Defective, any hub with a zero in that position is one of the potentially defective EXP hubs, anything other than a zero is fine.
Light Bicycle wheel rims?
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 82
- Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2019 8:29 pm
Not necessarily defective. DT Swiss has shipped out upgrade kits to wheelbuilders and some wheelbuilders have swapped out the defective parts on hubs with bad serial numbers. Unfortunately there's no easy way to check the part to confirm it. The new rachet has a shinier finish on it but unless you have the old part side by side one cannot tell. Perhaps sending an inquiry to LB would help.frostorama wrote: ↑Tue Sep 14, 2021 4:27 pmDefective, any hub with a zero in that position is one of the potentially defective EXP hubs, anything other than a zero is fine.
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This is the link that LB send me when I asked. All the info is there.
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/ratchet-exp- ... nce-notice
Also a very good video here:
https://youtu.be/TeZXukqzon4
Mine had the serial number with a potential issue but had not failed yet. DT Swiss send me the parts and the change out was done in 30mins. But you also have the option to go to a DT Swiss service partner near you. But they will explain once you make contact with them.
Is it possible that the "envelope" that held the bead suffered enough abrasion to cause the glue to fail? That area does look quite worn - maybe from flexing and moving a bit inside the rim at low pressure during gravel use? Perhaps the interior finish of the rim is a bit rough and abrasive compared to alloy? Just a theory. I have a set of those wheels (and another set on the way) but I usually bin my tires when they are at what most people would consider 50% worn.frnchy wrote: ↑Tue Sep 14, 2021 5:08 am-pressure =~55-60 psiMr.Gib wrote: ↑Mon Sep 13, 2021 11:19 pmThis is a big deal and thanks for the warning.
A a few questions: what pressure were you running, what was the temperature at the time, and is that a standard butyl inner tube in there? I assume that yellow cord is the kevlar tire bead that has escaped from its cloth "envelope"? No tear in the cloth, just opened at the edge? Those are Falcon Pros? They look really nice.
One of the things I like about cloth tires is that they should be less affected by heat in the bead area. But this one clearly came unglued. My guess is that it is totally a tire issue. Not that there should be a heat issue with disc wheels.
I find this so disturbing as I run a lot of Vittoria on rim brake bikes which in theory should make them even more susceptible to this type of failure. OTOH, I can't recall this type of failure with Vittoria before, seen it plenty with other brands though. Hopefully it's a one-off.
-temp =~80 F (that's what my wahoo recorded; at the road surface, add a dozen degrees or so. I've ridden in considerably hotter conditions with no issues though)
-tube = panaracer r-air, no patches, nearly new
What's visible in the second pic is the bead, and the damage is as you say - the cloth enveloping the bead came unglued (see pic below, it's crappy but you can see the glue/bead/cloth interface). I've put this tire through quite some gravel abuse, but as noted before I haven't seen any sidewall damage as a result, and I inspect my tires fairly frequently.
The rims and bead hooks are completely undamaged. The worst I had to do was wipe off the talc from the inner tube.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
Yeah, it does look like abrasion along the bead had cut the casing. Does the rim hook feel sharp? I have personally witnessed a badly manufactured Roval aluminum rim that had cut the casing on a pretty new GP4k tire, causing the tire to fail. So I do know this issue is real and can happen.
Hi everybody,
Would you recommend me to use standard DT Pro Lock brass nipples vs DT Pro Head nipples(tha same as Sapim Polyax) for building the wheelset on AR46 rims? I would pick the regular ones, but not sure if there's an angles that requires more rounded shape like Pro Head's.
Thanks
Would you recommend me to use standard DT Pro Lock brass nipples vs DT Pro Head nipples(tha same as Sapim Polyax) for building the wheelset on AR46 rims? I would pick the regular ones, but not sure if there's an angles that requires more rounded shape like Pro Head's.
Thanks
Mine arrived today!
Placed the order on the 30th July so that's roughly 7 weeks start to finish
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 9:29 am
Ok guys, here is the WR50 wheelset build I'm looking to get to fit my Cervelo Aspero for use on-road. any comments or advice before I pull trigger?
