Help with setting up roval CLX 50 Tubeless

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Orlok
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by Orlok

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Sat May 19, 2018 5:07 am
fporter wrote:
Thu May 17, 2018 9:27 pm
trikobe wrote:
Thu May 17, 2018 8:21 pm
In the event of a flat on a downhill section, are there concerns the tire, by not being locked into the rim, could lead to an unsafe situation?
IMHO, a flat on a downhill section (at speed i'm assuming) would be unsafe under any circumstances, tubeless with beadshelf, tubeless without or clinchers with tubes.

I got a quick flat on a straight 11-12% grade descent due to a tire sidewall/bead defect. The tire had maybe 20psi within seconds, but there was never a moment of panic. I just slowed down over a slightly longer distance than I normally would have. The bead was never in danger of unseating itself even on hookless rims. The bead-lock on the rim bed is what keeps the bead in place.
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alexmcm09
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by alexmcm09

I have a set of Roval CL 50s which have an identical rim as the CLX50. They have the tubeless ready tape pre-installed, but if I don't plan on running tubeless am I able to remove this tape? Is there any downside to doing so?

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fporter
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by fporter

alexmcm09 wrote:
Mon May 21, 2018 1:00 pm
I have a set of Roval CL 50s which have an identical rim as the CLX50. They have the tubeless ready tape pre-installed, but if I don't plan on running tubeless am I able to remove this tape? Is there any downside to doing so?
Is it actually tubeless tape with adhesive or a Specialized brown '2bliss' rim strip?
If it is actually tape, make sure there are two wraps of it as that's what Stans etc. recommend for road tire pressures and it should work fine with tubes (it has to in the event the tubeless setup fails out on the road--unsealed flat or some such-- and you have to revert to tubes.).
The tape is usually lighter than the rim strips.

extremejetfighter
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by extremejetfighter

I got the CLX 50s a month ago which came with tape and tubeless valves installed. I didn't install the plugs or change the tape. I installed tires with orange seal and have ridden 1000km without any problem (schwalbe pro one, 25c). The impression I got from skimming the documentation, before seeing this thread, was that the plugs could be used instead of tape--both aren't required.

jlok
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by jlok

Mine CLX50 came with normal rim tape and the plugs uninstalled.

The plugs are sh1t and I used Stan's yellow tape instead.
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cheesey
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Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2019 5:48 pm

by cheesey

Hello, read the thread with interest, as I have bought these wheels with Schwalbe Pro 1 tyres, but I cannot get the tyre to seal. My CLX50 came with the rim sealed (no plugs) and with a valve. I bought a Specialized Blaster to help (basically an air reservoir you pump up to 140psi, then let go into the tyre..... I don't have access to a compressor/large cylinder like @rasto. The issue seems to be that the valve causes the tyre issues, such that air is coming out faster than even the blaster dumps in, and the bead never seats (even with the Schwalbe mounting lube). What have others done to get this combination to work?

It seems to me that the diameter and domed shape of the OEM valve, stops the tyre from resting correctly. Did you stick with the original valves or switch to others? If so which? Did you find alternative 60/70mm valves, or use an extender?

Thanks for any help. Jon

fporter
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:58 pm

by fporter

See page 2.
I had the same experience that the width of the OE valve allowed air to escape cause the tire bead was prevented from dropping into the channel by the valve head.

So instead i used a more typical tubeless valve with the conical rubber head which is narrower and inflation was easier.

IMHO Specialized should stop claiming tubeless compatibility and owes owners of CLX/CL rims an appology for the tubeless design of the rim (there's no effective bead shelf for the tire bead to lock onto) and the plugs and valve parts which just make tubeless setup unnecessarily difficult. I like everything about the wheelset except the tubeless aspects.

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adamglow
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by adamglow

Hi There,
I have Roval CL50 wheels.
I would like to run them with Continental's gp5000 tubeless tyres.
Which valves are you using?
How long are they (are you using extenders)?

Would all of the below work?

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Silca/ ... hield/DRZ7

https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/specialize ... PMQAvD_BwE

https://www.merlincycles.com/muc-off-tu ... source=PHG

https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/giant_tube ... m=[keyword]

Best wishes,
Adam

spdntrxi
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by spdntrxi

Roval CL's are a hookless design.. someone posted a picture of a Gp5000 in another thread and the tire read something to the effect of do not use on hookless rims... so I'd say use at your own risk.
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adamglow
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by adamglow

I have Allez Sprint (frame is like a block of concrete;)). If not gp5000 tubeless, which tyres would be the best with rovals cl50?...and which valve setup


Thank you for your help.
Best wishes,
Adam

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by spdntrxi

Turbo cotton 26c or 28c
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adamglow
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by adamglow

I want to go tubeless to have lower pressure in the tyres and improved puncture resistance.

(I have turbo cotton 24 now they are not tubeless)

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adamglow
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by adamglow

spdntrxi wrote:
Thu Jan 31, 2019 1:55 am
Roval CL's are a hookless design.. someone posted a picture of a Gp5000 in another thread and the tire read something to the effect of do not use on hookless rims... so I'd say use at your own risk.
I'm beginner in this mater.
Are you sure roval cl 50 are hookless?
20190131_225114.jpg
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fporter
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:58 pm

by fporter

Adamglow,
Are your wheels rim brake? I read the bit above about CL50 being hookless... i know my rim brake CL50 and CLX32 wheels are hooked. so i went googling.. the disc versions may be hookless but not sure.

In any case, yours pictures show a hooked bead. The GP5000 TL would work, the tubeless version. bicyclerollingresistance tested the GP5000 and the tubeless (TL) version is faster than non-TL. I'm looking forward to getting a set after my ProOne tires wear out.

Per your other questions... get some more typical tubeless valves like these https://www.coloradocyclist.com/colorad ... NWEALw_wcB
(the correct length for your CL50 rim depth of course) because the conical valve head head is narrower than the Specialized valve head. This will allow the tire beads to drop into the channel better. Also use two wraps of 25mm rim tape, stans, good guys, silka, etc. Two wraps is necessary for road tire pressure (one wrap for mtb pressures). Stretch the tape as you wrap the wheel so there are no wrinkles. There are probably youtube videos about this. The Specialized spoke hole plugs are bogus too.

The ProOne tires were still somewhat frustrating to inflate. Maybe the GP5000 will be easier if they have a nice bead. If not getting enough air in fast enough, remove the valve core and use an air compressor. I did that with the ProOne. Once the bead seats then quickly pop the valve core back in.

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spdntrxi
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Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:11 pm

by spdntrxi

adamglow wrote:
Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:59 pm
spdntrxi wrote:
Thu Jan 31, 2019 1:55 am
Roval CL's are a hookless design.. someone posted a picture of a Gp5000 in another thread and the tire read something to the effect of do not use on hookless rims... so I'd say use at your own risk.
I'm beginner in this mater.
Are you sure roval cl 50 are hookless?20190131_225114.jpg20190131_225022.jpg20190131_224835.jpg20190131_224454.jpg20190131_225222.jpg
https://road.cc/content/review/226956-r ... isc-wheels
https://www.roadbikereview.com/reviews/ ... ide-review


I guess they could be wrong..? The rims on CL50 vs CLX50 are identical if you are wondering.
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