But you wouldn't meet with me? Too much pressure I assume...fdegrove wrote:Hi,
Veloflex used to apply of coat of latex to the top tyres such as their Record and Servizio Corse but I don't see that any longer.
Back then the advise was to scrape it off.
I think that the more recent issue are no longer coated with latex but some kind of fungicide emulsion.
No idea what everyone else does but I just leave it as is.
The trick was to use Terokal 244 on the base tape instead of the regular rim cement. Since Terokal has higher adherence the rim cement didn't tear the latex layer off when the tub was removed.if you are in brussels a chimay next time i'm there?
I'll make sure I'll be there then.
Long time lurker!
Just wanted to say thanks for a great thread. I'm just looking at getting my first set of tubular rims and this thread has helped a lot.
I just need to work my way through the slightly long thread about glueing!
So, in summary, it seems that before I get my wheels I buy at least 2 tyres (was thinking Veloflex carbons) or maybe another 1 or 2 as spares and have them stretching/ageing.
I also need a lighter tub (Tufo?) to take out with me and then I spend a couple of days applying glue before I'm good to go!!
It's at this point I'm trying to tell myself to stick with it
I think I've read that your spare you carry in case of a flat might be a lesser tub than normal and it's like a get you home solution. If you're 10 miles into an 80 mile ride, do you go home or take it easy for the rest of the ride?
I'm sure all will be fine. Just need to decide what wheels I want!!
Personally, I just use an old tubular that has a worn-out tread as a spare. If you are new to the 'game', you might not have that option. Any tubular will do as a spare, but the Tufos are really light and inexpensive. A Vittoria Rally might be a good choice, too.
For me, tubulars don't flat very often. That is likely due to road conditions and riding habits, but tubulars are highly resistant to pinch-flats, which is a major cause of clincher flats out here (or probably anywhere in the northern hemisphere where road condition and winter don't mix well). In the instances where I have had flats, my intention was always to complete my rides. In each circumstance (just two) the ride got cut-short by another puncture! By the time I got to home-base and replaced the flat, I am convinced that the tire had adhered well enough to ride on. I would still recommend riding gently, though.
With respect to your component choices, all looks good there. What wheels are you considering running?
Well, I do have a budget. The wheels I would love just can't be justified for my club runs
Looking at the handbuilt route and we have a guy here in Scotland, Wheelsmith, and his common build is a Gigantex rim, 38 or 50mm, on either a Chris King R45 or DT Swiss 240 hub.
Haven't had prices or anything yet but from reading posts, it appears the R45 are pretty expensive while the DT lighter/similar but cheaper?
That would seem to be my choices but I don't want to pick one just for the sake of it.
My current wheels are Mavic Elites so I'm guessing these would be better
Thanks very much
Tube is Butyl and case is cotton. Silk and Latex are different. Light soap on a wash cloth is usually fine. I wouldn't have them fully inflated when cleaning. These are black when new and not sure if Latex is used or other rubber. I don't think you would hurt them (Cotton/Butyl) with tyre black. I would tend not to add latex for these.Anth73 wrote:So far my transition to tubulars has gone well. However I've noticed the sidewalks on my Vittoria Corsa Elites have turned a greyish colour. Is it safe to use tyre black like you use on car tyres or is there a specific product I should use? Liquid latex has been mentioned previously but mostly in te contex of keeping gumwall's clean.
I have a Tufo S3 Lite as a spare that is stretching as well. This tire was very difficult to get mounted. I ended up standing on it and pulling, then turning the tire and repeating. This finally allowed me to get the tire on the stretching rim. I admit I felt like a barbarian while doing this. Is there a better way?
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I still remember 'Old' George teaching me how to do a stirrup-stretch when I was 12 or 13 years old, or so. We raced and trained on Czech-made Barum tires (incidentally, now Tufo). I was suprised to see the amount of force he applied, resulting in a series of loud, 'snapping' sounds as the basetape threads separated. The tires went on much easier, and I never had a problem mounting the tire using his technique. Also, I never had a problem with tires adhereing or flats as a result.
Today, a lot of manufactures specifically warn against using a stirrup-stretch on their tires to avoid damaging them. Today, almost everybody recommends stretching tires by leaving them on s rim (which doesn't help getting them on a rim in the first place, which can actually be harder than getting them on a rim having glue on already, due to slippage). Though I don't advise that you do it yourself, lest you damage a tire, I have been known, on occasion, to revert to my old ways for a difficult tire (Dugast seta 27's, for instance)
Anyway, once a tire is nicely stretched-out (however you get there) you should not have any problem mounting it.
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