New VeloBuild R-068 build with weights and pics

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ehlpitel
Posts: 74
Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2021 3:53 pm

by ehlpitel

Hey guys and girls, my Cervelo P3 aero road bike conversion, while fast and fun had some annoying issues that I won't get into here. After building up a 6.5kg Emonda SL and hating it (and selling it at a loss), I was convinced that although I want a light bike, I need it to be aero. For better or worse, I'm poor, so I couldn't afford any name brand frames- even used they were too expensive. So I opted to do a ton of research and settled on VeloBuild and decided on what was allegedly their most aero rim brake frame- the 068. In the specs it said that a 54cm was 1050g so I figured that a 56cm would be light enough and lighter than both my Emonda SL frame (1150g) and the P3 frame (1250g). I pulled the trigger at the very end of June and got the frame at the beginning of August. I didn't make a spreadsheet but here's the list of weights based on the scale I have at my apartment.

-VB-R-068 frame in 56cm: 1276g
-VB uncut fork: 404.5g
-VB uncut aero seat-post: 192.1
-ICAN 38mm carbon clinchers: 1394g
-Bontrager R3 tires (non tubeless): 415g
-Continental/Bontrager tubes: 170g
-VB Headset: 130g
-BBR60 Shimano threaded BB: 75.6g
-Generic Amazon Ti QR skewers: 42.5g
-EC90 carbon stem (120mm/-7): 131.9g
-Selle carbon saddle clone: 97.5g
-Generic Amazon carbon aero drop bars (40cm): 184.1
-Dura-Ace 9100 shifters: 369.1g
-Ultegra R8000 FD: 90g
-Ultegra RX800 RD: 242g
-Ultegra R8000 brakes (with SwissStop Black Prince pads): 367.4g
-SROAD 11-32 cassette: 219.8g
-Amazon carbon bottle cage: 15.8g
-Ultegra R6800 crank- 53/39 and 172.5mm: 696g (as per Shimano's website- I took the crank off the P3 and didn't remove the pedals and forgot to weight everything)
-Garmin V2 Dual-Sided PM pedals: 358g~ (I didn't feel like taking them off the crank just to weigh them and I don't have the numbers at my apartment- this is based on Google search results)
-The cumulative weight is 7.5kg with bottle cage and pedals

I *think* that's about it. I finished building it last weekend but wasn't able to ride until yesterday because of life stuff. The buid was fairly straightforward but I'm not sure I'd suggest it for someone that doesn't have any experience in working on bikes. I did a ton of research before buying/building this so I more or less knew what I was dealing with. 2 miles into my first ride yesterday the rail clamp shifted a few degrees upwards- guess I hadn't tightned it enough. Annoyingly enough, the wedges that I had initially not tightened enough got stuck in the upward position leaving me pretty uncomfortable for the rest of my 30~ mile ride. The drivetrain shifted nicely and was quite in the stand but was noisy once I got it onto the road but that's not all that uncommon- just need to finish dialing in the indexing and maybe the front mech to get it perfect. About 20 miles into that ride, I realized the saddle must've slipped way down because I felt like I was on a clown bike- from from I've read, this is a super common issue on the open mold bikes that have aero seat-posts. I ended up riding out of the saddle for a lot of those 10 miles (silver lining, I set 20s, 30s and 60s power PRs because of that lol).

I get home and remove the saddle and get a flat-head screwdriver and a soft mallet to knock the wedges out of the seat-post and tightened it a little tighter (12nm instead of 8.5nm). I got a piece of plastic from those bags that linen comes in- for some reason that's the shim of choice for these seat-posts- and I rubbed some carbon paste on a piece and wedged it in the back of the seat-post and tightened to 4nm. I also changed the bar tape- I had originally bought some pink Supacaz knock-off tape and it was AWFUL- without a doubt the worst tape I've ever used. The Marque tape I'd ordered two nights before had come so I used that instead. Oh, this was a first, I noticed that whenever I turned the bars sharply to the left, the front brake would tighten a little bit, so I had to redo the tape holding the cable- I even cut a new length of housing but it wasn't needed.

I went on a longer 50 mile ride today and it was nice- pretty smooth and it felt fast- definitely comparable to the P3, which is a good thing- no issues with the seat-post of the saddle clamp. I still need to mess with the drivetrain because it's a bit noisy for my liking, but otherwise it was pretty great. I actually got a lot of compliments on it from two riding buddies that ride SL6 S-Works Tarmacs lol. I haven't ridden at all in almost two weeks so I wasn't expecting anything crazy in terms of PRs or power numbers but I did get a couple of PRs on segements (though since I've only been riding a little over a year and taking it seriously for even less, I'm expecting to get consistent PRs for a while) and I hit new max 1s and 3s power numbers. With that said, I can't say how stiff or noodly the frame is b/c I'm still a relatively weak rider- my 1s and 3s power is 763 and 709 watts- so I'm not sure if that's even strong enough to induce flex from the bottom bracket.

The P3 had Sram on it so I'm getting back into Shimano with this bike and I f@cking LOVE the 9100 front shifting- it is honestly amazing- you literally just touch the shifter and you're in the big ring- so good. I've always used a 50/34 crank previous to this (when riding with a double anyways) and put on the 53/39 rings b/c I was trying them out on the P3 to try solving some shifting issues and didn't have my compact rings at my apartment. I actually just got a 36t ring and am going to put that in and give that a shot because that 39t ring is absolute misery on the multitude of hills all around me.

Pics:
image1 (3).jpeg
image2.jpeg
image11.jpeg
2014 Madone 5.9 w/R9100 shifters and R8000 everything else- using 38mm ICANs or 60/90 SuperTeams- 7.25kgs with the ICANs and Garmin Vector S dual sided PM pedals- not super light but not a dog, either!

by Weenie


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robbosmans
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by robbosmans

Looks great, but may I advise to set up you bars and hoods correctly, the barends should be perpendicular to the ground, that will look way better!

ehlpitel
Posts: 74
Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2021 3:53 pm

by ehlpitel

robbosmans wrote:
Mon Aug 30, 2021 8:45 am
Looks great, but may I advise to set up you bars and hoods correctly, the barends should be perpendicular to the ground, that will look way better!
Thanks so much- I appreciate it. Swapped the carbon saddle back in after giving that white Bontrager one a shot. So you're suggesting I should roll the bars a little downward?
2014 Madone 5.9 w/R9100 shifters and R8000 everything else- using 38mm ICANs or 60/90 SuperTeams- 7.25kgs with the ICANs and Garmin Vector S dual sided PM pedals- not super light but not a dog, either!

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robbosmans
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by robbosmans

Yep and shifter a bit upwards

ehlpitel
Posts: 74
Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2021 3:53 pm

by ehlpitel

robbosmans wrote:
Mon Aug 30, 2021 3:19 pm
Yep and shifter a bit upwards
Hmm, I might give it a shot but I generally prefer the drops to be higher rather than lower.
2014 Madone 5.9 w/R9100 shifters and R8000 everything else- using 38mm ICANs or 60/90 SuperTeams- 7.25kgs with the ICANs and Garmin Vector S dual sided PM pedals- not super light but not a dog, either!

garbageman
Posts: 224
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2020 6:08 am

by garbageman

If you want the drops higher put a spacer under the stem. I'd be surprised if you didn't find it more comfortable with properly set up bars/hoods.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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