Titanium or steel freehub body for DT hubs?
Moderator: robbosmans
Do you adjust your stem? Seatpost? You should have a torque wrench.
Worst case, drive by the bike shop or auto shop with your wheel and ask them to borrow one for this experiment.
To say that a design is faulty if a torque wrench is required would mean entire industries would be faulty. You didn't solve the problem, you masked it.
Worst case, drive by the bike shop or auto shop with your wheel and ask them to borrow one for this experiment.
To say that a design is faulty if a torque wrench is required would mean entire industries would be faulty. You didn't solve the problem, you masked it.
Most torque wrenches doesn't have a large enough range to cover both cassette lockrings and the much lower torque specs for stems, seatposts etc. Lots or even most avid home mechanics will have a torque wrench to cover the latter use case but seldom the former.
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That's why I also suggested stopping at a shop. To suggest that requiring a torque wrench is a sign of bad design is what I disagree with.
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buy two torque wrenches. I have four, two working, two backups. if you don't buy the required tools please don't blame the product.
I find this all the time. please are very quick to blame the product but on discussion with them I then find out they have not fitted the item correctly. Sadly it is a common trait to assume that ones fitting skills are with the gods and the product always has to be at fault.
I find this all the time. please are very quick to blame the product but on discussion with them I then find out they have not fitted the item correctly. Sadly it is a common trait to assume that ones fitting skills are with the gods and the product always has to be at fault.
As a home mechanic, you don't need a torque wrench really. Since this is ww I expect you to have a scale with a hook, and torque is force times distance, so with a ruler, wrench, some math, and your scale you can get a precise torque reading without having to buy a special tool. In fact your scale reading will be more accurate than a cheap torque wrench.
Hey, I was told there would be no math, which is why I own 1 CDI digital, 2 ratcheting/analog, 4 Snap-On clicker, and 1 beam style torque wrenches. Anyone want/need a lightly used Park TW-2 beam torque wrench which I use when I need to install threaded bottom brackets?
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
James May measures his torque in "grunts". Low, medium or deep grunt while tensioning bolts.
https://youtu.be/_3R4pstLlqE?t=8m30s
https://youtu.be/_3R4pstLlqE?t=8m30s
A few webshop indicate that freehub body is not compatible with centerlock/6-bolt hubs with straight-pull spokes (mine is a 350 centerlock with straight-pull spokes).
Did yours fit?
Mine is a regular hub for rimbrake. And the steel hub fits perfectly and works like a charm. I have no idea, how they will work on disc hubs.
Maybo look up the part number for the disc hub. If it's same as for rimbrake hub, then the steel version will probably fit.