Which Hubs Are The Fastest?
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- wheelsONfire
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Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
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Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
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Must be good hubs - precise made , steel
Everyone experience with these hubs?wheelsONfire wrote: ↑Sat Nov 25, 2017 6:32 pmWhat about Soul Kozak M-Netic hubs?
http://www.soul-kozak.com/en_US/n/4
Want to know about quality
Weight seems good with 190 and 74 gramms
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People seem to have answered the pertinent question, so, I'll ask..........why's it matter if not on a fixed track bike? You're either providing power, or if you're coasting you better be spun out. If there's something I'm missing, I'm open to learning something new.
To me, I like a hub with lots of engagement points. I do notice the difference between the nicer DT hub on my Giant's versus the 105 hub on the cyclocross bike. Engagement needs to be precise and instant. I like climbing out of saddle sometimes and really do notice it then, for some reason. Just me.
To me, I like a hub with lots of engagement points. I do notice the difference between the nicer DT hub on my Giant's versus the 105 hub on the cyclocross bike. Engagement needs to be precise and instant. I like climbing out of saddle sometimes and really do notice it then, for some reason. Just me.
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But more engagement points don't make you quicker. One of the forums favourite hubs has only 18, the DT Swiss 240 or 350 hubs. You can notice on these but still the 36t rings don't make you faster.
Because tooth size in a conventional pawl/ rachet or star ratchet mechanism gets smaller with more points of engagement unless the targets get bigger. Of course bigger ratchets mean larger ds flange and more weight. That's why the DT Swiss D's rear bearing is trapped behind the ring nut. If DT Swiss where to make the ratchets and ring nut bigger than the bearing weight would be added.
So the more teeth you add the faster the ratchet and pawls wear and the lower the max torque rating of the hub. An example is miche. The 30t ratchet 30t ratchet rings are on a 37mm thread. That gives a max torque rating of 330Nm. The Graff e bike hub had a bigger rachet ring and max torque is 550Nm.
Some hubs add more pawls to stop the ratchet teeth breaking. This increases drag though and noise.
Hense to have a 36t ratchet ring in the road hub I will put into production I have have to accept s few extra grams and larger ds flange than I initially anticipated.
There is no free lunch.
Because tooth size in a conventional pawl/ rachet or star ratchet mechanism gets smaller with more points of engagement unless the targets get bigger. Of course bigger ratchets mean larger ds flange and more weight. That's why the DT Swiss D's rear bearing is trapped behind the ring nut. If DT Swiss where to make the ratchets and ring nut bigger than the bearing weight would be added.
So the more teeth you add the faster the ratchet and pawls wear and the lower the max torque rating of the hub. An example is miche. The 30t ratchet 30t ratchet rings are on a 37mm thread. That gives a max torque rating of 330Nm. The Graff e bike hub had a bigger rachet ring and max torque is 550Nm.
Some hubs add more pawls to stop the ratchet teeth breaking. This increases drag though and noise.
Hense to have a 36t ratchet ring in the road hub I will put into production I have have to accept s few extra grams and larger ds flange than I initially anticipated.
There is no free lunch.
On power losses (bearing drag, seal drag), off power losses (add the free wheel mechanism losses in), also your "not pedalling" cases miss out quite a lot of cases where you might not want to be pedalling, BUT, those cases are usually when extra losses make no difference, and TBH, the losses from the hub are next to nothing anyway.burnthesheep wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 2:36 pmIf there's something I'm missing, I'm open to learning something new.
Off road, yes, it is nice to have and i do notice the difference between higher and lower numbers of engagement points, to a degree, beyond a certain point they are all good.
I'd be trying to work out why, on road, once you are travelling "on power" you shouldn't disengage from the freewheel (so shouldn't be able to tell 2 engagement points or 200) unless you've got some biomechanical or fit issue which means you repeatedly disengage and reengage. (I had it twice, once after a knee injury and once when running over long cranks as an experiment, 20 years ago).burnthesheep wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 2:36 pmI do notice the difference between the nicer DT hub on my Giant's versus the 105 hub on the cyclocross bike. Engagement needs to be precise and instant. I like climbing out of saddle sometimes and really do notice it then, for some reason. Just me.
I've also seen it with saddle heights (on other people)