Weight Weenies

OK.. I searched the forum, tried all the suggestions of cleaning the bed of the rims, but nothing has really worked...

After a 3rd set of tires on my Bora Ultras, its time to get the old glue out of there as there is some build up and bits of basetape in places...

Ive tried Acetone.. doesn't work worth ####
LePage Contact Cement thinner/cleaner.. seems to be somewhat working but literally takes 10 minutes per in between spoke section to get it clean.. and thicker spots take longer...
Goo Gone.. same as Acetone it seems although citrus(y) and probably not as harmful works a little I guess.. not like I thought it would...

All the above really seem to be doing is making more of a sticky mess rather than actually removing it...

Does Goof Off actually do anything... or am I just going to have to keep grinding at 10 minutes per rim section... thats gonna take 2 hour per wheel!!!

sounds like you need to line up some tasty jams, and cold beer.

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I use degreaser and a scotch pad...just be patient. Seems like yours have been coated with thicker layers of glue...goo gone is like a citrus degreaser. Will also work. I suggest you let the degreaser sit on the rims for a few minutes then scrub off with a scotch pad or with some sort of a blade.

The STARNUT method:

Red Devil Paint Stripper (gel type). Cover decals with blue painters tape... wear gloves and a mask... use a small paint brush to apply. Be careful to put the stripped only on the glue/rim-bed. Let sit 20 min, and then use a plastic scraper, rags to wipe all the loose good off. Do it right and it takes :30 mins for a clean rim. Spin the wheel hard in the stand to get off any stripper down in the spoke holes and you're done. Used a rag soaked in acetone to get off the last residue.

Don't use Goo-Gone...it's too mild to work for the tire bed. It works wonders however for removing stray glue off the rim sidewalls (as effective as acetone in that regard without the nasty smell). For rim bed you have to use Goof-Off or similar latex paint remover. It takes a while but it works. Do wear mask and gloves and have god ventilation though , as that stuff is nasty.If they were alloy rims, using a wire brush wheel attached to a drill, as somebody else suggested here a while ago, works wonders.

Although I'll definitely give the Starnut technique a try in the future.

When using Acetone (I use lacquer thinner which acts similar) apply liberly with a soaked rag all the way around, let it sit for a bit while you sip a brew, then apply some more again, and then a third time. This gives it time to start working on the glue before you attempt to scrub things off. I simply use clean cotton cloths (don't use paper towels) that absord the mush and allow a little scrubbing to take place........and wear some nitrile gloves to keep the sticky mess off your hands.

After this first round do it again, The second go-round I lay down 2 layers (versus 3 ) of thinner before hitting it with the rags.

Just remember you don't have to get it "new rim clean" - just getting the largest accumulations off.......... I figure it's about 30 minutes a rim - but about half that time is waiting for the lacquer thinner to work the glue so I'm off sipping on my Fosters oil can at that time.........

I have had good results using a rotating spyral nylon flap brush power drill attachment designed for removing paint from a homes exterior surfaces. I came upon this attachment while trying to clean off the muck and base tape that was left after experimenting with Tufo tubular tape a couple years back. While it does not completely remove glue residue, when used with a cordless drill (19.2 volt or 24 volt), the rotating brush does a pretty good job of thinning the old glue within 5-10 minutes per wheel. The down side to this technique is that the bristles heat the glue which then transfers the glue to the flap brush which tends to reduce the effectiveness. Here is a link to what I am talking about: http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(d3cnkb3owzjvgw4502qxecvd)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=23988

Finish line citrus degreaser (the full strength orange stuff) works well even on carbon rims.

Brake pad cleaner from a motor car parts store softens glue quickly so it will peal of with a knife. You have to go inch by inch but you get a clean finish. Not sure about carbon rims though.

Rich_W wrote:The STARNUT method:

Red Devil Paint Stripper (gel type). Cover decals with blue painters tape... wear gloves and a mask... use a small paint brush to apply. Be careful to put the stripped only on the glue/rim-bed. Let sit 20 min, and then use a plastic scraper, rags to wipe all the loose good off. Do it right and it takes :30 mins for a clean rim. Spin the wheel hard in the stand to get off any stripper down in the spoke holes and you're done. Used a rag soaked in acetone to get off the last residue.

Not sure what the chemicals are in Red Devil Paint Stripper, but if it's common dichloromethane like normal DIY paint stripper for cars, houses etc, this can weaken the Epoxy resin in a carbon rim. I'm not saying it can't be used, but be aware that dichloromethane is used to dissolve Epoxy resins (what is holding your carbon fibre rim together) in the industry. They are therefore not the best of friends!

Thanks for all the replys.... I'll see if I can find some goof off...
I called some stores today and I got everything from:

Lacquer thinner, Lighter fluid, Don't use anything pick it off, and the best was.. we don't use glue, we use tape... no thanks!

Ill try get some Goof Off tomorrow..

i use wd-40 and my dremmel. I spray wd-40 onto the rim then i use one of the soft polishing bits( q-tip material like) on the dremmel and start away. it took me about 30min for a disc.

I can't even imagine being a pro tour mechanic and having to deal with so many wheels. Sure they get new ones regularly, but those guys change their tires very frequently. I read somewhere about the use of the end of a butter knife that fit well with the contour of the rim. I don't know if they used something like acetone in conjunction with the knife of just peeled off any of the chunks with the knife, but it was interesting. I don't know if most everyone is now using a contact cement like Vittoria Mastik or Continental glue to hold their tires on, but I wonder how the chemical of choice would be different if someone were sitting on a stash of Clement's old red glue. You didn't need the layers if I remember correctly, but I don't know if it would be different to take off. Or track style lacquer for that matter.

Well I gave up on it... the front wheel is half clean down to carbon... so I will just apply a layer of glue to the bare spots to build up.. then apply the one coat over the old glue and mount... luckily the rear tire peeled off nicely and left no residue or large clumps behind.. just a nice even coating of dried glue.. one coat to even things out, one on the tire and off we go!! Looking forward to those Veloflex Carbons after riding Conti Comps...

I was always careful with alu tubular rims and not having much experience with carbon tubulars, I was a bit delicate with them too so took them to a mate.

Gave a rear disc to the mate who is very experienced with wheels, and he threw it in the truing stand and attacked it with a butter knife.

Just get the big chunks off and a smoother surface.

He is very careful with anything and wont let you place a new glued track tyre anywhere on the ground, it has to go straight in a bag etc, as the workshop might have a tiny small off cut of cable and the light tyres have zero puncture protection, he's been at it for over 20 years.

So I'd trust using a knife.

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