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One question, don't you find it a shame you can't use such a light weight bike in mountainous regions, since you have only one chainring up front?
Check it out: the most amazing vintage Colnago, Merckx and Pinarello collection
- Posts: 5428
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 4:43 pm
- Location: Wherever there's a mountain beckoning to be climbed
it was some month now that i was active here but the bike still exists and i made some small weight savings.
In the spring i ordered dugast tires but still didn´t got them. Just ordered some Tufo < 195 and will try out them to see how they work.
Right now the bike looks like on the last picture and weighs 4138g with the tufo < 215 at the rear as i punctured my the rear vittoria last week.
I still did not make any new parts for the rear derailleur but will start with this soon again.
But changed a bit on that derailleur i have on right now an got it down to 85g inclusive the carbon-wirehousing at the back.
The last parts i made are new complete brakepads and each side inkluding an aluminium screw weighs in at 2,4g
Will do some for the frontbrake as well but they will get a bit wider and longer as the rear ones.
about the question with the hills - i got no big hills at my place, could go 1000km in any direction without having any trouble with my one chainring. if i would do a journey to the alps or something like that i could easily change the bike so i have 2 chainrings as i have all the parts at home.
about the pedals i just copy a text i wrote on fairwheelbikes today as it says just the same.
I really like the pedals.
They feel quality and are made nicely and are looking good.
I´ve got the 5° version.
The first time i clicked in i was surprised how easy it was and i had no big problem to find the pedals at all – and if you would have some trouble to find the pedal you can just put the cleat a bit in front of the pedal and pull back and click in.
The only trouble i had was at the first day as i tryed to start at a little hill. Got a bit stressed and the problem is that you can not get power into the pedal before you clicked in. Toke me a minute to start. But now as i got used to these i do not see a big problem any more for my uses.
To click out again it need some training. It is not hard or so just need the right technic to do. You shell not use some power to click out as then it will not work in the begining and when you get out you will flip into the frame a bit as you pull to the inside. But if you do it right it will be really easy and smooth.
At my first days with the pedal i had to remember myself again and again and got a bit stressed but lost this feeling and do not think about it any longer.
Riding with the pedals was nothing special – or if i put it in other words, as you go along you will forget them quit fast as there is nothing special in the feeling other than it feels really light!
But they are stiff and the 5° feels not bad at all for me. The place were you can have the cleats on the shoes (you can not pull them to the front/back as far as other cleats) fits me well and i do not roll ore flip my feet as i pedal. But i guess that the pedals do not fit for everybody.
To learn these pedals is as easy like to learn the “normal” system and as more you use them so more you get used to them. I just have this one bike and gave my old speedplays to a friend of mine and can not say something about how it works if you get confused if you use other pedals as well. I guess that there would not be a problem if you know how to use both pedals. (maybe the same like that you can get confused that there are no brakelevers at the upperpart of the lever on a roadbike when you come from an MTB. Or like you try to look in the mirror when cycling after going with the car – the problem exist but are no real problem)
Like i said i really like the pedals and decided after the second day that these will stay on the bike. I am even impressed how slow the cleats wear out when going. There is a big difference to Aerolite for example. You can see a bit of wear on the outside of course but this will not be much and it is no problem for using the pedals as in difference to Aerolite the pedals is deeper in to the cleat.
Here is the partlist for right now, the bikeweight is from the scale.
- Stevens SLC Frame (`56 – 2009 – made some changes and took the paint off) + NLB Saddle and Seatpost which i build in to the Frame + Fuchs chainguiard = 904g
- Ritchey WCS Carbon Fork (paintless – 194mm Steerer – part of the headset glued in place) = 252g
- FSA Headset (changed a bit – Corparni cap) = 52g
- Coparni Prototype Stem (-8grad – 100mm) = 64g
- Schmolke TLO Bar ordered for my needs (400mm – Ergo Form – 144g) + Fuchs Brakelever (70g – are one part with the bar) = 214g
- BTP Shifter (shortened – Fuchs nylonparts + alu screw) = 3g
- Velox Tressorex Cotton Bartape (just at the top of the Bar – with a seam to hold it in place) = 17g
- Zipp 300 Crank (without paint – 172,5mm) = 296g
- XX-Light Bottombraket (tuned – 108mm) = 118g
- Fiberlyte Chainring (tuned/Style2/53-130/Singel) = 51g
- Zipp Chainring-bolts + Carbonspacer = 9g
- Ultralight Cirrus Ti Pedals = 71g
- PYC 11 Chain (108 Glieder) = 212g
- Nino Titan Cassette (11-20 10x – tuned with other Nino sprockets + Fuchs Carbonsprockets + Carbonspacer + Alu Lockring ) = 93g
- Lightweight Ventoux Frontwheel = 439g
- Lightweight Ventoux Backwheel (tuned with DT190 parts) = 588g
- Tune Skewers = 17g
- tufo < 215 + Veloflex Servizio Corse = ca 430g (forgot to have them on the scale
- Fuchs Derailleur (mixed from Fuchs Parts and some Tiso Parts + Extralite Pulleys) = 85g
- AX Lightness Brakes + Fuchs Brakepads = 107g
- Fuchs + I-Link Cables = 79g
- Fuchs Bottlecage + Alu Bolts = 8g (x2 on warm/long rides)
- Extras (Glue – Air and so on) = ca 21g
hole Bike = 4138g
Check it out: the most amazing vintage Colnago, Merckx and Pinarello collection
The same with the function are the tires. would love to ride tires like tufo < 160 like friends of mine do. But my roads are not always the best and my weight isn´t it as well and i get to much punctures with the light tires. I think i´m stuck to tires around 200g as they always works ok (tufo, veloflex and so on)
Hope the tufo < 190 will do well for me.
On the headset i changed the aluminium-cones at the bottom and top to other ones which i then tuned a lot.
Then i toke the top of the headset away so that the cone over the bearing is the last part of the headset. Would like to get some ceramic bearings as well.
At the frame i toke away some material from the bearingcups. The expander is now an carbon-shims with an aluminium threadinsert glued in place in the fork instead of that heavy original expander.
With all that i did not just get the weight down, i even got the stack height down by around 5-8mm which mean a shorter forksteerer and a better ridingposition for me
- with the tufo < 195 i should save ~ 35g
- new brakepads at the front ~ 5g
- powercordz for the complete bike ~ ?
- tuning the brakes with mixed alu/carbon-axel at the rear,carbon springs, carbon-"wireholder"... ~ 20g
- rear derailleur ~ 50g
- thm fork ~ 30g
- changing the frame so it work with bb30 ~ ? (there is a lot of aluminium to go)
- new cranks ~ ?
- tuning the LW ~ 60g
- ceramic headset bearings ~ ?
It is kind of an list and i do not know how fast i will do all this but it will happen and i hope to get the sub4 this year... :rolleyes:
I should have the tufo tires tomorrow and the cabels are on their way as well.
Then i even startet to install the Powercordz for the brakes and even changed the golden part on the housing to a black one in the same design. looks more stealth but still a bit classy and goes with the carbonhousing i´ve got on the rear derailleur.
Still not ready with all this changes but had the bike on the scale with the parts and are around 4080g with all this changes
Thats the only difference on the routing - that it is a stable pipe and not a normal soft housing and as it is stable it sits completely on the derailleur - but as the derailleur never change its place it is always the same shifting.
Hope you understand how it is?