Light Bicycle wheel rims?

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
Orbital
Posts: 355
Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2018 12:52 am
Location: Pitt Meadows, BC

by Orbital

I’ve been running Vittoria Corsa G+ on my LB wheels for over a year now. They’re almost at end of life and I have Corsa 2.0 ready to go on. Never had any issues with the G+. Not even a flat.

by Weenie


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frnchy
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2021 5:30 am
Location: CO

by frnchy

Mr.Gib wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 11:19 pm
frnchy wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 12:31 am
...
This is a big deal and thanks for the warning.
A a few questions: what pressure were you running, what was the temperature at the time, and is that a standard butyl inner tube in there? I assume that yellow cord is the kevlar tire bead that has escaped from its cloth "envelope"? No tear in the cloth, just opened at the edge? Those are Falcon Pros? They look really nice.

One of the things I like about cloth tires is that they should be less affected by heat in the bead area. But this one clearly came unglued. My guess is that it is totally a tire issue. Not that there should be a heat issue with disc wheels.

I find this so disturbing as I run a lot of Vittoria on rim brake bikes which in theory should make them even more susceptible to this type of failure. OTOH, I can't recall this type of failure with Vittoria before, seen it plenty with other brands though. Hopefully it's a one-off.
-pressure =~55-60 psi
-temp =~80 F (that's what my wahoo recorded; at the road surface, add a dozen degrees or so. I've ridden in considerably hotter conditions with no issues though)
-tube = panaracer r-air, no patches, nearly new

What's visible in the second pic is the bead, and the damage is as you say - the cloth enveloping the bead came unglued (see pic below, it's crappy but you can see the glue/bead/cloth interface). I've put this tire through quite some gravel abuse, but as noted before I haven't seen any sidewall damage as a result, and I inspect my tires fairly frequently.

The rims and bead hooks are completely undamaged. The worst I had to do was wipe off the talc from the inner tube.

Image

frostorama
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2019 8:29 pm

by frostorama

5DII wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:36 pm
My new wheels arrived today
DT240 hubs
It shows "408" rather than 308 vs 318
Anyone else have this and know whether or not it's a revised version or an defective version of the hubs?
Defective, any hub with a zero in that position is one of the potentially defective EXP hubs, anything other than a zero is fine.

User avatar
pdlpsher1
Posts: 3453
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Location: CO

by pdlpsher1

frostorama wrote:
Tue Sep 14, 2021 4:27 pm
5DII wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:36 pm
My new wheels arrived today
DT240 hubs
It shows "408" rather than 308 vs 318
Anyone else have this and know whether or not it's a revised version or an defective version of the hubs?
Defective, any hub with a zero in that position is one of the potentially defective EXP hubs, anything other than a zero is fine.
Not necessarily defective. DT Swiss has shipped out upgrade kits to wheelbuilders and some wheelbuilders have swapped out the defective parts on hubs with bad serial numbers. Unfortunately there's no easy way to check the part to confirm it. The new rachet has a shinier finish on it but unless you have the old part side by side one cannot tell. Perhaps sending an inquiry to LB would help.

Cyclingintherain
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Nov 22, 2020 12:11 pm

by Cyclingintherain

5DII wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:36 pm
My new wheels arrived today
DT240 hubs
It shows "408" rather than 308 vs 318
Anyone else have this and know whether or not it's a revised version or an defective version of the hubs?
This is the link that LB send me when I asked. All the info is there.
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/ratchet-exp- ... nce-notice
Also a very good video here:

https://youtu.be/TeZXukqzon4

Mine had the serial number with a potential issue but had not failed yet. DT Swiss send me the parts and the change out was done in 30mins. But you also have the option to go to a DT Swiss service partner near you. But they will explain once you make contact with them.

Mr.Gib
Posts: 4501
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Location: eh?

by Mr.Gib

frnchy wrote:
Tue Sep 14, 2021 5:08 am
Mr.Gib wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 11:19 pm
frnchy wrote:
Mon Sep 13, 2021 12:31 am
...
This is a big deal and thanks for the warning.
A a few questions: what pressure were you running, what was the temperature at the time, and is that a standard butyl inner tube in there? I assume that yellow cord is the kevlar tire bead that has escaped from its cloth "envelope"? No tear in the cloth, just opened at the edge? Those are Falcon Pros? They look really nice.

One of the things I like about cloth tires is that they should be less affected by heat in the bead area. But this one clearly came unglued. My guess is that it is totally a tire issue. Not that there should be a heat issue with disc wheels.

I find this so disturbing as I run a lot of Vittoria on rim brake bikes which in theory should make them even more susceptible to this type of failure. OTOH, I can't recall this type of failure with Vittoria before, seen it plenty with other brands though. Hopefully it's a one-off.
-pressure =~55-60 psi
-temp =~80 F (that's what my wahoo recorded; at the road surface, add a dozen degrees or so. I've ridden in considerably hotter conditions with no issues though)
-tube = panaracer r-air, no patches, nearly new

What's visible in the second pic is the bead, and the damage is as you say - the cloth enveloping the bead came unglued (see pic below, it's crappy but you can see the glue/bead/cloth interface). I've put this tire through quite some gravel abuse, but as noted before I haven't seen any sidewall damage as a result, and I inspect my tires fairly frequently.

The rims and bead hooks are completely undamaged. The worst I had to do was wipe off the talc from the inner tube.

