Mavic Hub Service Information (for Pro Carbon series hubs)

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Regarding Mavics latest hubs in the Pro Carbon line with the Instant Drive 360 ratchet mechanism.

Can anyone direct me to a service guide or an exploded drawing?

Are they the same as DT hubs as far as service?

I had a weird experience where the ratchet did not engage for a moment allowing the crank to spin freely. I want to open it up and make sure it is properly lubed. Any tips before I go at it? And speaking of lube, DT Swiss special grease or something else? The free hub is insanely loud but I don't want to use an inappropriate lube just to quiet it down.

Mavics website has been no help.

TKS.
Last edited by Mr.Gib on Tue Oct 03, 2017 3:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

by Weenie


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whosatthewheel
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by whosatthewheel

Image

It looks very much like the DT swiss to me. The key with lubrication is to go easy on these... don't use a "toothpaste" like amount, just lightly cover the two ratchets. DT Swiss are fastidious about what grease to use, I have used a jar of Lucas oil bering grease for years and I never had problems or unusual wear. Basically any grease for moving parts will do the job very well.

Noise generally goes down a tad with fresh grease, but noise is not a problem... the more the better if you ask me

If the ratchet skips, it might be an issue with the spring (no. 10 in the diagram), rather than the ratchets themselves

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Thanks for that info.

One major difference I can see is that the Mavic is a one spring system whereas the DT Swiss uses two springs.

I went for it and took the hub apart. I couldn't get my hands on the end cap because it is recessed under the freehub so I just grabbed the freehub and gave it a yank. It slid right off the axle bringing the end cap with it. The only thing that really holds this hub together is the fact that it is clamped in the bike.

The internals were pristine as these wheels only see good weather. Perhaps the grease seemed a little dried out and thick. The original stuff is whitish and pretty firm. I wiped everything down and re-greased with a mixture of Phil's Waterproof cut with a few drops of Tri-flo. Put everything back in the order it came out, and the wheel seems fine. Much quieter and engagement seems perfect (although it seemed perfect before the maintenance...until it wasn't :evil: ). A fairly drama free process.

I am still a bit pissed about the original failure. I clipped in one foot, stood up on the pedal, clipped into the other pedal which was at the 12 o-clock position, dropped my weight on it....and nothing. Absolutely free spin to the bottom. I'm moving about a half km/h and the momentum of the free fall pedal rotation takes me over the bars and into a beautiful cartwheel/somersault ejection from the bike. I have had chains break in a full sprint and that you could save. No way to save this. It will be a long time until I trust this wheel again. For now on when I push off I will balance on the bars until I feel solid engagement. Shame, aside from this failure, these are really great wheels.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

A bit of an update.

Mavic was extremely responsive. Instant replies to my inquiries. They offered to take the wheel back to look at it. I informed them of my self service and based on my information they confirmed that the wheel should be fine. They are sending out a supply of their special grease for the wheel as well as a new noise damper rubber washer that nests inside one of the ratchet rings.

Nice to know that a prominent company like Mavic is really on top of things when we hear some of the service horror stories in the industry.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

andylav
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by andylav

Mr.Gib wrote:Thanks for that info.

I couldn't get my hands on the end cap because it is recessed under the freehub so I just grabbed the freehub and gave it a yank. It slid right off the axle bringing the end cap with it. The only thing that really holds this hub together is the fact that it is clamped in the bike.



Same thing happened to me but by accident, entire body came away from the hub when I tried to slide the protective wrapping off the body to fit a cassette to a new wheel - quite unnerving !

ScRuT
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by ScRuT

Mr.Gib wrote:
Tue Oct 03, 2017 3:15 am
I couldn't get my hands on the end cap because it is recessed under the freehub so I just grabbed the freehub and gave it a yank. It slid right off the axle bringing the end cap with it. The only thing that really holds this hub together is the fact that it is clamped in the bike.
I had the same experience. I've changed the bearings, cause they spinned very rough. Used this video to dismantle the hub.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6YeKm0A3JY

After reassembling and greasing all parts, I can pull the whole freehub (including the cassette) from the axle without any tool. So is this correct?

Thanx Sven

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

That seems correct.

Unfortunately that video is poor quality. So many damn small parts in this hub. Spacers, washers, seals, etc. I am not looking forward to replacing bearings.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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