Titanium or steel freehub body for DT hubs?
Moderator: robbosmans
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Nah, fookin. Always fookin.
Unless the workshop is open, and customers can see/hear............
I bought a decent chain whip (and cassette tool) as i'd prefer to fit the cassette properly, rather than restrict how well i build stuff as my tools are rubbish.
Also quite often get stuff thats been installed dry/soaked in salt water/abused/fitted by the hulk. So i need decent tools to crack it off.
Unless the workshop is open, and customers can see/hear............
I bought a decent chain whip (and cassette tool) as i'd prefer to fit the cassette properly, rather than restrict how well i build stuff as my tools are rubbish.
Also quite often get stuff thats been installed dry/soaked in salt water/abused/fitted by the hulk. So i need decent tools to crack it off.
Anyone tried the Decathlon tool as an alternative to a whip for getting cassettes RFT?
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip- ... 09913.html
Online stock seems to be hit & miss though.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip- ... 09913.html
Online stock seems to be hit & miss though.
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Mattr is right fookin.
How do I manage to undo my lockrings without trouble? I'm not a gorrilla you know. I just have arms and get on with it.
Breaker arm + 1" socket + park tool sr11 +park tool FR5 works for me. For those hubs where the lockring tool does not sit far enough in or is loose, I have a 150mm M4 bolt with washers and nuts on to clamp the thing in place. It's coming off. Also, the freehubs threads are cleaned ( use a good steel lockring as a cutting die if needed to clean them up) and their lockring is in good order before I fit. Salt corrosion has never been a problem here for me. If the threads are blunted replace the freehubs as it won't hold any torque well. If you screwed it in by hand your good to go.
How do I manage to undo my lockrings without trouble? I'm not a gorrilla you know. I just have arms and get on with it.
Breaker arm + 1" socket + park tool sr11 +park tool FR5 works for me. For those hubs where the lockring tool does not sit far enough in or is loose, I have a 150mm M4 bolt with washers and nuts on to clamp the thing in place. It's coming off. Also, the freehubs threads are cleaned ( use a good steel lockring as a cutting die if needed to clean them up) and their lockring is in good order before I fit. Salt corrosion has never been a problem here for me. If the threads are blunted replace the freehubs as it won't hold any torque well. If you screwed it in by hand your good to go.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Tue Aug 28, 2018 11:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
Getting them RFT is easy. You don't need the whip for that.Harpoon wrote: ↑Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:38 amAnyone tried the Decathlon tool as an alternative to a whip for getting cassettes RFT?
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip- ... 09913.html
Online stock seems to be hit & miss though.
Taking it off is the hard part.
Also heating up the freehub/hub should help if it's stubborn.
/a
Lockrings have a torque spec and yes, they are rarely tight enough with I service someone else's wheel.
Best news I’ve seen for a long time. This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. But are they available in EU as well?? The price is a bit steep when considering taxes and import duties at approx. 35 % on top....BdaGhisallo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 23, 2018 12:17 pmhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017E ... URIFRO399Y
DT Swiss steel cassette body - fits 180, 240 and 350 hubs.
Bike-Components have a freehub body which is claimed to be for Shimano Road 11 and made of steel but hard to verify whether it is the same since no item number is listed on Amazon. I sent a question to DT Swiss support inquiring about differences between the various available freehub bodies last week but haven't received any response yet…
https://www.bike-components.de/en/DT-Sw ... em-p54345/
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