Colnago C50 - NL12
Moderators: maxim809, MrCurrieinahurry, Moderator Team
I am disappointed because the bar doesnt have cable grooves and Prologo skin touch bartape is not nice to put on. It lacks elasticity.
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CrazyErrol
- Posts: 366
- Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:30 pm
I'm more concerned as to whether your cupboards are level and square.
Go all black, it will suit the frame. The White is too fussy. Bars look good, you moved the lever down?
Go all black, it will suit the frame. The White is too fussy. Bars look good, you moved the lever down?
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RichTheRoadie
- Tinker, Taylor, Tart
- Posts: 2197
- Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:00 pm
- Location: Sydney, Aus.
The levers didn't need moving down!! 
...I would try moving levers down a bit and then twisting bars up in order to create a flatter ramp between bar and lever/hood transition. The bottom of hooks parallel with top tube and stem is a bit old school and really doesn't work with how modern levers seem to be built to ride a bit higher on the bars...IMO.
On another note, I actually like the white accents on stem/bars, which match nicely with other subtle white accents on seat and frame.
EM3
On another note, I actually like the white accents on stem/bars, which match nicely with other subtle white accents on seat and frame.
EM3
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I actually went through 3 iterations of bar position before settling on this. The initial build had an 8mm spacer above the 3mm red "bling" spacer with a -17 degree 120mm stem. That gave me a 101mm saddle to handlebar drop. Proved to be a little too aggressive for me, so I took out the 8mm spacer, cut off the extra 8mm of steertube and replaced the 120mm -17 stem with a 120mm, -6 degree stem. That raised the bar enough but still felt like the position was wanting to push me back a bit. So, in the end I tried a 130mm, -6 degree rise (shown in pic above, kinda dark, sorry) which resulted in a saddle to handlebar drop of the current 88mm, which I'm really finding quite perfect. In the process I also increased the saddle setback by 4mm. Plenty aggressive, looks good, and handles great. The fine tuning has been the result of trial and error and lots of miles till you "get it right". You'll know when that is. Kind of have to be willing to try minor changes to get that perfect fit. And even then, the body is highly adaptable, to a point. I'll never sacrifice a good position to get a certain "look". But in this case, I think I've achieved both.
I generally like to keep the saddle to handlebar drop between 7 and 9cm.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Dont worry, the levers havent went down!!! 
The bartape needs to be changed for Deda carbon tape!
And the white line must be removed from the stem. I think I will only leave the "3T" on the top of it.
But before have to find out if I need 1 cm shorter stem.
bad pics, sorry
The bartape needs to be changed for Deda carbon tape!
And the white line must be removed from the stem. I think I will only leave the "3T" on the top of it.
But before have to find out if I need 1 cm shorter stem.
bad pics, sorry
Looks good, but it's gotta fit. Take it for some good rides now and see how you feel, back of the neck and so on. You suggest it might be too stretched out... how much longer is that setup than your old, do you know? What length stem is the 3T you've got on there now, is it the same as your old Deda stem? At this point, you are your own best judge. It looks good though, and I think it would look good with any of your stem options quite frankly. Go with the best fit. At least you don't have to stress about cutting any more steertube. Playing with different stems is easy. Almost there. I actually used some Fizik gel under my bar tape, because the fizik tape is very thin. I wrapped it tight and it feels really good and fattens up the bars a little bit too.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Thanks!
Its around 5-7 mm longer than before. But feels OK. Will try with 1 cm shorter stem anyway; so 110 mm. Yes, now is 120.
I dont like if the bar feels bulky. It must be thin and classic!
Playing a bit with colors. Seems to me that original is still the best
Its around 5-7 mm longer than before. But feels OK. Will try with 1 cm shorter stem anyway; so 110 mm. Yes, now is 120.
I dont like if the bar feels bulky. It must be thin and classic!
Playing a bit with colors. Seems to me that original is still the best
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I agree, those wheels are too high and need to be totally black!!
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I cant sleep, so I am playing a litlle bit
Concor Light (1996)
Concor Light (1996)
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(click 2 times on the pic for the right size)
Mavic Reflex/DT Swiss
Mavic Cosmic Carbone PRO
No decals
Mavic Reflex/DT Swiss
Mavic Cosmic Carbone PRO
No decals
No, they are from a friend of mine. Thinking to buy them from him.
I think its too much yellow for this bike.
Maybe two white Colnago decals on each side of the rim, same size as on top tube. What do you think?
I think its too much yellow for this bike.
Maybe two white Colnago decals on each side of the rim, same size as on top tube. What do you think?
