The best thing to do is to test the tire first. You should not be easily able to remove the edges of the deflated tire from the rim. I would recommend testing each tire (both sides) in a few spots. If it seems to be well-glued, you should be safe to re-inflate it and ride. Make sure you inspect the tread and sidewall, too, to ensure that the tire has not been damaged during storage or transportation.
Just wondering if keeping them in a folded state with a tight-ish elastic band will bugger anything up over time. Like a year max before I get around to using them.
EDIT: Call me lazy, just found a good article here: http://www.cxmagazine.com/buying-tubula ... -explained. Bottom line? Don't do what I'm doing...
I have never left a tire in it's original packaging, as I would be concerned about leaving a natural rubber tread (which is adhered only by an adhesive and not vulcanized to the casing) or the tube folded tightly.
To be honest I think the misconception about aging tubulars comes from misunderstanding the different tire building techniques. Handmade, non-vulcanized tires benefit from aging. Cheaper, vulcanized "mechanically" built tires do not. Likely this is where the misinformation has come from over the years - guys who tried to age mass-produced vulcanized tires saw no benefit (and perhaps even a performance degradation) without perhaps realizing they were trying to age the wrong kind of tires.
PS - nice little snow storm you guys had over the week-end...I arrived just in time to "enjoy" it
Yeah it has been a bit brisk. It was 15 degrees on Saturday, then -10 on Sunday. There was about 10 or 15 cm of snow, too. I did intervals, but should have switched to the MTB. It was brutal. Go figure.
You know, people keep on telling me that, but I do it anyway. I have to say, there is a very visible and tangible difference to an 'aged', vulcanized tire and a 'fresh' one. My aged, 'Black Chilli' Conti Comps and Vittorias all develope a rust-coloured patina similar to my Dugast or FMB tires over the years. Also, they resist the 'fingernail' test better than a 'fresh' tire. I, for one, will keep on aging all tubulars...
Correct. All tyres do benefit from some aging even though the handmade ones should benefit the most. IMHO, I consider it as a necessity to properly age anything handmade a la Veloflex, FMB, Dugast etc.
They won't degrade, they'll outgas and the rubber will be a tiny bit harder.
BTW, I happen to have a big box with all kinds of clinchers in them as well which has been in the cellar for at least a dozen years. All of them still look fine. (Don't panic, I stock these for one of my brothers. )
BTW, anyone have a good strategy for gluing Competitions (or any Contis for that matter)? I will be putting on a set next Spring but I had a hell of a time mounting them dry to stretch on a set of old hoops . Wow. Used a tire lever and mounted the last bit an inch at a time. Not sure how well that will work once glue gets introduced into the mix.
My 'technique' appears to be no different than anyone else: placing the stretching rim valve-up on the floor; leaning over the rim while working the tire around the rim, slowly sliding your hands down around the tire so as to keep pressure on it; standing up and placing the rim into your waist prior to flipping the last bit of the tire onto the rim with your thumbs. It always goes smoothly for me. Even Conti Comp 25's are ok (not like a Dugast Paris-Roubaix Seta 27, as an example). Inflate them for a few weeks and then glue 'em up.
I actually think that tires are easier to get on a rim once they have glue on the basetape, as they don't 'slip' back up the rim if you let the pressure off. You should be ok if you leave the tire to stretch for a couple of weeks on their own.
Geoff wrote:Whaaaa? You have a 13-degree cavern under your estate to house tubulars too?
What do you think? Actually they are stored in a tower. About 18-degree, but it is dark and they are on old wooden rims.
Keep latex away from electric motors that produce Ozone (O3). So storage in a garage with a freezer unit may not be a good idea.
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