I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...
HUB
Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub
Front Axle: 12 / 100mm
Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm
Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S
Spoke Head: Straight pull
Brake System: Center lock
Hub Color: Black
Front Holes Count: 24H
Rear Holes Count: 24H
Ratchet: 56T
SPOKES/NIPPLES
Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides
Nipple: Aluminium Black
RIM
Brake System: Disc
Version: Flyweight
Bead type: Hook
Finish: Paintless
Weave: UD
Rim Warranty: 5 Years
Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes
Drain Hole: No Drain Holes
I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...
HUB
Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub
Front Axle: 12 / 100mm
Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm
Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S
Spoke Head: Straight pull
Brake System: Center lock
Hub Color: Black
Front Holes Count: 24H
Rear Holes Count: 24H
Ratchet: 56T
SPOKES/NIPPLES
Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides
Nipple: Aluminium Black
RIM
Brake System: Disc
Version: Flyweight
Bead type: Hook
Finish: Paintless
Weave: UD
Rim Warranty: 5 Years
Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes
Drain Hole: No Drain Holes
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- Posts: 15
- Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2021 10:25 am
Carbon Ti hubs are extremely noisy. Why 24/24 spokes? How much do you weigh?steamroller wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:17 amOk guys, here is the WR50 wheelset build I'm looking to get to fit my Cervelo Aspero for use on-road. any comments or advice before I pull trigger?
I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...
HUB
Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub
Front Axle: 12 / 100mm
Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm
Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S
Spoke Head: Straight pull
Brake System: Center lock
Hub Color: Black
Front Holes Count: 24H
Rear Holes Count: 24H
Ratchet: 56T
SPOKES/NIPPLES
Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides
Nipple: Aluminium Black
RIM
Brake System: Disc
Version: Flyweight
Bead type: Hook
Finish: Paintless
Weave: UD
Rim Warranty: 5 Years
Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes
Drain Hole: No Drain Holes
Why no drain holes? They cost nothing, have no downside and you don't have to mess with water inside the rim, which can, in the worst case, even corrode the nipples.
Enid: Scott Addict RC Ultimate Team Ed - 7.2 kg (in. pedals and bottle cages)
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 9:29 am
Carbon Ti are lighter and cheaper than DT 180, 24h/24h were the only options on the wheel builder.kompromesso wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:20 amCarbon Ti hubs are extremely noisy. Why 24/24 spokes? How much do you weigh?steamroller wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:17 amOk guys, here is the WR50 wheelset build I'm looking to get to fit my Cervelo Aspero for use on-road. any comments or advice before I pull trigger?
I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...
HUB
Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub
Front Axle: 12 / 100mm
Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm
Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S
Spoke Head: Straight pull
Brake System: Center lock
Hub Color: Black
Front Holes Count: 24H
Rear Holes Count: 24H
Ratchet: 56T
SPOKES/NIPPLES
Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides
Nipple: Aluminium Black
RIM
Brake System: Disc
Version: Flyweight
Bead type: Hook
Finish: Paintless
Weave: UD
Rim Warranty: 5 Years
Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes
Drain Hole: No Drain Holes
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 9:29 am
Will water get in through the spokes from the outside? If that's the case then drain holes it is!
Yes, water will enter througn the nipples.
What's your current wheel's ID width? 25mm ID is very wide for road. I'm using 25mm ID rims for gravel with 40mm tires mounted. For road I'm using 21mm ID and 32mm tires. I feel that my setups are perfect. If you mount a narrow tire on too wide of a rim your tire's sidewalls will be vulnerable to cuts from road debris. Amd you'll be cornering on the tires' sidewalls.
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What's your current wheel's ID width? 25mm ID is very wide for road. I'm using 25mm ID rims for gravel with 40mm tires mounted. For road I'm using 21mm ID and 32mm tires. I feel that my setups are perfect. If you mount a narrow tire on too wide of a rim your tire's sidewalls will be vulnerable to cuts from road debris. Amd you'll be cornering on the tires' sidewalls.
Sent from my KFMAWI using Tapatalk
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