Scott Hlill Climb bike 7.0 lbs
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The cable tubing is plastic pnuematic tubing. And no it doesn' have the copmressive strenth of
alum. etc. it doesn't seem to hinder shift performance or cave in. You can Squeeze the brake lever way past pad contact
but no collapse. we'll have to wait on the road testing for that.
The crank is BB30, the frame is Shimano integrated. So I made turcite bearings and pinned then into the frame ad put a tungsten disulfide coating on the aluminum spinles for wear and friction.
alum. etc. it doesn't seem to hinder shift performance or cave in. You can Squeeze the brake lever way past pad contact
but no collapse. we'll have to wait on the road testing for that.
The crank is BB30, the frame is Shimano integrated. So I made turcite bearings and pinned then into the frame ad put a tungsten disulfide coating on the aluminum spinles for wear and friction.
AEROLITUS-defender of the faith
How is the bushing BB system holding up durability and maintainance wise?
What might work better (if designed from scratch) is to have a 2 piece wedge so the bushing isn't running on the Al axle but rather another piece of bushing, and you can preload/adjust it like cup and cone bearings. Clearly needs more space than a BB30 axle in a standard BB shell.
You could do an axle for SISL that could do that and not affect q factor etc.
What might work better (if designed from scratch) is to have a 2 piece wedge so the bushing isn't running on the Al axle but rather another piece of bushing, and you can preload/adjust it like cup and cone bearings. Clearly needs more space than a BB30 axle in a standard BB shell.
You could do an axle for SISL that could do that and not affect q factor etc.
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gregclimbs
- Posts: 627
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- Location: slc, ut
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wally318 wrote:I'm done showing the bike around. Next I'll glue on some heavier veloflex and start the road testing.
You would be best served to keep the veloflex over the tufos...
looks like a nice mt. washington bike...
g
amazing looking bike - so clean. Good build!
Edit. No reason to repost same pic in response. Thanks! Powerful Pete
Wow , really beautiful and besides that so simple and light
Wow , really beautiful and besides that so simple and light
Well I finally got around to gluing some tires last night.
Did the first official road test today.
Here are my first impressions: Wheels feel rock solid. Couldn't see any lateral movement towards the pads while cruising.
Didn't notice any while standing, but couldn't really zone in on it. There were some other pressing issues clouding the
judgement. Thanks go out to Troy at Ligero, Well Done!
Frame/fork/cranks all felt solid.
By the time I got to some standing climbing I felt a skip at the back end and noticed that the LH threaded delrin
c assette lockring had spun loose, and probably let the cassette slide under load and tried to shift.
Probably have to machine one from 7075 and loctite it into place. As well, weill have to take a closer look around the
freehub assy. and see if there aren't any other things contributing.
When I stopped mid ride to spin the lockring back on I noticed the crank arms at the bottom bracket and the frame at the
bottom bracket was warm, and the slight play in the tucite bearings was gone. Which later built up to some serious friction.
To remedy I'd probably have to machine a couple new bearings, each with more clearance for thermal expansion, and
probably a couple sets to cover the full temp. range of 10-15C to 35C. I don't think it's worth it, to mess around getting
the pins out and putting new ones in and back and forth during the season.
So I'll probably go to ceranic hybrids. There I said it. So I guess you were right mythic. So is that offer for some ceramic
speed bearings still good?
Those were the major issues, as well as some smaller ones.
The front of the bike felt kinda weird, when standing. Couldn't tell if it's because it was so much lighter at the front
end than I'm use to or because the upturned bars are shorter than my regular bar/brake hoods combo. Or a bit too much
flex in the stem or a combination of several things.
The plastic pnuematic tubing is no good for braking. Even for that short run on the front it's way too squishy.
I couldn't imagine it for a rear brake run.
Although it worked real well on the rear derr.. It seemed to shift quite well but again, too many distractions.
I think the BTP shift lever is too short compared to my regular DT shifters. Which threw off some of the shifting feel.
So ther you have i. Now starts the de-bugging. And it looks like it'll probably gain a little weight over the winter.
