Open mold wide profile carbon wheels

[Beaver]

Keen to see what they come up with in the BlackTek road stuff. Hoping for a 30x35 with 22/23mm hooked internal.

Built on CL 240s with 24/28 J-bend CX-Rays and 26mm turbo cottons would make a mint semi aero hills wheelset to go with my 7.8s


Edit: Just got a reply back, apparently they will be doing a 38x31-2mm road rim in the BlackTek technology. Party time.

Did they say how wide they will be on the inside? 21mm would be fine for 25mm Conti 4000S II and GP 5000.

And I just ordered another 36x28-21mm set... But 31mm outside at the brake track would be too much for my brakes anyway...

[Nefarious86]

I'd say they will be disc only at that width and 22-23 internal

[sebejo]

I'd say they will be disc only at that width and 22-23 internal

Wouldn't be surprised with even wider internal. Take eg. the new design from 3T, goes as wide as 25mm:
https://www.3t.bike/en/products/wheels/ ... 5-637.html

[Beaver]

And they even put 25mm tires on those... But the 4000S II is wider than stated...

[deepakvrao]

Purchased a pair of LB U-shape 45mm clinchers (with DT Swiss hubs) and received them last week for my CAAD10 build. Got the bike together over the weekend and on the 2nd ride on the rollers (work and poopy weather prevented me from riding outside) I heard a pop from the front wheel. Figuring it was a tire seating I carried on with my interval but felt a rhythmic thumping in my handlebars. With the interval over I stopped and inspected the wheel and found that the brake track on one side of the rim had developed a noticeable bulge. I have yet to take the tire off to inspect it (will do so tonight). I've already dropped an email to LB but they're off on holiday through this week. I'm hoping they'll send me a new rim and I can walk it over.

I'll keep all the inmates up to date on what happens.

Been going thru this entire thread, and I find some posts like this, and later lots of guys still buying LB wheels. Is it that this was a one off kind of issue, or have they improved?

Bit late in the day for me to ask, as I just paid for my 56mm wheel set this morning.

[Beaver]

That was three years ago and they changed/improved the way they produce the rims regulary - those old brake tracks are e.g. no longer availiable. If there were issues we would read about it very often here, I guess. My 2018 rims are trouble free so far *knockonwood*.

[deepakvrao]

I finally got my Light Bicycle 46mm deep by 28mm wide (22.5mm hookless internal) built up around Bitex BX106 hubs with CX-Ray spokes. I must say, I'm really impressed. I found them very easy to build on my homemade truing stand.

The most difficult part was getting my Schwalbe Pro One tires (25c front and 28c rear) to pop onto the bead. It wasn't too difficult to get the tires onto the rim but even with an air compressor they were very reluctant to pop onto the bead. It took about 5 inflations and deflations and liberal amounts of soapy water to get them on. That being said, once they were on they really were on! I deflated them and then pumped them up to 60 psi with a track pump and left them overnight. Even without sealant they were still fully inflated the next morning!

I added sealant and went for a 30 mile ride through rolling hills and enjoyed them. It wasn't a particularly tough test for them, but they felt stiff, comfortable, and easy to handle in the light breeze. I ran them both at 60 psi which felt fast and very comfortable. I don't know if it was just placebo, but running the Pro One tires tubeless instead of with butyl tubes (which I've been using for the last 1000 miles or so) was noticeably more comfortable. I kept checking to see if I had a flat at every stop sign and traffic light because they rolled so well!

So, you mean once you gt them seated, they stayed that way even when deflated?

[CallumRD1]

I finally got my Light Bicycle 46mm deep by 28mm wide (22.5mm hookless internal) built up around Bitex BX106 hubs with CX-Ray spokes. I must say, I'm really impressed. I found them very easy to build on my homemade truing stand.

The most difficult part was getting my Schwalbe Pro One tires (25c front and 28c rear) to pop onto the bead. It wasn't too difficult to get the tires onto the rim but even with an air compressor they were very reluctant to pop onto the bead. It took about 5 inflations and deflations and liberal amounts of soapy water to get them on. That being said, once they were on they really were on! I deflated them and then pumped them up to 60 psi with a track pump and left them overnight. Even without sealant they were still fully inflated the next morning!

I added sealant and went for a 30 mile ride through rolling hills and enjoyed them. It wasn't a particularly tough test for them, but they felt stiff, comfortable, and easy to handle in the light breeze. I ran them both at 60 psi which felt fast and very comfortable. I don't know if it was just placebo, but running the Pro One tires tubeless instead of with butyl tubes (which I've been using for the last 1000 miles or so) was noticeably more comfortable. I kept checking to see if I had a flat at every stop sign and traffic light because they rolled so well!

