Excellent, I'll see if LightBicycle can build my wheels with those, though they look only marginally different than the Race.DutchMountains wrote: ↑Tue Oct 02, 2018 12:24 pmIt does, except for the CX-Ray spokes. I've never seen evidence that bladed spokes will save significantly on watts and they are expensive. I would use regular Sapim Race spokes or maybe Sapim Force (which is thicker/stronger where it counts: in the bend near the hub flange).
Open mold wide profile carbon wheels
Moderator: robbosmans
LB will also build with CX-Ray-equivalent aero spokes by Pillar or CN. No problem with these, and quite a bit cheaper.
I'm not sure if they even stock round spokes.
I'm not sure if they even stock round spokes.
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Only because I hadn't seen them! Do you have any further info on them?
Any particular reason you're not considering Yishun's wider asymmetric rims? I've been thinking of picking up a pair but opinions on them have been scarce.
https://www.yishunbike.com/asd-disc-bra ... enduro_c13JohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:27 amOnly because I hadn't seen them! Do you have any further info on them?
Any particular reason you're not considering Yishun's wider asymmetric rims? I've been thinking of picking up a pair but opinions on them have been scarce.
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Velt wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 2:22 amJohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:27 amOnly because I hadn't seen them! Do you have any further info on them?
Any particular reason you're not considering Yishun's wider asymmetric rims? I've been thinking of picking up a pair but opinions on them have been scarce.
https://www.yishunbike.com/asd-disc-bra ... enduro_c13
They look very nice. With a slightly narrower internal width they may allow a true 28mm to work on the front. They say tubeless only. I assume it's still fine to run tubes.
Have you found any reports on them?
The spoke hole angle is what concerns me about the Yishun ASD https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... n#p1407908 but others with the same wheels have not had this issue https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... n#p1415062JohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:31 am
They look very nice. With a slightly narrower internal width they may allow a true 28mm to work on the front. They say tubeless only. I assume it's still fine to run tubes.
Have you found any reports on them?
Would Sapim Polyax nipple solve spoke angle problem?
http://www.sapim.be/nipples/brass/polyax
http://www.sapim.be/nipples/brass/polyax
Only the same things emotive posted above, but they also offer a symmetric rim with those dimensions anywaysJohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:31 amVelt wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 2:22 amJohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:27 amOnly because I hadn't seen them! Do you have any further info on them?
Any particular reason you're not considering Yishun's wider asymmetric rims? I've been thinking of picking up a pair but opinions on them have been scarce.
https://www.yishunbike.com/asd-disc-bra ... enduro_c13
They look very nice. With a slightly narrower internal width they may allow a true 28mm to work on the front. They say tubeless only. I assume it's still fine to run tubes.
Have you found any reports on them?
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Looking for alternatives to the Enve 4.5 and 5.6 rims with similar widths and braking surfaces. Any ideas from the land of open molds?
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Hmm. I suppose a quick message to Yishun to address the spoke drilling could help. However, it really sounds like LB are reliable. How much better do you think Yishun's profile is over LB's? Does asymmetric matter at 56mm. At that depth (56mm), does the U shape still trump the hybrid shape LB has?Velt wrote: ↑Thu Oct 04, 2018 7:02 amOnly the same things emotive posted above, but they also offer a symmetric rim with those dimensions anywaysJohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:31 amVelt wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 2:22 amJohnPeopleman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:27 am
Only because I hadn't seen them! Do you have any further info on them?
https://www.yishunbike.com/asd-disc-bra ... enduro_c13
They look very nice. With a slightly narrower internal width they may allow a true 28mm to work on the front. They say tubeless only. I assume it's still fine to run tubes.
Have you found any reports on them?
Clincher carbon rims don't get much lighter than alloy. They are much stiffer and allows your wheel to stay true better.
Tubeless, disc brake make wheels a bit heavier. (No brake track will often help weightwise.)
You will be pressed to make a cheep disc brake wheelset at 1300gr.
What's your budget? What do you weigh? How low pressures do you like to run? Are you a sprinter?
Thanks a lot alcatraz!alcatraz wrote: ↑Fri Oct 05, 2018 9:42 amClincher carbon rims don't get much lighter than alloy. They are much stiffer and allows your wheel to stay true better.
Tubeless, disc brake make wheels a bit heavier. (No brake track will often help weightwise.)
You will be pressed to make a cheep disc brake wheelset at 1300gr.
What's your budget? What do you weigh? How low pressures do you like to run? Are you a sprinter?
I would prefer carbon rims for an higher profile than alloy (not so high, but around 30-40mm) and for their stifness, as you said.
My budget is around 1000$, but less is always better
I'm 60-61kg and I'm a climber, sprints are not my job! I usually ride with clinchers (not tubeless, which I never tried seriously) around 7bar; my rides are usually very hilly.
Thanks a lot in advance for your suggestion! And sorry for my poor english
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