Making the transition to tubulars
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
- WhereIsAlexiGrewal84
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Well, I don't race and still ride tubs on the road ... 25 to 28mm tubulars are really super nice to ride and even if RR is perhaps not the lowest, I'll stick with tubs as I didn't find tubeless tires as enjoyable (unless I go for 30+ tires)WhereIsAlexiGrewal84 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 10:50 pmI still have tubular race wheels, except I don't race anymore, so I don't ride them anymore.
I heard those ride like garden hose... is that the case for you?Wingnut wrote:I agree with everything you have said WhereIsAlexiGrewal84...
I have a set of tubulars set up with Vittoria Rally training tyres, they're awful but easier to throw away...
IME Vittoria Rally ride nice. The problem is that they are not always perfectly round and that their puncture resistance is limited.
The garden hose award go to tubulars like Continental sprinter and sprinter gatorskin. These are almost bombproof though (especially gatorskin).
The garden hose award go to tubulars like Continental sprinter and sprinter gatorskin. These are almost bombproof though (especially gatorskin).
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Well I have been using tubs for a good while. One of favourite bikes has just got better. An old trek now with dugast paris roubaix 25mm. They are bigger though that 25mm. The 27mm where huge and fouled the frame.
Plush is how I would describe the ride.
You should have seen the gatorskin that came of. Cut to ribbons but holding together even the thread had fallen apart in one area. The tyre was not even round any more.
Plush is how I would describe the ride.
You should have seen the gatorskin that came of. Cut to ribbons but holding together even the thread had fallen apart in one area. The tyre was not even round any more.
I'm getting back into tubs after 15 years on clinchers. I want to buy good tyres and NOT chuck them in the bin because of a puncture, so I've just been picking the brains of tub repairer Garry Brown. http://www.tubular-tyre-repair.co.uk/ He says they can all be repaired equally well, except for the tubeless tubular ones which don't have a separate inner tube, e.g. Mavic, Tufo, some Contis and a discontinued Schwalbe. And a Dugast I think.
He also said tape is as good as glue for road riding, tape should be changed every time you change the tyre, Tufo and Velox tape are the same thing, Effetto Mariposa tape is too expensive, punctures can be fixed if you use sealant but it's messy, and sealant can glue the sides of a latex inner tube to itself, then the tye has to be binned.
He also said tape is as good as glue for road riding, tape should be changed every time you change the tyre, Tufo and Velox tape are the same thing, Effetto Mariposa tape is too expensive, punctures can be fixed if you use sealant but it's messy, and sealant can glue the sides of a latex inner tube to itself, then the tye has to be binned.
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Tape changed everytime you change the tyre and that what wrong with tape. At the side of the road you can end up retaping to fit the spare.
Sealant can fix most punctures but not all. Hit a hole hard and pinch the tub and sealant wont fix that a spare tub will though and in the dark you dont want to be messing around with tape. Glue has it place. Yes that picture has happened to me more than once. I rode at night on tubs and am glad I glue them when the puncture fairy visits.
Gary brown advise therefore has caveats. For the average tub user it holds but for.me I would.run into problems.
Sealant can fix most punctures but not all. Hit a hole hard and pinch the tub and sealant wont fix that a spare tub will though and in the dark you dont want to be messing around with tape. Glue has it place. Yes that picture has happened to me more than once. I rode at night on tubs and am glad I glue them when the puncture fairy visits.
Gary brown advise therefore has caveats. For the average tub user it holds but for.me I would.run into problems.
Reading this thread I am close to becoming a tubular convert (but I am still only at the page 21!). I need to decide on the new wheels and tubs that will go with them (I have around 3 weeks until the handlebars finally arrive).
Wheels - I would like to go with Bora Ultra 35 or 50 (probably 35 as I am 65 kg). If so, the width of the rim is 24.2 mm. I would need 25 mm tubulars. From the Veloflex offer that would mean Arenberg or Service Course. I would probably try Arenberg as I would like some puncture resistance (at least similar to the current Conti 4000 clinchers I have).
But now it becomes complicated. I don't have a spare rim for stretching (I don't have the new wheels yet either). My LBS doesn't stock Veloflex they have Challenge, Vittoria, Pirelli and Tufo. They'll glue the first tubs on, so which tire I should choose from this offer? Challenge Criterium, Pirelli P Zero, Vittoria Corsa Control or Tufo Elite Ride? They probably won't prepare the rime as I would like or might use the rim tape, how much work it will be to clean the rims for next round of tubs (I'll do that myself)? How should I pre-stretch the tubs when I'll have only one pair of wheels? If I need a stretching rim, is there some cheap one? What else do I need (glue Mastik, white spirits, Veloflex tubs I will buy).
Wheels - I would like to go with Bora Ultra 35 or 50 (probably 35 as I am 65 kg). If so, the width of the rim is 24.2 mm. I would need 25 mm tubulars. From the Veloflex offer that would mean Arenberg or Service Course. I would probably try Arenberg as I would like some puncture resistance (at least similar to the current Conti 4000 clinchers I have).
