Practical Sub-5 On a Budget (4454g) - Officially Sub-10!

[kode54]

So you caved for over-budget cranks!

Needless to say, no tuning required on them. Looking great so far!

[jpeterson1012]

So you caved for over-budget cranks!

Needless to say, no tuning required on them. Looking great so far!

Yes I did. Incolor kept me waiting for months just to try and place an order. Eventually gave up on them because the time spent waiting was enough for me to save up for THMs. And then THM made me wait another 6 months lol

[asiantrick]

Is this bike ridable or just for fun? Can it take abuse and hard miles on the daily?

[jpeterson1012]

Is this bike ridable or just for fun? Can it take abuse and hard miles on the daily?

It's my commuter. That's why it has 24 rear spokes instead of 20, a Veloflex sprinter as the rear tire instead of another record like the front, and a SRAM red cassette instead of a Recon aluminum cassette, as well as a top headset bearing instead of a Cane Creek Aer bushing.

[pcort]

Really dig the white spokes. Might have to add that to my list ....

A pretty rad commuter, throw a studded tire on the back for the winter months!

[jpeterson1012]

Probably time to update the gallery photos and post some of my new tuning stuff to this thread. My THMs arrived today! but that also makes it no longer a budget weenie lol. Honestly never thought I'd ever own a set of those.

[MrCurrieinahurry]

Haha we have all been there don't worry

Basso Diamante super record EPS 12
BMC slr01 ultegra Di2

[jpeterson1012]

Alright here's my version. Spent way too many hours on them to just save some 13 odd grams, and then I weighed the shifter clamps (which I'd taped in place and really, really didn't want to touch) and they turned out to be 19 grams (which I knew beforehand but was hoping I was wrong) and schmolke sells 8g clamps for 50 bucks so I'd be dumb not to go for them after having dumped so much time into these... also bought some cheapish ti bolts in the hopes of a saving a gram. might make those hollow on the lathe, but I'd have to get a tailstock chuck which is $$$.


starting weight of 17g. do not confuse this with wrw's 20+, he weighed then with the brake cable catch still on there.




shorten them down by 20mm or so, open square slots like an idiot. if I was actually using my brain at the time I wouldve done triangular trusses instead. monkey see monkey do...





in the process of cutting holes, I had to remove the little rubber bumper that pushes the shift paddle back then you brake. as a result, I built a little bridge out of cf with an elongated slot in it where the bumper originally went. it was important to have this bridge sit shy of the edge of the lever blade for the plastic bumper insert.




for the plastic bumper insert, I decided to try some polymorph. you know, those little plastic beads that you boil and they turn to goop... I am slightly concerned about this stuff melting if the bike is left out in the sun uncooled, however plan B is to mold it out of Alumilite's Flex80 casting rubber which has a Shore A hardness of around 85, a little harder than the bottom of a shoe.




as far as polymorph is concerned, I can't find anything concrete on its characteristics or specs, but have seen brands claim it as something of an in-between of PP and nylon, which is great. in actuality, this stuff is tough, wear resistant, and pretty hard at room temperature, all great traits for what I'm using it for.

Final shaping of this stuff is a pain. The answer was heating a box cutter over a heat gun and then carving little by little. once you remove it from the pot you really only have a minute or so to work it into shape (at least with how small my piece was) before it starts to gum up and act more like an eraser than a play-doh. It's held firmly in place because I "riveted" it in place using the hole on the bridge. the elongation of the hole prevents it from rotating. it's solid.

I considered dying the stuff black, but all I have on hand is carbon fiber dust and that would increase wear significantly... so it's staying white for now.



The bridge and bumper added 0.3g



I forgot to take a before and after weight of the shift paddle, but I'd say I saved 1.5-2g there from clear coat and that hole.



as much as I appreciate the strive for even lighter diy hoods, I personally can only accept things that look like a final, marketable product. no harsh feelings.



bumper works perfectly as intended.




it's a 1x system, so the left shifter has been gutted and is sub 100 without the clamp



oof. nowhere near where I want it. I'm aiming for 220.


I've already dumped like 20 hours into these, it would be a disservice to myself to not just buy the 50 buck schmolke clamps at this point...

[Lucendi]

shorten them down by 20mm or so, open square slots like an idiot. if I was actually using my brain at the time I wouldve done triangular trusses instead. monkey see monkey do...

I have never seen a design like yours, what do you mean by "like an idiot" and "monkey see monkey do"?

[jpeterson1012]

shorten them down by 20mm or so, open square slots like an idiot. if I was actually using my brain at the time I wouldve done triangular trusses instead. monkey see monkey do...

I have never seen a design like yours, what do you mean by "like an idiot" and "monkey see monkey do"?

Not to insult others who've done the same thing, but I've just been copying what I've seen my predecessors do and put absolutely no thought behind it while doing it, hence to myself, I was certainly an idiot in this case. Dremel away I went, and then I eyeballed the "design" onto the other side.

In the case you crash, or the bike tips over, there are significant lateral forces exerted directly on the tippy-tips of the levers since they splay outward, and those rectangular holes don't help at all with counteracting those forces. It'll act like a parallelogram and most likely break or crack.

As for "monkey see, monkey do," it's a Louis Rossmann saying, where one turns off their brain entirely and reverts back to base instincts as course of action and mine was to jump right into dremeling it with no planning.

[jpeterson1012]

For future weightweenies, something like this is what I personally would recommend when lever tuning. Maybe fewer triangles, 4 instead of 5.

[jpeterson1012]

For future reference: Your run of the mill carbon steerer weighs 3.14g/cm, or 8g/inch

[jpeterson1012]

Got some pink end caps for my knockoff speedplays. Turned them down a little on the lathe to match the weigh of the old red ones they replace, and to help them clear the cleat a little better (they used to rub, so there's scratches on them unfortunately).




Got some titanium bolts to mount my shifters. Unfortunately my lathe is not good enough to bore them hollow so I was left with just grinding down the heads a little to shave aa bit off them. They sit at 2.7g each whereas the OEM hollow steel ones are 3.5g ea.




The clavicula is in, and I finally get to mount those lightworks chainrings I bought like a year ago at this point. Still waiting on slightly longer chainring bolts as well as some 0.2mm chainring spacers. I estimate the final crank system weight to be 369g.

Oh wait, also waiting on some lightning PF30 cups, I think those should weigh 75-80g, don't have a figure for them but that keeps the bb weight pretty similar to what it is now.

[Klaster_1]

as much as I appreciate the strive for even lighter diy hoods, I personally can only accept things that look like a final, marketable product. no harsh feelings.

At least my shifter modifications are reversible.

The clavicula is in, and I finally get to mount those lightworks chainrings I bought like a year ago at this point. Still waiting on slightly longer chainring bolts as well as some 0.2mm chainring spacers. I estimate the final crank system weight to be 369g.

The spacers to be used on the inner side, right? You probably know already, but FibreLyte recommends to mount their 1x rights with spacers for CF spiders.

Great thread, I enjoyed the write-up a lot.

[jpeterson1012]

The spacers to be used on the inner side, right? You probably know already, but FibreLyte recommends to mount their 1x rights with spacers for CF spiders.

I don't believe lightworks says anything regarding spacers, but I know THM wants spacers so they're going behind the spider to protect the cranks a bit and just to stop the bolts from biting into the carbon directly.