Titanium or steel freehub body for DT hubs?

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grover
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by grover

I skimmed the thread. Didn't see this mentioned. Apologies if it did.

Campag and Shimano/SRAM 11 speed cassettes are the same spacing now. You could put a Campag freehub body on your DT hubs and use Campag cassettes. They don't guage due to the deeper splines.

But not the perfect solution you're after. I use WI hubs now too for that reason.

pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

ergott wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:34 pm
PS for all Shimano's attention to good engineering they shat the bed with their flange placement on Dura Ace hubs (9100). There's a very significant resulting tension difference between the sides requiring I high minimum tension on the right to make for acceptable tension on the left. They essentially shifted both flanges over 1.8mm and didn't rethink left flange placement. Rims with a low max tension will have a problem.

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I think it's about time that Shimano puts the cassette on the other side :D

Joking aside, do you think the better solution to the problem would be 2:1 lacing? I'm surprised that the 'large three' haven't come out with a rear hub that supports 2:1 lacing. I see many benefits. I think once they introduce the hubs more rim manufacturers will follow with 2:1 lacing rims.

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ergott
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by ergott

The make some of their factory wheels that way. Not the hubs separate

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NickJHP
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by NickJHP

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Wed Feb 14, 2018 1:38 am
Joking aside, do you think the better solution to the problem would be 2:1 lacing? I'm surprised that the 'large three' haven't come out with a rear hub that supports 2:1 lacing.
Campagnolo certainly use that spoking pattern on their factory wheels - I have some Eurus wheels that use 21 spokes in the rear wheel with 14 spokes x2 on the drive side and seven radial spokes on the non-drive side.

You could achieve the same 2:1 spoking with a 24-spoke rim on a 32-spoke hub. Calculating the needed spoke lengths would be a bit of an exercise, though.

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mattr
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by mattr

sungod wrote:
Wed Feb 14, 2018 12:07 am
You know that shimano cassettes gouge light alloy hubs, it's not the fault of the hub, it's not the fault of the cassette, they simply aren't compatible
It's the fault of the hub. Any shimano cassette will fit on any shimano hub (with certain speed related caveats, 10/11 etc) and not notch it, at all. Even the lowest spec cassettes won't notch D-A hubs.
Because they fulfill the requirements of the system. Light alloy doesn't.

mattr
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by mattr

ergott wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:23 pm
The Sram design has one set of teeth/splines that are significantly wider and don't gouge aluminium freehubs in the middle cogs like Shimano (and to be fair lower end Sram). The result is a lighter system maintaining Shimano's standard.
I'd not call what correctly fitted high end shimano cassettes do to freehubs actually notching, more like marking the surface. I've never had any issues just sliding them off. Unless the lock rings come loose. Then i've had an XT sprocket cut through a spline completely........
ergott wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:23 pm
I also agree that Campagnolo cheated on their design. Deeper splines limits bearing dimensions inside the freehub. I practice I don't know just how much performance or durability is lost, but yes larger bearings are nice if you can make it work.
Quite a lot, place i used to work had a B10 bearing life calculator (for predictive servicing of machines) and the difference will be significant. Can't remember the details, but it's something along the lines of halving the ball size will (approximately) quarter the life then you gain by having more balls.

mattr
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by mattr

ergott wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:34 pm
PS for all Shimano's attention to good engineering they shat the bed with their flange placement on Dura Ace hubs (9100). There's a very significant resulting tension difference between the sides requiring I high minimum tension on the right to make for acceptable tension on the left. They essentially shifted both flanges over 1.8mm and didn't rethink left flange placement. Rims with a low max tension will have a problem.
Do you play around much with different cross spoking on either side? We did some FEA work on spoked wheels on the sly at work a good few years ago and (back then) doing 2x drive and 3x idle actually gave a more even tension. It's how i still do my wheels now and seems to give good results (better than the 3x/3x wheels i have bought anyway).

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ergott
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by ergott

I have played around with patterns and that one does make sense. I haven't had any particular pattern perform worse than another so I think the differences are very small. Theoretically that 3X/2X does work better, but I don't remember how much of an increase in left tension you have as a result.

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