Making the transition to tubulars
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I just glued up my first pair of tubs last night. I got a good deal on some Oval Concepts 32mm deep wheels. I used Vittoria Corsa Slicks 23mm wide.
Over time I have read this whole thread, trying to learn how to mount tubs when the time came. Overall the mounting experience was messier than I thought it would be, but I’m sure that will get better as I improve my technique.
One issue I had was after I put the final layer of glue on the tires, and then mounted them. The glue tacked up right away (Vittoria Mastik). Like by the time I got around the tire spreading it on, the other side was very tacky. It made it more difficult to move the tire from side to side on the rim. I had to pick up the tire to move it. I wish there was a way to get it wet enough so it would slide from side to side.
Probably the warm temps and high humidity of Florida was not helping my glue situation.
After putting some air pressure in them, I was surprised how nice and centered they are. I’m waiting until tomorrow night for the first ride.
I’ve been running GP4000 clinchers with latex tubes, and I wanted to see what all the tubular fuss was about. I don’t really get punctures with clinchers, so hopefully the same is true for tubulars.
Over time I have read this whole thread, trying to learn how to mount tubs when the time came. Overall the mounting experience was messier than I thought it would be, but I’m sure that will get better as I improve my technique.
One issue I had was after I put the final layer of glue on the tires, and then mounted them. The glue tacked up right away (Vittoria Mastik). Like by the time I got around the tire spreading it on, the other side was very tacky. It made it more difficult to move the tire from side to side on the rim. I had to pick up the tire to move it. I wish there was a way to get it wet enough so it would slide from side to side.
Probably the warm temps and high humidity of Florida was not helping my glue situation.
After putting some air pressure in them, I was surprised how nice and centered they are. I’m waiting until tomorrow night for the first ride.
I’ve been running GP4000 clinchers with latex tubes, and I wanted to see what all the tubular fuss was about. I don’t really get punctures with clinchers, so hopefully the same is true for tubulars.
2010 Orbea Opal 54cm
5.97kg
5.97kg
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It was pretty simple. It really helps having the two giant tubular threads here on WW to guide me. Plus some YouTube videos showing guys mounting tubs.
The ride quality of the Vittoria tubs is great. I do want to try some Veloflex when these wear out, but I’m happy for the time being.
The 700/23 tubs are just over 22mm wide actual on my 20.5mm wide rims. Slightly smaller than my GP4k clinchers (700/20 and 700/23 that measured 23mm and 26mm actual). I notice that the tubs seem to soak up small bumps better than the clinchers.
I did bump up the pressure slightly from my clinchers. I was running 100psi front and back with them. I am running 110psi with the tubs now. I’m 85kg, and don’t want to risk a pinch flat, or damage a rim from it bottoming out.
I think when I try some Veloflex I’ll get a Carbon for the front and Arenberg for the rear.
The ride quality of the Vittoria tubs is great. I do want to try some Veloflex when these wear out, but I’m happy for the time being.
The 700/23 tubs are just over 22mm wide actual on my 20.5mm wide rims. Slightly smaller than my GP4k clinchers (700/20 and 700/23 that measured 23mm and 26mm actual). I notice that the tubs seem to soak up small bumps better than the clinchers.
I did bump up the pressure slightly from my clinchers. I was running 100psi front and back with them. I am running 110psi with the tubs now. I’m 85kg, and don’t want to risk a pinch flat, or damage a rim from it bottoming out.
I think when I try some Veloflex I’ll get a Carbon for the front and Arenberg for the rear.
2010 Orbea Opal 54cm
5.97kg
5.97kg
Good job. Unless you are running some super-deep rimbed wheels like the Hed Stingers, even a big guy like you will have very little risk of a pinch flat on tubulars. One of the great benefits of tubulars vs. clinchers is that you can very reliably run way less pressure with no risk of pinch-flatting. The only reason I run higher pressures (same as you, but I am 59kg) is that I just like the feel of them better that way (yes, I know it is faster at 90psi).
