I decided to build my own wheels. My current bike has a bombproof-but-heavy wheelset (DH-3N80 + A319 on the front and FH-5700 + A319 on the rear, both 36h and unbutted spokes).
This bike will see some light touring duty (less than 5kg on a saddle bag, plus 1 or 2 kg on a handlebar bag supported on a small rack), and hopefully some Brevets.
I'm 65kg with clothes on and ride whatever the weather (as a data point, people salt the roads in the winter here in Germany).
For hubs I have a 32h Dura Ace 7900 rear and an SP 28h SV-8 dynohub for the front.
I want the rims to be silver, so I'm thinking about a pair of Kinlin XR22T. Anything against them?
I'm still unsure about spokes and nipples. Some sources say Sapim Lasers are hard for beginners, so is it better to use Sapim Race?
I've seen some people adding spoke washers on the hub holes. Is this necessary?
Are alloy nipples a bad idea for a first time builder?
Right now I only have the hubs, so that's the only fixed part of the project (and the rims need to be silver for a more "classic" look, hubs are silver too).
I've trued wheels before, but never assembled the whole thing from scratch so I'm not sure about the rim/spokes/nipple choices.
My first wheelset. Looking for some final advice
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joejack951
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mariachi wrote:I want the rims to be silver, so I'm thinking about a pair of Kinlin XR22T. Anything against them?
No experience but they should be fine for your purpose.
mariachi wrote:I'm still unsure about spokes and nipples. Some sources say Sapim Lasers are hard for beginners, so is it better to use Sapim Race?
I wouldn't add weight to your wheels for the sake of an easier build. And Race spokes will wind up, too, if you don't pay attention just less so than Lasers (or the DT equivalents of either). For thin section spokes, I've taken to using a contrasting color permanent marker to put a reference line on the spoke that I can watch as I tension the wheel. Other people use flags made of tape. Both works, I just find the marker easier. It comes off easily with acetone.
mariachi wrote:I've seen some people adding spoke washers on the hub holes. Is this necessary?
At your weight, I wouldn't worry about it. Back when I commuted a lot, I built a wheelset using 390 gram aluminum rims (IRD Cadence), DT Revolution spokes (DT Comps on the DS rear), and aluminum nipples. I was ~73kg then and typically carried 5kg with me, but up to 15kg. Never had an issue with those wheels in over 20,000 miles other than breaking a front hub on a pothole in the rain.
mariachi wrote:Are alloy nipples a bad idea for a first time builder?
Use grease or anti-seize and a quality spoke key and you'll be fine.
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With that spoke count and your low weight I'd say that as long as the wheel is brought up to proper tension and the spokes are of the correct length for it's nipples, then it doesn't really matter what spokes you use. The wheels will be stable enough for you.
I do suggest for simplicity that you get a bladed spoke because these are the easiest to true the wheel. Round spokes usually just get wound up and can't be dialed in properly.
Note that if you plan to use alloy nipples (which are fine) then it's absolutely crucial that the threads of the spoke go all the way into the wider part of the nipple inside the rim. They otherwise break after 6-12 months from fatigue.
A wheelbuilder has all necessary spoke lengths available but as a home tinkerer it's difficult to order the right spoke lengths. They are ordered down to the exact millimeter. You might think that a bit too long ones could be the safest bet but the threads on the spokes aren't that long. They could need to be shortened and rethreaded which requires a special tool. (On my wheels 20/24h the spoke lengths are 244/246/251mm. Longest on rear drive side. I first ordered too short spokes 241/244/246mm but to correct the mistake I only had to order 12pcs 251mm spokes + 8pcs 246mm and move the other spokes around. No big deal, but I had to spend a lot of time failsearching and waiting for orders to arrive.)
The spokes with highest tension are the rear 16 drive side ones. These are the first ones to give you trouble if something is not right.
I say a good build can be made with patience.
/a
I do suggest for simplicity that you get a bladed spoke because these are the easiest to true the wheel. Round spokes usually just get wound up and can't be dialed in properly.
Note that if you plan to use alloy nipples (which are fine) then it's absolutely crucial that the threads of the spoke go all the way into the wider part of the nipple inside the rim. They otherwise break after 6-12 months from fatigue.
A wheelbuilder has all necessary spoke lengths available but as a home tinkerer it's difficult to order the right spoke lengths. They are ordered down to the exact millimeter. You might think that a bit too long ones could be the safest bet but the threads on the spokes aren't that long. They could need to be shortened and rethreaded which requires a special tool. (On my wheels 20/24h the spoke lengths are 244/246/251mm. Longest on rear drive side. I first ordered too short spokes 241/244/246mm but to correct the mistake I only had to order 12pcs 251mm spokes + 8pcs 246mm and move the other spokes around. No big deal, but I had to spend a lot of time failsearching and waiting for orders to arrive.)
The spokes with highest tension are the rear 16 drive side ones. These are the first ones to give you trouble if something is not right.
I say a good build can be made with patience.
/a
