Open mold wide profile carbon wheels
Moderator: robbosmans
"really not being rude, i just wonder...why would you put DT240/CX Ray on wheels with such a heavy rims?"
It does, 1565g is heavy for light rider or whom pursues ultralight version, while it is more stable for heavy riders or rough riding.
Both DT240 (375g a set) and DT350 hub (heavier, around 410g a set) are used a lot for disc brake use, stiff, meanwhile, wide range as options from J-Bend to Straight, 6 bolts to center lock, QR 9*100 10*135 to Thru axle 12*100 12*142, Thru axle 15*100 12*142.
It does, 1565g is heavy for light rider or whom pursues ultralight version, while it is more stable for heavy riders or rough riding.
Both DT240 (375g a set) and DT350 hub (heavier, around 410g a set) are used a lot for disc brake use, stiff, meanwhile, wide range as options from J-Bend to Straight, 6 bolts to center lock, QR 9*100 10*135 to Thru axle 12*100 12*142, Thru axle 15*100 12*142.
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Indeed, little hard if to meet all specs without one or two sacrifice, if not aim at TOP hub, Bitex 312 is an consideration, 24/24H or 28/28H, front 105g + rear 230g, center lock, straight, Thru axle 15*100 12*142 or 12*100 12*142, XD or Shimano 9.10.11sp.
If open to 6 bolts, more light hubs to choose.
Extralite hub, 6 bolts, 24/24H, 15*100 12*142, straight, Shimano 9.10.11sp, (F63g R144g).
Tune hub, 6 bolts, 24/24H, 15*100 12*142, straight, Shimano 9.10.11sp, (F84g R186g).
Extralite hub, 6 bolts, 24/24H, 15*100 12*142, straight, Shimano 9.10.11sp, (F63g R144g).
Tune hub, 6 bolts, 24/24H, 15*100 12*142, straight, Shimano 9.10.11sp, (F84g R186g).
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2018 4:21 am
Does anyone know of a company that sells a disc wheelset for less than $500 that weighs in at less than 1500g? Seems like hunts (alloy) disc wheelset might be the best deal out there
Thought I'd share my experience of ordering a set of LB RR46CO2 from the UK:
I ordered a set of wheels built up with those 46mm X 28mm rims, DT Swiss 240 CentreLock disc hubs and 24 Pillar 1420 spokes on each wheel (I'm 68kg so no need for more spokes I think)
Total cost including PayPal fee, delivery, customs duty, import VAT and parcelforce's admin charge came to £840.
Ordered on March 20th, got shipping notification on April 10th, arrived in UK on April 13th but took two weeks to get through customs so I finally got them on April 27th so just over 5 weeks in all.
LB were very helpful, even sending me a picture of the wheels on a set of scales to make sure I was happy before shipping them.
Total weight is 1435g confirmed on my own scales when I received them.
I mounted Michelin Competition 25c tyres which inflate to just under 28mm wide on the 21mm internal width rims.
I've only ridden them for 20 miles but they're very impressive so far. Nothing even close to them in terms of depth/width/weight for a disc wheelset without spending £2k+ on enves or roval clx50.
I really appreciated the information on this thread before I ordered and probably wouldn't have done so without it so I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has about the wheels or the process.
K
I ordered a set of wheels built up with those 46mm X 28mm rims, DT Swiss 240 CentreLock disc hubs and 24 Pillar 1420 spokes on each wheel (I'm 68kg so no need for more spokes I think)
Total cost including PayPal fee, delivery, customs duty, import VAT and parcelforce's admin charge came to £840.
Ordered on March 20th, got shipping notification on April 10th, arrived in UK on April 13th but took two weeks to get through customs so I finally got them on April 27th so just over 5 weeks in all.
LB were very helpful, even sending me a picture of the wheels on a set of scales to make sure I was happy before shipping them.
Total weight is 1435g confirmed on my own scales when I received them.
I mounted Michelin Competition 25c tyres which inflate to just under 28mm wide on the 21mm internal width rims.
I've only ridden them for 20 miles but they're very impressive so far. Nothing even close to them in terms of depth/width/weight for a disc wheelset without spending £2k+ on enves or roval clx50.
I really appreciated the information on this thread before I ordered and probably wouldn't have done so without it so I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has about the wheels or the process.
K
The Light Bicycle 30mm wide rims will be availiable for rim brakes, too. I am not sure if they understood what I meant with textured brake track, but we will see in two month.
"Do you mean you are interested in 30mm wide/36mm deep deep rims with brake surface. Right? For wider road rims, we will release in 2 months.
Yes, our new wide road rims with textured brake track will be ready in 2 months for sale."
"Do you mean you are interested in 30mm wide/36mm deep deep rims with brake surface. Right? For wider road rims, we will release in 2 months.
Yes, our new wide road rims with textured brake track will be ready in 2 months for sale."
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:23 am
the LB 30mm externals are with 23mm internals right?
they are releasing in 36mm+ 56mm flavors?
need to know how wide are they when paired with 28c contigp4000s2...
they are releasing in 36mm+ 56mm flavors?
need to know how wide are they when paired with 28c contigp4000s2...
The 4000S II 28mm will be at least 33mm wide on these rims. Very low pressures should be possible and it should ride like a couch, but if you want good aerodynamics, you should stick with 25mm tires (should be nearly 29mm wide on these rims).