So, you mean once you gt them seated, they stayed that way even when deflated?

Yes. The only times I ever broke the bead was when I was replacing the tires. I would add sealant by deflating the tire, removing the valve core, and injecting sealant through the valve with a syringe. Additionally, when I replaced the two tires due to wear, the new ones (same sizes and models) were much easier to seat. I just used a track pump and the beads popped on at around 80 psi and stayed on just fine when deflating. (And I've been running them at 60 psi most of the time, 50 psi when it's really slippery or as low as 40 psi when I'm riding gravel.)

[deepakvrao]

I finally got my Light Bicycle 46mm deep by 28mm wide (22.5mm hookless internal) built up around Bitex BX106 hubs with CX-Ray spokes. I must say, I'm really impressed. I found them very easy to build on my homemade truing stand.

The most difficult part was getting my Schwalbe Pro One tires (25c front and 28c rear) to pop onto the bead. It wasn't too difficult to get the tires onto the rim but even with an air compressor they were very reluctant to pop onto the bead. It took about 5 inflations and deflations and liberal amounts of soapy water to get them on. That being said, once they were on they really were on! I deflated them and then pumped them up to 60 psi with a track pump and left them overnight. Even without sealant they were still fully inflated the next morning!

I added sealant and went for a 30 mile ride through rolling hills and enjoyed them. It wasn't a particularly tough test for them, but they felt stiff, comfortable, and easy to handle in the light breeze. I ran them both at 60 psi which felt fast and very comfortable. I don't know if it was just placebo, but running the Pro One tires tubeless instead of with butyl tubes (which I've been using for the last 1000 miles or so) was noticeably more comfortable. I kept checking to see if I had a flat at every stop sign and traffic light because they rolled so well!

So, you mean once you gt them seated, they stayed that way even when deflated?

Yes. The only times I ever broke the bead was when I was replacing the tires. I would add sealant by deflating the tire, removing the valve core, and injecting sealant through the valve with a syringe. Additionally, when I replaced the two tires due to wear, the new ones (same sizes and models) were much easier to seat. I just used a track pump and the beads popped on at around 80 psi and stayed on just fine when deflating. (And I've been running them at 60 psi most of the time, 50 psi when it's really slippery or as low as 40 psi when I'm riding gravel.)

I just ordered the 56 rims. Wonder if the hook profile is similar to the 46s.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Beaver]

And they even put 25mm tires on those... But the 4000S II is wider than stated...

Someone at 3t is reading here... They fixed it:

[mrlobber]

Do not have the bike to ride them yet , but finally put together the following wheelset last week:

BTLOS WRC-60 disc specific rims (60mm height, 26mm external, 17mm internal), laced to Carbon Ti disc SP hubs 24/24 with Sapim CX Rays.

Wheel weights:
Front: 750g
Rear: 843g

Put GP5000TL 25mm on these, installation was a total breeze, and this setup holds air even with zero sealant in it.

Final weights with tires, tubeless valves and 1 layer of Schwalbe TL tape, but without sealant and rotors:
Front: 1072g
Rear: 1165g

[Sleeprequired]

Just a heads up for anyone wanting to fit Conti GP5000 to the 56mm lightbicycle falcon rims.

I got my rims and they actually measure 30.45, with the 25cc tyre measuring 28.45. I expect a bit of stretch however they’re spot on.

Went to go for a ride today but a mate came off on some road oil and broke 2 ribs.

[Beaver]

Just a heads up for anyone wanting to fit Conti GP5000 to the 56mm lightbicycle falcon rims.

I got my rims and they actually measure 30.45, with the 25cc tyre measuring 28.45. I expect a bit of stretch however they’re spot on.

Went to go for a ride today but a mate came off on some road oil and broke 2 ribs.

Did you happen to measure the inner diameter also? The tire seems so narrow for 23mm inside width...?

And 3T have replaced the original 25mm picture above with the edited one.

[northshore]

I'm looking to get my first set of deep carbon wheels for a new disc road bike build. Trying to decide between Farsports FSL58CM-28T-DSLT And Lightbicycle WR46C02. Both are 28 external, 21 internal - the farsports being deeper, u-shaped and asymmetrical. Any opinions between the manufacturers?

It's also a budget build, so will be going with Novatec 411/412 hubs with pillar spokes. Or is this a bad idea, and I should just go for dt350 with sapims?

[AJS914]

I went with DT350s on my recent Farsports on the theory that they will be trouble free for many many miles. I have a set on my gravel bike and they have been faultless.