Practical Sub-5 On a Budget (4454g) - Officially Sub-10!
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That I did, of course. the results were pretty much the same, though the hanging scale only goes to the nearest 10g and the kitchen scale is a 1g precision. hanging scales are usually +/- 20g accuracy calibrated for much heavier weights, whereas the kitchen scale maxes out at 5kg, so at near 5kg it should be at least quite accurate (since that's how they calibrate it at the factory I assume).
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3296499 ... 4c4dCs7h9OArka wrote: ↑Sat Mar 06, 2021 9:21 pmI tried the search button on this thread ,searched aliexpress for carbon pedals, but am not quite sure which vendor to trust. Could you please post the link to your pedals? Thanks in advance!
These are the flats
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3294987 ... 4c4dCs7h9O
and these are the clipless
jpeterson1012 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:17 pmThat I did, of course. the results were pretty much the same, though the hanging scale only goes to the nearest 10g and the kitchen scale is a 1g precision...
Btw. my kitchen scale goes up to 15kg, with same accuracy. It's not bigger than yours, just thinner, to be even more interesting. Obviously I was very lucky with it because I bought it without thinking too much.
I was nowhere near accurate readings with top tube on the scale, as I have already said, but I suppose it largely depends on the shape of the tube itself. Mine from below is a bit oval, and surely the flat(ish) underside is much better in that regard.
Anyway, I'm not interested in 1x bikes but that doesn’t really matter here, because a real WW effort and imagination has been put into it all together. Weight would be impressive even with "normal" set-up
so affordable I can try them both! Thanks so much for the links! I've only started recently going down the WW path and also with a china frame but it's on an mtb frame. I rarely ride the trails so I made it into a hybrid to save some weight. My obsession started the moment I replaced the fork and cockpit with carbon parts and weighed it. Right now it's still at a hefty 9.2 kg (originally 13ish) and my goal is to get it into the low 8s or maybe even 7s. I would greatly appreciate some advice.jpeterson1012 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:18 pmhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/3296499 ... 4c4dCs7h9O
These are the flats
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3294987 ... 4c4dCs7h9O
and these are the clipless
Last edited by Arka on Wed Mar 10, 2021 6:56 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Nice, except im a little concerned with what's going on with the top headset area. A tip with the flats, if you want the to last, use the existing bearings till they die and then press in some ntn ones, especially if youre a heavy rider. The carbon and spindle are good, but the bearings aren't which unfortunately is to be expected these days with even name-brand components.Arka wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 5:31 amso affordable I can try them both! Thanks so much for the links! I've only started recently going down the WW path and also with a china frame but it's on an mtb frame. I rarely ride the trails so I made it into a hybrid to save some weight. My obsession started the moment I replaced the fork and cockpit with carbon parts and weighed it. Right now it's still at a hefty 9.2 kg (originally 13ish) and my goal is to get it into the low 8s or maybe even 7s. I would greatly appreciate some advice.
Sorry, I don't quite understand. Still new at this and the only thing I know called a spindle is on the crankset - So what's wrong with the headset area? The headset bearings I used are the ones that came with the frame kit and the only ones I replaced in the headset area are the stem and handlebar.jpeterson1012 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 12, 2021 9:49 am
Nice, except im a little concerned with what's going on with the top headset area. A tip with the flats, if you want the to last, use the existing bearings till they die and then press in some ntn ones, especially if youre a heavy rider. The carbon and spindle are good, but the bearings aren't which unfortunately is to be expected these days with even name-brand components.
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did you put a different upper bearing assembly on it? it looks as if the frame had its own, given the big step-down.
Oh I think I understand. I didn't change any bearings on the steerer tube / head tube ( dunno what it's called ) I used all the spacers and bearings that came with the frame.jpeterson1012 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 15, 2021 12:46 amdid you put a different upper bearing assembly on it? it looks as if the frame had its own, given the big step-down.
Btw, do you have a good link / email for Incolor skypivot crank? I found the thread here in WW but it looks like the contact hasn't replied for a long time. As for the Incolor website, I can't even get it to load on my browser. Are there any more affordable alternatives for a carbon crankset?
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Skypivot cranks wont be available for another half year-ish, maybe by Q3 or Q4 of 2021 they'll be available due to the recall they had on their first gen skypivots. They're in the process of sending out revised replacements for everyone who bought gen 1 so there's basically 0 availability.Arka wrote: ↑Mon Mar 15, 2021 1:40 pmBtw, do you have a good link / email for Incolor skypivot crank? I found the thread here in WW but it looks like the contact hasn't replied for a long time. As for the Incolor website, I can't even get it to load on my browser. Are there any more affordable alternatives for a carbon crankset?
Alternatives? THM clavicula SE. A little more expensive, 25g lighter, and a lot less interesting.
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Yeah i'd avoid those last gen skypivots, especially if you're a heavy rider. They had a few failures that lead to a full recall.
I want mine, so if this post scares you outta one, great! I'll get mine sooner then
all yours bro, I don't even know where to order. I've been shopping around for a while and I think I'll just go with the ethirteen XCX cranks, they're 30g heavier than THM at 1/3 the price So what happened in the pics? What does stripping the crank have to do with the fork? if it's a crash then any failure is possible, right?
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The guy in the post: his pedal thread insert detached mid-ride so he basically pedalled air and crashed, destroying his bars and shifter and scratching his fork.Arka wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 6:12 amall yours bro, I don't even know where to order. I've been shopping around for a while and I think I'll just go with the ethirteen XCX cranks, they're 30g heavier than THM at 1/3 the price So what happened in the pics? What does stripping the crank have to do with the fork? if it's a crash then any failure is possible, right?
When incolor opens up orders again, you can get em off their TaoBao store (basically local aliexpress for mainland china). e13 XCX cranks aren't 30g heavier than THMs, they're 37g heavier than incolors, which in turn are 25g heavier than THMs.
e13 XCX is 398g with a one-piece 38t chainring that weighs 70g. Said chainring uses a proprietary mating pattern and you basically have to buy e13, or make your own chainring. So it's 328g without a spider. THMs are 293/302g with a spider. incolor's are 327g with a spider. Since you're on MTB i guess it works out pretty well for you lol.
But for the rest of us roadies, e13 spiders conveniently only exist in 104BCD, and like hell we're going to find a dedicated lightweight 48/50T chainring in that BCD, so it's just finding solutions for problems caused by other solutions, hence the popularity of THM.
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I don't remember if i mentioned it before in this thread, but one of the initial goals of the build was to get it to actually register on the 5kg scale
Now i'm shooting for the psychological sub-10lbs. Should fall in the 9.88lbs area once i eventually get the incolor cranks.
Sub-4 is tough, don't fancy attempting that while keeping all three parameters (cheap, practical, light). Get rid of either cheap or practical, and it actually becomes amusingly easy at this point lol
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