DengFu FM208 build (7.095kg)- no more WW.

[cheapvega]

I've had my eye on those Fourier brakes! Pretty insane in terms of weight and cost. How do you like them on the road?

They are OK. I basically consider them "in case of emergency only". Those brakes + the carbon wheels and pads they came with are pretty weak IMO. It's mostly rolling hills here so I don't need a ton of braking power.

[jpeterson1012]

If youre considering Ti speedplays, also consider those knockoff ti speedplays on aliexpress for 75usd. I bought a pair, came out at 141g, but never actually got around to putting them on my bike since I'm a commited flat pedal user.

Also, deda Traforato "perforated" bar tape is really light. Before going to tesa tape whichweoght 9g, my traforato tape weighed 18g, compqred to the 40g my old one was, amd that's with a full wrap.

[jpeterson1012]

Also consider recabling your brake housing with cheap knockoff (or even authentic) link housing. The weight savings are not insignificant. I wouldnt recommend using knockoff stuff on the shift housing though, they dont seem to be quite so incompressible, amd the weight difference is minimal for shift housing.

[cheapvega]

Thanks for the heads up on all. I actually have the AE SP pedals, but 1. never felt confident enough clipping into them to make the switch and 2. realized after the fact that I'm too heavy for Ti spindles. I have my eye on some Xpedo CrMo pedals which will save about 90-100g off my current pedals. ~700g for a PM + crankset + pedals is about as good as it gets.

The cable housings are whatever they had at the bike shop so there could be some weight savings there. It's a pain to get to though. I'll probably hold off on that.

I think I finally got the ZTTO cassette situation sorted out. I had to space out the cassette on the hub and use a Shimano 11T cog (the ZTTO one was warped SMH). That got me down to 6.285kg or ~13.85lb with both bottle cages on.

[jpeterson1012]

Also consider incolor Skypivot cranks. around 350USD plus shipping for crank+spider that is 25g heavier than THM clavicula SE's. They also have their own Segeyi or something powermeter spider. They are currently sold out though, and have more orders than their production facilities are capable of manufacturing. just have to wait and see

[cheapvega]

That's aggressive!!! Hopefully they get back in stock soon. My caveman math says that would be good for -140g which is massive.

I hope WW builds don't get too prescriptive..... but there are only so many effective permutations.....

[jpeterson1012]

J&L makes a steering tube expander plug that weighs 4.4g for only 12 dollars. That's a lot lighter than my 11g aliexpress one percentage wise, and certainly lighter than most generic expanders on the market which weigh in at around 30-35g. Aliexpress also has these alloy one-piece top cap + screw combos. Not only are they super light (5g i think, gotta check my build to verify), but they also do a better job at preventing moisture and water ingression into the steerer and carbon fork. Definitely recommend.

You could also slam that stem and flip it to face up in order to skip the spacers, which would also shorten the steerer and shave down on the fork.

Also, as others have mentioned, definitely go for a lighter seatpost collar clamp. JRC components makes the Kumo+ which is 7g I think, i've had good a experience with it so far (I don't adjust it, so it's just set and forget. Would think twice about it if I were resetting my seatpost height every other day tho).

Finally, if the roads permit it, and you don't flat a lot in general, consider the Continental Grand Prix Supersonic 20mm tire for your front wheel. It weighs only 145g. I was on this before going to my tubular set.

Finally #2, consider getting continental supersonic inner tubes. They are 50g/51g on my scale, in comparison, regular $7 tubes weigh 115-120g. They are also no less puncture resistant than regular tubes, since if something punctures your tire liner, your tube's going to flat no matter what it is.

From what I remember, that should be ~38g saved for the seatpost collar (25usd), 15g for slammed stem (0usd), 30g for the top cap/screw combo (5usd), 20g for the expander plug (12/13usd), 140g from the tubes (28usd a pair), 60g from the front tire (45usd).

If i didn't miss anything newly done to the bike, that should be 303g saved from miscellaneous/parts-taken-for-granted for 116 dollars, plus tax if you're in europe. You're sub 6 then,

EDIT: Oh wait, you're on tubulars right? I was thinking of your original post with the GP4000's, if you're on tubulars then it's 103g for 43 dollars, still a little off

[cheapvega]

Great suggestions! Yes I am on tubulars. I weigh about 87kg and like the way the 25mm Tufos ride, so I think tires are off the table. 265g for 25mm tubs are pretty good IMO and again to my untrained butt and hands they ride nice. Much better than the GP4000s I had on my other bike (but that bike is 14 years old). I actually bought Tubolitos before I decided to go tubular. I actually never weighed the seatpost collar so I will have to clarify that weight.... but there are still probably savings to be had there. Still, that's about 80 very cheap grams of stuff I hadn't really considered, which will make getting under 6kg that much easier. Would love to get down to ~5.8kg so I can be under 6 with my Bolt, lights and both bottle cages. Thanks again for the suggestions!!!

[jpeterson1012]

Jealous of your flat roads.... every time I do the math on going 1x the big dinner plate rear cassettes throw that plan out the window

Alrighty, this is a quote from your comment on my build, but I did some napkin mafs for you going 1x. I might have a solution for you, depending on your willingness to go under 6kg lol.

So your current 2x drivetrain weight (at least the parts that matter) is as follows:

Code: Select all

FD: 64g
FD Hanger and bolts (+/- 1g based off my similar frame): 15g 
Cables and Barrel Adjuster (safe estimation): ~30-35g
Crankset: 462g
Chainrings: 94
Chainring Bolts (Does your crankset weight include these?): 10g
BB: 82g
Cassette: 206g

Total: 963g

So here's the two pronged solution: eThirteen actually makes an interesting cassette. It is 11 speed, but it is XDR mount, so the range on it is a sweet 9-34 for 271g. You'd need a new freehub, sure, but that means that you can achieve similar gear ratios to your current compact drivetrain with a 40T chainring lol, you see where I'm going?

