Don't think so, fits the lower headset bearing perfectly that way up. Could be completely wrong b though, i always thought the o ring was supposed to face up.
Edit: I think I might be wrong though.... Will investigate tonight hahaha.
Lynskey Helix Pro Disc
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Got the all clear from Lynskey to install it, so took it to a bike shop and had them do it. No issues with it as far as I can tell.
Only beginner question now is which part of the gears to install first, chain or cables?
Cables - less fiddling and getting grease from the chain on you.
Then chain, then set / trim the gears. Go for a roll, double check, then bar tape.
And after a bit of faffing, it's finished. Unfortunately the batteries for my luggage weighing scale have broken....
Only issue is they the right hand shifter paddle doesn't sit flush with the brake lever, which is annoying.
Any advice?
Only issue is they the right hand shifter paddle doesn't sit flush with the brake lever, which is annoying.
Any advice?
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Project Lynskey still not made much progress. Sram red 22 RH shifter paddle wasn't sitting flush with the brake lever. Wasn't too bothered at first but then i realised it'd probably drive me up to wall having the LH paddle sitting flush and the RH not.
Bit of research seems to suggest that the paddle not sitting flush is a defect - so returned shifter to Wiggle 2 and half weeks ago. Still heard nothing back despite lots of promises to get in contact.
Saw the same shifter on sale, bought one so I could get it fitted and get the bike finished. New shifter paddle ALSO doesn't fit flush, and is the newer version of red 22, so doesn't match! I'm wondering if it's supposed to be like that or have I just got unlucky 2x in a row?
Bit of research seems to suggest that the paddle not sitting flush is a defect - so returned shifter to Wiggle 2 and half weeks ago. Still heard nothing back despite lots of promises to get in contact.
Saw the same shifter on sale, bought one so I could get it fitted and get the bike finished. New shifter paddle ALSO doesn't fit flush, and is the newer version of red 22, so doesn't match! I'm wondering if it's supposed to be like that or have I just got unlucky 2x in a row?
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Finally, after about a month of time-wasting, went for a shakedown ride with the Lynskey. The position needs a bit of faffing, and it feels really weird running 170mm cranks coming from 175mm. Unfortunately, there is some tire/toe overlap as it stands currently. It's nothing major but might be problematic with guards on.
Steering is pretty lively as well, definitely a change from the Rock Lobster I'm used to riding.
Still super stoked with it! Going to give it a few months to get the position sorted and work towards getting the stem down. It's pretty comfortable as it stands, so I'm sure there's space to move the stem down.
Nex steps:
Setback seat post for cheap from ebay
Seesense v2 rearlight (or equivalent)
Low stack headset cover
True rotors
Desticker wheels
Lightweight front thru axle (in post)
Steering is pretty lively as well, definitely a change from the Rock Lobster I'm used to riding.
Still super stoked with it! Going to give it a few months to get the position sorted and work towards getting the stem down. It's pretty comfortable as it stands, so I'm sure there's space to move the stem down.
Nex steps:
Setback seat post for cheap from ebay
Seesense v2 rearlight (or equivalent)
Low stack headset cover
True rotors
Desticker wheels
Lightweight front thru axle (in post)
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Small update:
Removed wheel stickers, raised the stem a bit as i'm actually not flexible enough to slam at the moment. Have unfortunately had to switch back to the FSA expander plug from the extralite one due to a problem. Despite tightening the expander to the right torque, it must've slid up whilst I was tightening the headset top cap bolt, and seized the male end of the expander to the top cap bolt. Sergio told me the expander can only take 2nm of torque from the topcap bolt, which wasn't mentioned anywhere on the instructions (as far as i'm aware)
I've got them apart now, but have some nasty gouges on the thread of the male end, so not sure I want to put it back in at the moment.
I'll either brave it or get another one from extralite, plus one of their top caps.
A forum member kindly donated a setback post, which will go on when it arrives. If the fit isn't right I will go back to the inline, and get one of the carbon ones from china.
I'm tempted to remove the decals on the top tube as well, but don't want to make the frame too bare.
...Still haven't weighed it
Removed wheel stickers, raised the stem a bit as i'm actually not flexible enough to slam at the moment. Have unfortunately had to switch back to the FSA expander plug from the extralite one due to a problem. Despite tightening the expander to the right torque, it must've slid up whilst I was tightening the headset top cap bolt, and seized the male end of the expander to the top cap bolt. Sergio told me the expander can only take 2nm of torque from the topcap bolt, which wasn't mentioned anywhere on the instructions (as far as i'm aware)
I've got them apart now, but have some nasty gouges on the thread of the male end, so not sure I want to put it back in at the moment.
I'll either brave it or get another one from extralite, plus one of their top caps.
A forum member kindly donated a setback post, which will go on when it arrives. If the fit isn't right I will go back to the inline, and get one of the carbon ones from china.
I'm tempted to remove the decals on the top tube as well, but don't want to make the frame too bare.
...Still haven't weighed it
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CrankAddictsRich
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I think it looks great as is... I'd say leave the decals.
They've definitely decided to go huge with the Helix decals in the last couple of years. If you remove them and decide down the line that you regret it I'm sure they'd send you a fresh set. I've changed decals on mine, it's real easy on ti.
At a price of $50 + postage to the UK as per their website. There's a local person that does decals, might see if i can get a custom set from them.
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Finally bought a weighing scale, the anticipation was too much!
It's too dark for a picture, but with full mudguards, cages, light mounts, uncut steerer etc. etc. it weighs...
9.3kg.
I think it'd come down to 9kg without the guards.
There's a lot of room to drop weight though, and when it gets closer to summer i'll begin properly accumulating parts. At the moment it's in winter riding mode with all the gubbins attatched
List:
Tune seatpost clamp - 10g (15g saving)
Extralite hypercap - 2.9g (15g saving)
Kalloy uno stem 110m - c.110g (40g saving)
Chinese Carbon seatpost (cut) - c.130g (110g saving)
Extralite ultrastar - 3.9g (20g saving)
J&L titanium spindle for speedplay - 63g/pair (60g saving)
Carbon saddle - 110g (90g saving)
That's roughly a 350g saving
I think some of the big boat anchors here are the callipers, which weigh a ton. I'm considering upgrading to full red/force hydraulics, but i'm not sure if they'd save much weight. The upgrade would be for performance reasons primarily.
Outisde of that I'm not sure how else to trim weight!
It's too dark for a picture, but with full mudguards, cages, light mounts, uncut steerer etc. etc. it weighs...
9.3kg.
I think it'd come down to 9kg without the guards.
There's a lot of room to drop weight though, and when it gets closer to summer i'll begin properly accumulating parts. At the moment it's in winter riding mode with all the gubbins attatched
List:
Tune seatpost clamp - 10g (15g saving)
Extralite hypercap - 2.9g (15g saving)
Kalloy uno stem 110m - c.110g (40g saving)
Chinese Carbon seatpost (cut) - c.130g (110g saving)
Extralite ultrastar - 3.9g (20g saving)
J&L titanium spindle for speedplay - 63g/pair (60g saving)
Carbon saddle - 110g (90g saving)
That's roughly a 350g saving
I think some of the big boat anchors here are the callipers, which weigh a ton. I'm considering upgrading to full red/force hydraulics, but i'm not sure if they'd save much weight. The upgrade would be for performance reasons primarily.
Outisde of that I'm not sure how else to trim weight!
