Help with setting up roval CLX 50 Tubeless

[jlok]

the plugs are bad... wasted two CO2 cartriges...

used the Stan's yellow tape instead, worked like charm and used Lezyne track pump to seat the Pro One tubeless 25mm.

Schwalbe's tubeless tape would be even easier to wrap the rims.

[fporter]

I would've used the plugs if i could've gotten the tire inflated but 3 different inflation methods failed.

The Pro ONE tires did go on easy enough with either the tape or the plugs.

Prior to adding sealant, when I set up with the tape, I did install a tube, inflated it and let it sit for a day to really press the tape down. Cleaned the carbon with alcohol first as well.

[Scott2017]

https://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/reviews/ ... dqA1wxJ.97

In this review, it says the rims come with tubeless tape installed and tubeless valves. Did anyone else's wheels come with this tape on them? And have you tried running them tubeless with it?

[Delorre]

https://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/reviews/components/cycle-wheels/roval-clx-50-wheelset-review.html#U2u4MjAJYdqA1wxJ.97

In this review, it says the rims come with tubeless tape installed and tubeless valves. Did anyone else's wheels come with this tape on them? And have you tried running them tubeless with it?

My CLX 32's came with similar tape. Ditched it (weight was almost 25gr/wheel if I remember correctly) and replaced it by blue Shwalbe tubeless tape that weight a little more than 5gr /wheel. Never used that wheelset tubeless, so sorry, no feedback on that...

[fporter]

When I did the tubeless setup I replaced those strips w/ two wraps of tubeless tape. I found the width of the roval valves made inflation difficult. The wide valve kept the bead from dropping uniformly into the channel. I ended up using a valve w/ a narrower, conical rubber head.

When tubeless the tire beads won't stay on the shelf if deflated, they drop down into the channel. Bit of let down for sure. But riding tubeless feels really nice and the tires sing nicely w/o the damping of the inner tube.

I'm running Pro ONEs, a 23 in the front and 25 in the rear. The 23 inflates to 27mm wide and the 25 inflates to 29.5.

[Scott2017]

What's the width of the tubeless tape you're both using?

[fporter]

I used 25mm wide tape.

[trikobe]

So if the beads fall back down into the center when deflated, how does one add sealant into the valve (core removed) without it becoming a mess upon inflation?

Anyone have concerns about the bead rolling off on corners or flats using TL tires?

[Orlok]

So if the beads fall back down into the center when deflated, how does one add sealant into the valve (core removed) without it becoming a mess upon inflation?

Anyone have concerns about the bead rolling off on corners or flats using TL tires?

If you put the sealant into the valve while this is at 6h and you put not more then 30ml into the tire it will not be a mess upon inflation.

[Scott2017]

Flats are supposed to be both less likely with tubeless and less dangerous should they occur, as is my understanding.

Been running tubeless on this set for many months, 25 and 28mm. No flats, punctures, bead roll offs, or even significant loss of air pressure when riding or just leaving the bike in the corner for a couple weeks--been hitting some pretty hard curbs and potholes as well along the way, no burping or other similar issues.

Lower pressure options from tubeless should also provide more grip in corners; I am flying down hills now.

[IrrelevantD]

So if the beads fall back down into the center when deflated, how does one add sealant into the valve (core removed) without it becoming a mess upon inflation?

Anyone have concerns about the bead rolling off on corners or flats using TL tires?

I've been running tubeless for about 10 years on the road. On most of the rims I've used, if you get them up to full pressure the bead should lock onto the ledge pretty well and allow you to deflate the tire, add sealant, and re-inflate without it falling back into the channel. If it does, it should still be tight enough to re-inflate with a regular pump. One word of advice, invest in a compressor or a pump with a tank built in for inflating tubeless tires, don't use CO2 with sealant in the tires unless absolutely nessicary as it gets cold enough to flash the selant to a hardened state.

Regarding cornering and the bead rolling off in corners... in general that's not going to be a problem unless they are flat enough that you are bottoming out on the rim. I've ridden 23/25c tires as low as 40-50psi (I'm 200+ lbs) without the bead comming off. They're squirmy as hell, but the bead will hold. That being said, if you let them go completely flat, the bead will roll into the channel and you're most likely calling for a ride or riding on the rim. I've done both, which is why I cary a pump and if I get a puncture that won't seal, I just ride till it gets squrmy, then air it back up every few miles.

[trikobe]

I am considering these wheels (disc version) but the only reason i ask is because my concern for the lack of a bead lock designed into the rim. Even James Huang from cycling tips indicate every tire he has used on these rims when deflated, the tire bead would fall back into the center of the rim. In the event of a flat on a downhill section, are there concerns the tire, by not being locked into the rim, could lead to an unsafe situation? I am running tubeless on an easton ec90sl rim brake carbon clincher that has a bead lock and it gives me a little piece of mind. The slight mess with the sealant i can deal with on the clx50 so long as the wheel, when run tubeless, doesnt pose any safety concerns.

[fporter]

In the event of a flat on a downhill section, are there concerns the tire, by not being locked into the rim, could lead to an unsafe situation?

IMHO, a flat on a downhill section (at speed i'm assuming) would be unsafe under any circumstances, tubeless with beadshelf, tubeless without or clinchers with tubes.

[TobinHatesYou]

In the event of a flat on a downhill section, are there concerns the tire, by not being locked into the rim, could lead to an unsafe situation?

IMHO, a flat on a downhill section (at speed i'm assuming) would be unsafe under any circumstances, tubeless with beadshelf, tubeless without or clinchers with tubes.

I got a quick flat on a straight 11-12% grade descent due to a tire sidewall/bead defect. The tire had maybe 20psi within seconds, but there was never a moment of panic. I just slowed down over a slightly longer distance than I normally would have. The bead was never in danger of unseating itself even on hookless rims. The bead-lock on the rim bed is what keeps the bead in place.

[trikobe]

Thats reassuring to know. Thanks!