But now it becomes complicated. I don't have a spare rim for stretching (I don't have the new wheels yet either). My LBS doesn't stock Veloflex they have Challenge, Vittoria, Pirelli and Tufo. They'll glue the first tubs on, so which tire I should choose from this offer? Challenge Criterium, Pirelli P Zero, Vittoria Corsa Control or Tufo Elite Ride? They probably won't prepare the rime as I would like or might use the rim tape, how much work it will be to clean the rims for next round of tubs (I'll do that myself)? How should I pre-stretch the tubs when I'll have only one pair of wheels? If I need a stretching rim, is there some cheap one? What else do I need (glue Mastik, white spirits, Veloflex tubs I will buy).
I tried vittoria the tufo and didn't had to stretch them.
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You can stretch a tubular on a clincher rim. And with Veloflex, only limited stretching is needed, if any, so you could stretch them on the new rims for a day or so. If I were you, I'd get the Bora and Veloflex and glue it myself with Mastik One. That's what I do. You only need the wheels, the tires, valve extenders if your wheels don't already include them (mine did; if not, get the extenders with a removable valve core and a valve core tool), the Mastik, some flux brushes to spread the glue, some emory cloth to lightly scuff the rim bed and acetone or rubbing alcohol to then clean and degrease the rim bed. Remember -- thiiinnnn coats of glue.ms82 wrote: ↑Tue May 05, 2020 7:28 amReading this thread I am close to becoming a tubular convert (but I am still only at the page 21!). I need to decide on the new wheels and tubs that will go with them (I have around 3 weeks until the handlebars finally arrive).
Wheels - I would like to go with Bora Ultra 35 or 50 (probably 35 as I am 65 kg). If so, the width of the rim is 24.2 mm. I would need 25 mm tubulars. From the Veloflex offer that would mean Arenberg or Service Course. I would probably try Arenberg as I would like some puncture resistance (at least similar to the current Conti 4000 clinchers I have).
But now it becomes complicated. I don't have a spare rim for stretching (I don't have the new wheels yet either). My LBS doesn't stock Veloflex they have Challenge, Vittoria, Pirelli and Tufo. They'll glue the first tubs on, so which tire I should choose from this offer? Challenge Criterium, Pirelli P Zero, Vittoria Corsa Control or Tufo Elite Ride? They probably won't prepare the rime as I would like or might use the rim tape, how much work it will be to clean the rims for next round of tubs (I'll do that myself)? How should I pre-stretch the tubs when I'll have only one pair of wheels? If I need a stretching rim, is there some cheap one? What else do I need (glue Mastik, white spirits, Veloflex tubs I will buy).
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@dj97223 Thanks. Will get the Bora but have to wait for it for three weeks. As I am eager to ride my new bike and would be a hassle to pick up the wheels (glue tubulars) and get them back to the bike shop to ride the new bike I will let them do the first gluing. They will use the Mastik Pro which should be easier to get off the rim afterwards.
Have anyone tried the Mastik Pro or are is everyone using the tried Mastik One? M'One seems to be much cheaper (not the whole package but per application), however M'Pro might be useful when travelling.
I am still not sure which valve extenders are the right ones. Veloflex tubs come with 42 mm valve and according to the Silca's valve extender guide I would need the smallest size extender for Bora 35. So the size is clear but how can I tell if they have a removable valve core? https://www.bike24.com/p2155716.html?menu=1000,4,22,78 looks ok but how about https://www.bike24.com/p24107.html?menu=1000,4,22,78 or https://www.bike24.com/p2285745.html?menu=1000,4,22,78? Any valve cores for presta will do?
For on the road sealing I've seen people here are not very fond of Pitstop but like Tufo Extreme. Is it the best choice or should I also consider Orange Seal? How about cuts or bigger punctures? Short of sending the tub to someone to repair it what can I do? Is any of you using Loctite super glue or 410 with success?
@Geoff I would be glad to have some old school LBS around here. Not very satisfied with most of the LBS hence I am learning how to do everything myself. PF BB is the first thing I need to fix on my current bike when I'll have a new one Thanks though, will ask anyway!
As for tubs, I'll order Veloflex Service Course and Arenberg in 25 mm for the 24.2 mm rim (two of each) and will have my LBS put on Vittoria's Corsa or Corsa Control for start.
Have anyone tried the Mastik Pro or are is everyone using the tried Mastik One? M'One seems to be much cheaper (not the whole package but per application), however M'Pro might be useful when travelling.
I am still not sure which valve extenders are the right ones. Veloflex tubs come with 42 mm valve and according to the Silca's valve extender guide I would need the smallest size extender for Bora 35. So the size is clear but how can I tell if they have a removable valve core? https://www.bike24.com/p2155716.html?menu=1000,4,22,78 looks ok but how about https://www.bike24.com/p24107.html?menu=1000,4,22,78 or https://www.bike24.com/p2285745.html?menu=1000,4,22,78? Any valve cores for presta will do?
For on the road sealing I've seen people here are not very fond of Pitstop but like Tufo Extreme. Is it the best choice or should I also consider Orange Seal? How about cuts or bigger punctures? Short of sending the tub to someone to repair it what can I do? Is any of you using Loctite super glue or 410 with success?
@Geoff I would be glad to have some old school LBS around here. Not very satisfied with most of the LBS hence I am learning how to do everything myself. PF BB is the first thing I need to fix on my current bike when I'll have a new one Thanks though, will ask anyway!
As for tubs, I'll order Veloflex Service Course and Arenberg in 25 mm for the 24.2 mm rim (two of each) and will have my LBS put on Vittoria's Corsa or Corsa Control for start.