Quick question.. I recently had a blowout due to a emergency stop skid which torn through the tub.
I was riding in an event so brought a spare pre-glued tub with me. I removed the old and mounted the new, pumped it up to 120psi and kept on riding another 45miles to finish up the 85mile ride.
So the question is, do I need to remove the spare that I mounted and properly glue it on? Or is this ok to keep riding as is?
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I was riding in an event so brought a spare pre-glued tub with me. I removed the old and mounted the new, pumped it up to 120psi and kept on riding another 45miles to finish up the 85mile ride.
So the question is, do I need to remove the spare that I mounted and properly glue it on? Or is this ok to keep riding as is?
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I'd take the spare off for sure. If the old glue on the rim looks still ok, one layer of glue on the rim, or as you may prefer on to basetape and mount it back.
That is what I do.
That is what I do.
Hmmm. I have never really thought about that before. I have not had to replace a tubular on-the-road very often, but in the few instances when I did, I did not even think of keeping that tire on the wheel when I got it home. I wanted to check the quality of the glue for myself before relying on it again. If you do a good job on the initial glue-up, you should be ok, but it is better to check to be certain.
Remember the spare and the rim can be contaminated by dirt / dust and that the spare's installation was not made in controlled conditions.
If you want to rely on your tub, remove the spare and install it properly with new thin coats of glue, or install a new tubular and keep the spare for the next ride.
I’m really enjoying my Vittoria tubs for now, but am already thinking about trying out some Veloflex. With my rims being 20.5mm wide, I assume carbons are the biggest tires I can fit? I’d like to run an Arenberg on the back if I could.
Reading the comments above remind me that I need to get a spare tub ready to carry with me.
Reading the comments above remind me that I need to get a spare tub ready to carry with me.
2010 Orbea Opal 54cm
5.97kg
5.97kg
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My preglued spare is normally a 23mm Vittoria Corsa race tire which is nice and light and tucked away in a vinyl pouch that keeps it dry and out of the light and it slides in and out of my jersey pocket easily. After a flat when I get home I will remove the race tire and install either a 25mm trainer tire or race tire depending what rimset I am running at the time.
Today I just got my 25mm Veloflex Roubaix tire to try for the first time as I have never run the Velo before so hopefully like they say its an easy mount and reliable tire. Going to glue them up today.
Today I just got my 25mm Veloflex Roubaix tire to try for the first time as I have never run the Velo before so hopefully like they say its an easy mount and reliable tire. Going to glue them up today.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
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Got my first ride on the Veloflex Roubaix on the rear today. Wow its a nice tire for sure and I think I like them better than the Vittoria Rubino and it does mount easier than the Vittoria. I was surprised the latex tube holds air for a good duration of time compared to the Vittoria Pave. Must be a heavier tube wall but it does not seem to affect the ride all that much. The 25mm tire I weighed with a layer of glue came just under 300 gr so not to bad for a good trainer tire. Not the most inexpensive tire even when onsale but if it has some reasonable longevity I would likely purchase again in the future. I am still a major Vitttoria fanatic.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake
I wouldn’t classify the Roubaix as a “training” tire at all. It’s the same tire as the Carbon, just a bit bigger. And exactly the same as the Arrenberg but with a tan sidewall instead of all black. I think they’ll lose about 20% of their pressure in a day, say inflated to 100psi.
But yes, very nice tires.
But yes, very nice tires.
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Would you say the Arenburg and the Roubaix have pretty good longevity @Calnago. I am not all that fussy about the tan sidewall but it looks okay on an all black bike I guess. I would prefer the dark sidewall if the Arenburg can go the distance.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake
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The Arrenberg and the Roubaix are the exact same tire eccept for the color of the sidewall. I think their durability is just fine. They are just a great tire in basically all conditions. If I get caught in rain it doesn’t bother me. They are on all my wheels except my dedicated rain bike, because I think Continental Competitions rule in wet weather.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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