I have, works great (with the right tyres). Waiting for the AR465 hookless mold to try a set.
Light Bicycle wheel rims?
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
- musiclover
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I have retired from this forum, not wasting any more time here.
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I have a hookless AR36 wheelset built in 2016. Have run them with GP4000 28mm, Specialized Turbo 28mm, and Rene Herse 28mm, all with tubes, 60psi. Roll very nicely.pmprego wrote:Has anyone gone hookless for road around here? Any feedback? Thanks
Are we talking about the same? Hookless requires tubeless ready tires and you mention non tubeless tires.
For the wr model, lb recommends 50 psi as maximum for hookless. It does seem really low. Especially compared with other hookless manufacturers. I wonder why they place such a low maximum psi limit.
Does anyone has experience with these at those low psi?
Back in 2016 I’m not sure there were any tyre recommendations to only run tubeless on these rims. I’m sharing what worked for me, for 2 years of road riding. Now that tubeless tyres are more common ive moved to tubeless and I’m now running WR on my road bike. But my WR are hooked. If you want to go hookless and tubeless I would stay strictly with the recommended tyre models that have been tested.pmprego wrote:Are we talking about the same? Hookless requires tubeless ready tires and you mention non tubeless tires.
For the wr model, lb recommends 50 psi as maximum for hookless. It does seem really low. Does anyone has experience with these at those low psi?
I pump by Corsa 28’s up to 70psi, based on the Silca tyre pressure calculator for weight and road surface. When ive not checked tyre pressure prior to riding Ive ridden as low as 40psi on several occasions, no issues.
Nice. For hooked they say one can go up to 80psi which I think it's normal. It's just the hookless maximum that seems low.emotive wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 7:01 amBack in 2016 I’m not sure there were any tyre recommendations to only run tubeless on these rims. I’m sharing what worked for me, for 2 years of road riding. Now that tubeless tyres are more common ive moved to tubeless and I’m now running WR on my road bike. But my WR are hooked. If you want to go hookless and tubeless I would stay strictly with the recommended tyre models that have been tested.pmprego wrote:Are we talking about the same? Hookless requires tubeless ready tires and you mention non tubeless tires.
For the wr model, lb recommends 50 psi as maximum for hookless. It does seem really low. Does anyone has experience with these at those low psi?
I pump by Corsa 28’s up to 70psi, based on the Silca tyre pressure calculator for weight and road surface. When ive not checked tyre pressure prior to riding Ive ridden as low as 40psi on several occasions, no issues.
Accoeding to several calculators and recommendations for my weight and 28c tires I'd be running at 55psi or so. Not that much the lb limit for hookless.
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Hi everyone! first post here. I received my R55 rim brake wheels with DT350 hubs (and stock pillar 18/24 spokes) and have been riding them since early May this year. After about 700km worth of rides since then, the rear wheel has gone quite out of true. I am a bit puzzled by this because of all the reviews stating how bombproof these wheels were; I am not particularly heavy myself at 72kg, I ride on decent roads here whilst avoiding potholes and the like, and am just a relatively casual cyclist. Would this be some sort of defect? A bit disappointed at how fast the rear wheel went out of true so fast..
Nothing to worry about. More then likely a little settling of spoke tension or perhaps a spoke or two has "unwound". To test this yourself simply tap each spoke with an allen key and listen to the note. No doubt there will be a couple of low notes. If you do not know how to true a wheel yourself just head to a reliable wheel person and get them to retension the wheel. The wheel will be better than new - not an expression, it really will be better.rotundotund wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 8:25 amHi everyone! first post here. I received my R55 rim brake wheels with DT350 hubs (and stock pillar 18/24 spokes) and have been riding them since early May this year. After about 700km worth of rides since then, the rear wheel has gone quite out of true. I am a bit puzzled by this because of all the reviews stating how bombproof these wheels were; I am not particularly heavy myself at 72kg, I ride on decent roads here whilst avoiding potholes and the like, and am just a relatively casual cyclist. Would this be some sort of defect? A bit disappointed at how fast the rear wheel went out of true so fast..
For what it's worth Lightbicycle is not perfect when it comes to tensions on their builds. I have had to touch up both my LB wheelset on arrival. Farsports (two wheelsets) has been better in this regard. Their tensions have been a touch higher and more even. Perhaps it comes down to the individual who builds the wheel or who does QC, but these are my findings.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
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Ooo that is great information and reassuring to hear! I will bring it to a wheelbuilder then. Thank you so much!!Mr.Gib wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 5:23 pmNothing to worry about. More then likely a little settling of spoke tension or perhaps a spoke or two has "unwound". To test this yourself simply tap each spoke with an allen key and listen to the note. No doubt there will be a couple of low notes. If you do not know how to true a wheel yourself just head to a reliable wheel person and get them to retension the wheel. The wheel will be better than new - not an expression, it really will be better.rotundotund wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 8:25 amHi everyone! first post here. I received my R55 rim brake wheels with DT350 hubs (and stock pillar 18/24 spokes) and have been riding them since early May this year. After about 700km worth of rides since then, the rear wheel has gone quite out of true. I am a bit puzzled by this because of all the reviews stating how bombproof these wheels were; I am not particularly heavy myself at 72kg, I ride on decent roads here whilst avoiding potholes and the like, and am just a relatively casual cyclist. Would this be some sort of defect? A bit disappointed at how fast the rear wheel went out of true so fast..
For what it's worth Lightbicycle is not perfect when it comes to tensions on their builds. I have had to touch up both my LB wheelset on arrival. Farsports (two wheelsets) has been better in this regard. Their tensions have been a touch higher and more even. Perhaps it comes down to the individual who builds the wheel or who does QC, but these are my findings.