All wide aero wheels are made for 23mm tires at the moment (also the 29.9mm wide Roval CLX 50, as it is not that wide at the brake track), this will be the first rim to follow the 105% rule with 25mm tires. BUT watt gains will be low one digit. It's just to know that it's the best possible solution.
And I am also tempted.
All wide aero wheels are made for 23mm tires at the moment (also the 29.9mm wide Roval CLX 50, as it is not that wide at the brake track), this will be the first rim to follow the 105% rule with 25mm tires. BUT watt gains will be low one digit. It's just to know that it's the best possible solution.
And I am also tempted.
I think I’ll be ordereding a wheelset from Yunshin, using their ASD 55mm30E/22I rim. Looks to tick all the boxes I’d need. I plan on running them on my Exploro as a road aero wheelset. I asked for a quote and it came in a good bit less than a similar build from LB
I don't think the LB rims have been put in a wind tunnel, so aerodynamic discussions seem moot. They might be more aero than a shallow rim, but as we've seen proven before, without testing you can't really predict aerodynamics based on basic width and depth measurements.
Re: yishun asymmetric. One disadvantage to asymmetric (at least the 33mm asymmetric I just built) is that half the spokes enter at a bit of an angle. So you may be advised to use brass nipples -- Novembet was describing that on RBR as being a side effect of doing asymmetric with carbon -- spoke drillings can't easily be angled correctly (?). Anyway, I built with alloy nipples but may find myself needing to rebuild these with brass.
LB are more expensive, but I also have the sense, after building both, that they are also better rims.
Re: yishun asymmetric. One disadvantage to asymmetric (at least the 33mm asymmetric I just built) is that half the spokes enter at a bit of an angle. So you may be advised to use brass nipples -- Novembet was describing that on RBR as being a side effect of doing asymmetric with carbon -- spoke drillings can't easily be angled correctly (?). Anyway, I built with alloy nipples but may find myself needing to rebuild these with brass.
LB are more expensive, but I also have the sense, after building both, that they are also better rims.
I also had a Yishun rim, which was 20g heavier than stated, Light Bicycle was always spot on so far.
Aerodynamics have been tested a lot in the last years and CFD has brought a lot of new insights - so it is possible to predict aerodynamics of certain rim shapes and heights, I guess.
As a thumb rule, the Reynolds drop shape is the most stable in cross winds but has the highest drag, round V-shapes are in between and torodial shapes have the lowest drag but are most prone to cross winds.
That's why Bontrager's latest XXX series goes back from torodial to round V-shape, although the aero knowledge didn't change since 2011: https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... cA&cad=rja
The 105% rule is easy to understand, as the wind stays longer connected to the wheel, if the rim is wider than the tire.
In the real world the differences are marginal, especially with rims of the same height - and height is the most important factor. But we are talking about a few watts at 45km/h when 450 watts are needed overall.
Aerodynamics have been tested a lot in the last years and CFD has brought a lot of new insights - so it is possible to predict aerodynamics of certain rim shapes and heights, I guess.
As a thumb rule, the Reynolds drop shape is the most stable in cross winds but has the highest drag, round V-shapes are in between and torodial shapes have the lowest drag but are most prone to cross winds.
That's why Bontrager's latest XXX series goes back from torodial to round V-shape, although the aero knowledge didn't change since 2011: https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... cA&cad=rja
The 105% rule is easy to understand, as the wind stays longer connected to the wheel, if the rim is wider than the tire.
In the real world the differences are marginal, especially with rims of the same height - and height is the most important factor. But we are talking about a few watts at 45km/h when 450 watts are needed overall.
I've been on Light-Bicycle WRU35C02 for several years, running tubeless tires only. As a diligent weenie, I always keep an upgrades spreadsheet ready, which lists Light-Bycicle RR46C02 as something I'd like to try. The planned wheelset won't get me under 6kg, but a set of tubed clinchers certainly would, so I can't decided if I should go with hooked vs hookless. The earlier posts indicate that hooked version should work fine with tubeless, am I correct in this assumption?
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Hooked RR46C02 will work fine with tubeless, yes. They were really easy for me to set up tubeless with a floor-pump -- 2 layers of Stans tape, Schwalbe Pro One 28mm.
I think there is a relatively low max-pressure recommended for the hookless, so I would stick to hooked beads for road tubeless.
(Surprisingly Yishun does not have a low max pressure for their hookless beads, but I feel a little more comfortable with LB's conservative approach here.)
I bought the RR46C02 before the weight drop (for their disc rims). They we're still relatively light, given the depth (right at claimed weights for me). I built them with Hope RS2 hubs. (Going for longevity over weight savings, admittedly.)
I then built the RR36CO2 hookless for a race gravel wheelset. And then the Yishun async 33mm (I forget the model no) for my daily commuter and gravel wheels.
I think there is a relatively low max-pressure recommended for the hookless, so I would stick to hooked beads for road tubeless.
(Surprisingly Yishun does not have a low max pressure for their hookless beads, but I feel a little more comfortable with LB's conservative approach here.)
I bought the RR46C02 before the weight drop (for their disc rims). They we're still relatively light, given the depth (right at claimed weights for me). I built them with Hope RS2 hubs. (Going for longevity over weight savings, admittedly.)
I then built the RR36CO2 hookless for a race gravel wheelset. And then the Yishun async 33mm (I forget the model no) for my daily commuter and gravel wheels.