Tubeless with non-tubeless tires? Anyone tried it? How did it go?

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
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ms6073
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by ms6073

Even if one got the initial setup to work, Given how much bead 'stretch' I observed over the years using high performance clinchers from Veloflex and Vittoria, I would not be very confident in that as a long term solution. Having seen how easily a brand new, non-tubeless clincher tire can blow off without riding a single minute riding on the road, I for one will continue to use only tubeless tires with tubeless compatible rims.
Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

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WinterRider
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by WinterRider

ms6073 wrote: tubeless tires with tubeless compatible rims.


Good point being overlooked. First thing I did contemplating using the Kinlin 200 (not specified made for tubeless) was measure the inside wall depth below the hook for the bead. I found it within spec barely so proceeded... with the tubeless Schwalbe Pro One.

sussexhills
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by sussexhills

I do this with my cx bike and run non-TLR Panaracer Gravel Kings 32c tubeless but the pressures are lower at 70psi max.

The other way round I tried to convert a set of Zipp 303/404 firecrest carbon clinchers to tubeless according to instructions on the interweb but the tyres were a loose fit and as soon as I had my first pucture after about 500 miles the tyre rapidly deflated and I almost wrote of the wheel coming to a rapid stop on a descent as the tyre was about to roll off. If it feels like a tight fit it may be worth trying but if you can ease on by hand don't bother.

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WinterRider
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by WinterRider

Well I did prevail vs my stubborn Kinlin 200 (not tubeless) rim and the S1 tube-lass. My issue was leaking at the valve stem .. I ran a lite bead of silicone bath tub sealant around the stem region which meets rim edge .. cured a couple days mounted on rim.I had drilled the valve hole out barely to square up the edge. ONE layer of Stan's narrow tape -- which was my main issue per difficulty mounting first trials. I had increased inside dia to the point where getting the thing on was nigh impossible. S1 went on this morn --after being run w tube in another rim .. quite well. Used the Kool Stop lever.. dismount and mount to new rim a breeze. Filled sans sealant .. held fine and added about an ounce of orange seal. Guestimating that amount per level in reused Stan's container 2 oz size.

Now to wear them out... :thumbup:

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ergott
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by ergott

One layer of Stan's?

You need 2 layers for road tire pressures. You can really only get away with 1 layer if you are setting up mtb wheels.

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WinterRider
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by WinterRider

ergott wrote:One layer of Stan's?

You need 2 layers for road tire pressures. You can really only get away with 1 layer if you are setting up mtb wheels.


Read it both ways 1 & 2.. trying 1 given I run pressures lower than most road. Did 40 mi today after this initial rear install.. front I'll guess low 50's (have not added to it since initial mount at low 60's say 2 weeks ago) and rear low 70's. 1 layer means ease of mounting on 200's. Watching them closely. S1's rolled very nice.. does even out the impacts I can feel too.

Thanks for the heads up.

shimmeD
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by shimmeD

Is rim tape used solely for covering up spoke holes? If so why are differing widths recommended, if say 19mm is all that is required to cover the spoke holes?
Less is more.

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Orlok
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by Orlok

shimmeD wrote:Is rim tape used solely for covering up spoke holes? If so why are differing widths recommended, if say 19mm is all that is required to cover the spoke holes?
Good question.! Because I cover the rim always from hook to hook, so I need different widths. The tire will be beter air closed.! :wink:
Once comes a time that you'll have a tailwind :D
Pinarello F10 - Ultegra 6800 - Carbonspeed C38 - Tubeless

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Don't do it.
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ergott
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by ergott

If the tape is narrower than the width between the two walls it can drift, especially after repeat install and removing of tires.

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WinterRider
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by WinterRider

shimmeD wrote:Is rim tape used solely for covering up spoke holes? If so why are differing widths recommended, if say 19mm is all that is required to cover the spoke holes?


Main determining factor .. is internal width .. then ideally I think all the material on each side on holes to sorta 'seal the deal'... ie: x-width of tape is more secure I would think us x-width minus any extra distance from tape edge to rim wall edge.

Did one 'speriment where the tape wasn't adhered well enough .. sealant migrated under tape and couldn't get seal. Get them greaseless clean and all the width possible. I'm flying w less in one setup... lack of right tape at time... time'll tell.

IF... not using tubeless rims ... finished internal ERD of rim can be critical to tire fit ... ie: my learning curve struggles w Pro One Tubeless.

IMO.. if possible.. go Schrader right off... Presta only means likely issues later one .. core stems bending et al.

Marin
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by Marin

I alway imagine WinterRider sitting on a porch, sporting a huge unkempt beard and speaking... slowly... thoughtfully... as if to himself.

shimmeD
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by shimmeD

Thanks for all your thoughts.
I'll just have a go to see how 19mm wide tape tango with 19mm wide internal rim, making sure of good adhesion to (clean) rim. I can tape edge to edge if the tape is wide enough to have 2 (over-lapping) layers over the spoke holes.
Less is more.

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WinterRider
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by WinterRider

Marin wrote:I alway imagine WinterRider sitting on a porch, sporting a huge unkempt beard and speaking... slowly... thoughtfully... as if to himself.


No beard.. like you... LOL. And sans your medications too... :thumbup:

And... :roll: if that actually was the case.. at least to someone intelligent.

Marin
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by Marin

Hey, I have a beard!

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