But I'll put it on a diet before spring.
Did the first official road test today.
Here are my first impressions: Wheels feel rock solid. Couldn't see any lateral movement towards the pads while cruising.
Didn't notice any while standing, but couldn't really zone in on it. There were some other pressing issues clouding the
judgement. Thanks go out to Troy at Ligero, Well Done!
Frame/fork/cranks all felt solid.
By the time I got to some standing climbing I felt a skip at the back end and noticed that the LH threaded delrin
c assette lockring had spun loose, and probably let the cassette slide under load and tried to shift.
Probably have to machine one from 7075 and loctite it into place. As well, weill have to take a closer look around the
freehub assy. and see if there aren't any other things contributing.
When I stopped mid ride to spin the lockring back on I noticed the crank arms at the bottom bracket and the frame at the
bottom bracket was warm, and the slight play in the tucite bearings was gone. Which later built up to some serious friction.
To remedy I'd probably have to machine a couple new bearings, each with more clearance for thermal expansion, and
probably a couple sets to cover the full temp. range of 10-15C to 35C. I don't think it's worth it, to mess around getting
the pins out and putting new ones in and back and forth during the season.
So I'll probably go to ceranic hybrids. There I said it. So I guess you were right mythic. So is that offer for some ceramic
speed bearings still good?
Those were the major issues, as well as some smaller ones.
The front of the bike felt kinda weird, when standing. Couldn't tell if it's because it was so much lighter at the front
end than I'm use to or because the upturned bars are shorter than my regular bar/brake hoods combo. Or a bit too much
flex in the stem or a combination of several things.
The plastic pnuematic tubing is no good for braking. Even for that short run on the front it's way too squishy.
I couldn't imagine it for a rear brake run.
Although it worked real well on the rear derr.. It seemed to shift quite well but again, too many distractions.
I think the BTP shift lever is too short compared to my regular DT shifters. Which threw off some of the shifting feel.
So ther you have i. Now starts the de-bugging. And it looks like it'll probably gain a little weight over the winter.
But I'll put it on a diet before spring.
AEROLITUS-defender of the faith
What size/type of bearings are you looking to fit to the BB? It seems that full ceramic bearings still have a tendancy to crack even for BBs (see the "made in taiwan" build thread. Mind you can't comment on the brand or quality used.)
Would adding a grease port or wave washer help with the friction and preload on the BB bushing? I have throught of drilling joining holes at right angles to each other that would allow injection of grease from the outside of the bush that would then push its way along the bearing surface. The grease still in the port is then held in reserve and drawn onto the bearing surface in operation. Might be messy but a bushing BB is never going to be low maintainance!
Would adding a grease port or wave washer help with the friction and preload on the BB bushing? I have throught of drilling joining holes at right angles to each other that would allow injection of grease from the outside of the bush that would then push its way along the bearing surface. The grease still in the port is then held in reserve and drawn onto the bearing surface in operation. Might be messy but a bushing BB is never going to be low maintainance!
Technical Director at www.TUFFcycle.com
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synchronicity
- Posts: 2027
- Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 11:41 pm
- Location: Moruya, Australia
- Contact:
wally318 wrote:The plastic pnuematic tubing is no good for braking. Even for that short run on the front it's way too squishy.
I couldn't imagine it for a rear brake run.
Although it worked real well on the rear derr.. It seemed to shift quite well but again, too many distractions.
I was waiting a week to hear that.
It just goes to show that the stiffness of material that the housing is made from DOES make a huge difference in performance.Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
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Actually turcite is designed for no grease/oil. It has built in solid lubricant. It's the thermal expansion
that's the culprit. If you don't have enough clearance machined into the bushing you get too much friction.
And if you have enough for 35 C days then you'll have play at 10-15 C.
Wouldn't go full ceramic, hybrid seems the best choice.
that's the culprit. If you don't have enough clearance machined into the bushing you get too much friction.
And if you have enough for 35 C days then you'll have play at 10-15 C.
Wouldn't go full ceramic, hybrid seems the best choice.
AEROLITUS-defender of the faith