Image
Is it possible that the "envelope" that held the bead suffered enough abrasion to cause the glue to fail? That area does look quite worn - maybe from flexing and moving a bit inside the rim at low pressure during gravel use? Perhaps the interior finish of the rim is a bit rough and abrasive compared to alloy? Just a theory. I have a set of those wheels (and another set on the way) but I usually bin my tires when they are at what most people would consider 50% worn.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

User avatar
pdlpsher1
Posts: 3453
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Location: CO

by pdlpsher1

Yeah, it does look like abrasion along the bead had cut the casing. Does the rim hook feel sharp? I have personally witnessed a badly manufactured Roval aluminum rim that had cut the casing on a pretty new GP4k tire, causing the tire to fail. So I do know this issue is real and can happen.

berest
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2019 11:23 pm

by berest

Hi everybody,

Would you recommend me to use standard DT Pro Lock brass nipples vs DT Pro Head nipples(tha same as Sapim Polyax) for building the wheelset on AR46 rims? I would pick the regular ones, but not sure if there's an angles that requires more rounded shape like Pro Head's.

Thanks

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pdlpsher1
Posts: 3453
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Location: CO

by pdlpsher1

The rounded heads like the Polyax are better. It distributes the force over a greater area.


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berest
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2019 11:23 pm

by berest

In theory - yes. But practically - using the rounded nipples on a wheel that doesn't have much spoke angle would put more stress on the rim hole edges than a flatter profile nipple would.

Tofanator
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2018 7:24 am

by Tofanator

jas0nt wrote:
Fri Aug 27, 2021 2:54 pm
Tofanator wrote:
Thu Aug 26, 2021 9:39 am
jas0nt wrote:
Thu Aug 26, 2021 1:29 am
Tofanator wrote:
Sat Aug 21, 2021 12:20 pm


Matt UD
My rims will enter the QC process this weekend. Then wheel build next week, delivery end of next week. I assume yours will be in the same batch.
Very good! Thanks for that,
Then a few weeks to land in Aus I'd imagine
My rims went from 'Painting' back to 'Sanding'... now they're on 'Processing'. No idea what's going on...

Edit: Now they are on 'Building' :beerchug:
Mine arrived today!

Placed the order on the 30th July so that's roughly 7 weeks start to finish

steamroller
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 9:29 am

by steamroller

Ok guys, here is the WR50 wheelset build I'm looking to get to fit my Cervelo Aspero for use on-road. any comments or advice before I pull trigger?

I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...

HUB

Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub

Front Axle: 12 / 100mm

Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm

Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S

Spoke Head: Straight pull

Brake System: Center lock

Hub Color: Black

Front Holes Count: 24H

Rear Holes Count: 24H

Ratchet: 56T

SPOKES/NIPPLES

Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides

Nipple: Aluminium Black

RIM

Brake System: Disc

Version: Flyweight

Bead type: Hook

Finish: Paintless

Weave: UD

Rim Warranty: 5 Years

Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes

Drain Hole: No Drain Holes

kompromesso
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2021 10:25 am

by kompromesso

steamroller wrote:
Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:17 am
Ok guys, here is the WR50 wheelset build I'm looking to get to fit my Cervelo Aspero for use on-road. any comments or advice before I pull trigger?

I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...

HUB

Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub

Front Axle: 12 / 100mm

Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm

Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S

Spoke Head: Straight pull

Brake System: Center lock

Hub Color: Black

Front Holes Count: 24H

Rear Holes Count: 24H

Ratchet: 56T

SPOKES/NIPPLES

Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides

Nipple: Aluminium Black

RIM

Brake System: Disc

Version: Flyweight

Bead type: Hook

Finish: Paintless

Weave: UD

Rim Warranty: 5 Years

Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes

Drain Hole: No Drain Holes
Carbon Ti hubs are extremely noisy. Why 24/24 spokes? How much do you weigh?

ddddd1
Posts: 89
Joined: Sun May 03, 2020 1:34 pm

by ddddd1

Why no drain holes? They cost nothing, have no downside and you don't have to mess with water inside the rim, which can, in the worst case, even corrode the nipples.
Enid: Scott Addict RC Ultimate Team Ed - 7.2 kg (in. pedals and bottle cages)

steamroller
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2021 9:29 am

by steamroller

kompromesso wrote:
Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:20 am
steamroller wrote:
Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:17 am
Ok guys, here is the WR50 wheelset build I'm looking to get to fit my Cervelo Aspero for use on-road. any comments or advice before I pull trigger?

I'm guessing I don't need the drain holes, but welcome any advice as I have no idea what the point of those is...

HUB

Hub Brand: Carbon-Ti X-Hub

Front Axle: 12 / 100mm

Rear Axle: 12 / 142mm

Freehub Body: Shimano Road 11S

Spoke Head: Straight pull

Brake System: Center lock

Hub Color: Black

Front Holes Count: 24H

Rear Holes Count: 24H

Ratchet: 56T

SPOKES/NIPPLES

Spoke: Sapim CX Sprint-Rear drive side/ CX Ray-Other sides

Nipple: Aluminium Black

RIM

Brake System: Disc

Version: Flyweight

Bead type: Hook

Finish: Paintless

Weave: UD

Rim Warranty: 5 Years

Center Channel Hole: No Access Holes

Drain Hole: No Drain Holes
Carbon Ti hubs are extremely noisy. Why 24/24 spokes? How much do you weigh?
Carbon Ti are lighter and cheaper than DT 180, 24h/24h were the only options on the wheel builder.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



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