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Sadly also not too happy with my AR55 Pro either, after only having them for about 1 month, driven 1200km. My rear wheel cracked last weekend in a group ride. Was a bit of an uneven road, not the worst of kinds but by all means not great. The wheels should survive in my opinion, driven by Pirelli P Zero Race TLR tubeless. Nothing could have been done, the sealant came out. Very unlucky, all the other drivers were fine....
Let's hope I can get it fixed soon, having to wait 3 months for this set. Either with good insurrance or crash replacement. But having to wait another 3 months for a new rim, would be
Let's hope I can get it fixed soon, having to wait 3 months for this set. Either with good insurrance or crash replacement. But having to wait another 3 months for a new rim, would be
Same thing happened with my winspace rims when putting tire on using plastic leversMrRolandos wrote:Sadly also not too happy with my AR55 Pro either, after only having them for about 1 month, driven 1200km. My rear wheel cracked last weekend in a group ride. Was a bit of an uneven road, not the worst of kinds but by all means not great. The wheels should survive in my opinion, driven by Pirelli P Zero Race TLR tubeless. Nothing could have been done, the sealant came out. Very unlucky, all the other drivers were fine....
Let's hope I can get it fixed soon, having to wait 3 months for this set. Either with good insurrance or crash replacement. But having to wait another 3 months for a new rim, would be
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That shouldn't happen tho... It looks like outside damage only, I'm driving another meter with it tho, don't wanna risk them collapsing on me. Very sad day.jzinckgra wrote: ↑Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:14 pmSame thing happened with my winspace rims when putting tire on using plastic leversMrRolandos wrote:Sadly also not too happy with my AR55 Pro either, after only having them for about 1 month, driven 1200km. My rear wheel cracked last weekend in a group ride. Was a bit of an uneven road, not the worst of kinds but by all means not great. The wheels should survive in my opinion, driven by Pirelli P Zero Race TLR tubeless. Nothing could have been done, the sealant came out. Very unlucky, all the other drivers were fine....
WhatsApp Image 2021-06-26 at 15.46.36 (1).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-06-26 at 15.46.36.jpeg
Let's hope I can get it fixed soon, having to wait 3 months for this set. Either with good insurrance or crash replacement. But having to wait another 3 months for a new rim, would be
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- musiclover
- Posts: 494
- Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2019 11:58 pm
Featherwheight or normal?
What was your tyre pressure?
Really?! Is it a common occurrence? Did you get a replacement?
I have retired from this forum, not wasting any more time here.
I M O... Just ridiculous... The issue with a "new" wheelset.rotundotund wrote: ↑Tue Jun 29, 2021 5:20 amOoo that is great information and reassuring to hear! I will bring it to a wheelbuilder then. Thank you so much!!Mr.Gib wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 5:23 pmNothing to worry about. More then likely a little settling of spoke tension or perhaps a spoke or two has "unwound". To test this yourself simply tap each spoke with an allen key and listen to the note. No doubt there will be a couple of low notes. If you do not know how to true a wheel yourself just head to a reliable wheel person and get them to retension the wheel. The wheel will be better than new - not an expression, it really will be better.rotundotund wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 8:25 amHi everyone! first post here. I received my R55 rim brake wheels with DT350 hubs (and stock pillar 18/24 spokes) and have been riding them since early May this year. After about 700km worth of rides since then, the rear wheel has gone quite out of true. I am a bit puzzled by this because of all the reviews stating how bombproof these wheels were; I am not particularly heavy myself at 72kg, I ride on decent roads here whilst avoiding potholes and the like, and am just a relatively casual cyclist. Would this be some sort of defect? A bit disappointed at how fast the rear wheel went out of true so fast..
For what it's worth Lightbicycle is not perfect when it comes to tensions on their builds. I have had to touch up both my LB wheelset on arrival. Farsports (two wheelsets) has been better in this regard. Their tensions have been a touch higher and more even. Perhaps it comes down to the individual who builds the wheel or who does QC, but these are my findings.
Do take care on finding a wheelbuilder. Lots of people tighten spokes and less and less of them are competent at doing so. Suggest finding someone who actually builds wheels as a business or a sideline.. who knows what they're doing.
You could well learn to do it yourself, it is not rocket science. A little patience goes a long ways.
24H rear... Requires very firm tension on the drive side to get enough tension on the left side so the nips will not shake loose. I think if you tap the spokes especially on the left side like mentioned previously you're going to hear a wide range of tones. To spoke threads especially on the left side should have some kind of a sealant to prevent them from moving once secured.
I believe almost nothing I read and 'hear'
I believe roughly half of what I see with my own eyes.. in person.
I do not carbon.. anything
I believe roughly half of what I see with my own eyes.. in person.
I do not carbon.. anything
I see what looks like some scratches. Is it possible the edge of the rim caught a small rock on the road? That would be an unusual type of failure with zero impact. What size tires? What pressure?MrRolandos wrote: ↑Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:14 pmSadly also not too happy with my AR55 Pro either, after only having them for about 1 month, driven 1200km. My rear wheel cracked last weekend in a group ride. Was a bit of an uneven road, not the worst of kinds but by all means not great. The wheels should survive in my opinion, driven by Pirelli P Zero Race TLR tubeless. Nothing could have been done, the sealant came out. Very unlucky, all the other drivers were fine....
WhatsApp Image 2021-06-26 at 15.46.36 (1).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-06-26 at 15.46.36.jpeg
Let's hope I can get it fixed soon, having to wait 3 months for this set. Either with good insurrance or crash replacement. But having to wait another 3 months for a new rim, would be
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com