I estimate Fibre-lyte's 40T chainring to be between 30 and 35g (It's a safe estimate, given their "Aero 39x130" is 29g (If that figure is true, these will almost certainly weigh less than 30g)

So here's your new gearing:

Code: Select all

Original 50/11: 1 : 4.545
New 40/9: 1 : 4.444

Original 34/34: 1 : 1
New 40/34: 1 : 176

If you want lower lows, you can either get stronger, or go heavier with e13's 9-39 or 9-42 :P

With that sorted, you still have 2 choices: Powermeter or no? 77g difference.

With powermeter:

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Incolor SkyPivot Crankarms: 290g
Powermeter Spider (110BCD x 4): 115g
Fibre-lyte 40T Chainring: 30g
4 KCNC Chainring Bolts: 5g
6806 BB30 Bearings x2 + circlips: 48g
e13 9-34 Cassette: 271g
Chain -4 links = -9g

Total: 750
Savings: 213g

No powermeter:

Code: Select all

Incolor SkyPivot Crankarms + 110BCD x 5 Spider: 327g
Fibre-lyte 40T Chainring: 30g
5 KCNC Chainring Bolts: 6g
6806 BB30 Bearings x2 + circlips: 48g
e13 9-34 Cassette: 271g
Chain -4 links = -9g

Total: 673
Savings: 290g

If you slap on a PYC SP-1101 Chain, 104 links only weigh 208g (compared to 233g for 104 links of KMC), so another 25g saved for 30 bucks. You'd be safely under 6kg then.

PS: If you do end up doing this, and like it, you can even try gutting the left shifter for its internal mechanism, saving even more weight, maybe another 25-30g even.

PS2: Alrighty, this is indeed getting pretty prescriptive as you mentioned lol... Do this, plus pull my set of components off my bike, slap em on practically any frame, and you're sub-5...

[cheapvega]

I regretted not getting an XDR hub with this wheelset.... I learned about them after I put the order in (and these wheels didn't come with that option anyway)

I would still want something close to a 1:1 gear on the bottom end.... I rarely use 34/34 but when I need to I need to. With a set of Assioma Duos and a new wheelset the move to 1x would probably save about 400-500g which is pretty spicy. But I just got these wheels, so I'm gonna get some miles out of them. I def want to upgrade in the next year or two but I'll take my time with that.

I didn't even consider all the FD hardware- very good catch! That does make the 1x move a lot more logical. I think regular 40T chainrings are pretty light. I have a 46T FSA chainring that weighs 60-70g I think. I imagine a 40T has to be in the 50s.

[cheapvega]

Bike is locked in the trainer so I gave those 150g titanium pedals another try. They seem good but for some reason bike weight went up! I remembered I swapped the Shimano cassette back on. The ZTTO cassette wouldn't be so bad if the spacing was right... I think it's wider by like 4mm from the big to small gear. I will swap the ZTTO cassette back and see what the weight is and if I can get it set up OK next time I'm back on the road, but that should get me in the 61xx g range.

Also ordered the AE expander plug/cap and the JRC seat clamp.

[cheapvega]

AE Speedplays are starting to get broken in a bit. Did a session on the trainer with them.... I like them. They weigh 150g less than the pedals I had on but for whatever reason they only dropped 120g from the bike on the scale. Whatever. I do need to dial them in a bit but I'm not hurting from today's ride.

Put the ZTTO cassette back and got the RD dialed in. Also got a Carbon Zone 88mm rear clincher for the trainer for the hell of it. The rear clincher I'm using now is part of a set I want to sell and I figured the 88mm could add some flywheel effect on the trainer.

Still like 120-130g short. Time to break out the drill and saw....

[Klaster_1]

AE Speedplays are starting to get broken in a bit.

Only had a single ride on mine. I had to shim the plate with 0.5mm plastic bottle pieces so C-clip would move more freely, in addition to generous amount of lube and dialed in base plate level, which I had to dremel a bit too. Even with all the modifications, one side of the right pedal is noticeably harder to clip in and in general only specific clip-in moves work, just standing up on pedal does nothing. Was your experience similar, did any of that go away after break in?

[liketoride]

your dub quarq with PM is only 460g? i dont think i would be spending the money for the sky crank plus PM would be worth it, i would buy the stem and a rotor cassette would be over 100gs lighter but only would get 32t for half the money that the pm and crank would be

[cheapvega]

your dub quarq with PM is only 460g? i dont think i would be spending the money for the sky crank plus PM would be worth it, i would buy the stem and a rotor cassette would be over 100gs lighter but only would get 32t for half the money that the pm and crank would be

Yea I did the math after and realized the difference was a lot smaller. Even if I switch to the non PM versions with Assoima Duos I think the weight loss is negligible. Only big drivetrain moves would be to go 1x... I think my current setup is optimal for a PM.

AE Speedplays are starting to get broken in a bit.

Only had a single ride on mine. I had to shim the plate with 0.5mm plastic bottle pieces so C-clip would move more freely, in addition to generous amount of lube and dialed in base plate level, which I had to dremel a bit too. Even with all the modifications, one side of the right pedal is noticeably harder to clip in and in general only specific clip-in moves work, just standing up on pedal does nothing. Was your experience similar, did any of that go away after break in?

C-clips move relatively freely on both cleats for me, and with the bike locked into the trainer clipping in is no problem. I will have to see how it is on the road. To be fair I bought these months ago and could not clip into them at all then. I decided to give them another try and with some dry lube they work pretty well now. Not as easy to clip in as my old SPDs but I haven't had accidental clip outs either.