Finding (Cinelli) Nemo R12 Disc - Deep Section Tune Wheelset

[welchy]

Some easy wins for me to go - yes half of you will think this is ridiculous as why did I buy a steel bike, but I love fettling and why not

This works out at £0.41 per gram saved which is quite economical on the scale of things - effectively 175g saving with estimates.

[welchy]

Very happy with my next purchase, yes it solidifies why Campag is an absolutely PITA but I feel I've got all the tools needed now for maintenance of this groupo..

Plus. The over-engineering of this tool is sublime! And yes before you ask the 11spd works with the 12spd.

Also, in other news. Got a little eye on these:

https://r2-bike.com/TUNE-Wheelset-28-TS ... Campagnolo

With conversion thats circa £360 for a wheelset with tune hubs. I recently bought some tune disc hubs to strip and rebuild and they are engineered so beautifully. At the time however I couldn't afford to buy the rims I wanted to make them into a second wheelset so sold them on.

[Calnago]

@Welchy, nice on the campy chain tool. But did you ever follow up in the outcome of the difficulties in getting your 12sp dialed in perfectly? Did it get sorted in the end?

[bikeboy1tr]

Nice classic bike with some beauty parts and upon reading this thread I came across the titanium bits for the speedplay pedals and decided to purchase some bowties, spindles and end bolts but they were out of the bowtie bolts so I will have to wait. I purchased from a shop in Toronto Can and they are having some sales on many anodized parts as they want to focus on titanium only in the future.
http://www.torontocycles.com/Selling/Pe ... ories.html

BTW I like the primitive vernier caliper your using on that tire for someone who works in the Aeronautical industry I was expecting at least digital calipers.

[welchy]

@Welchy, nice on the campy chain tool. But did you ever follow up in the outcome of the difficulties in getting your 12sp dialed in perfectly? Did it get sorted in the end?

Still not fully worked it out Calnago - shifting has been a bunch better since I removed the nokon rear cable outer but still struggling with the reach of the mech. I'm pretty certain that the reason for the issue is freehub/spacing of freehub related or the end caps on the rear axle. I think there is too much space between the rear dropout and the first 11T cog. Do you know if there is a diagram showing what the spacing between dropout and first cog should be? I'll measure it out on mine.

[welchy]

Nice classic bike with some beauty parts and upon reading this thread I came across the titanium bits for the speedplay pedals and decided to purchase some bowties, spindles and end bolts but they were out of the bowtie bolts so I will have to wait. I purchased from a shop in Toronto Can and they are having some sales on many anodized parts as they want to focus on titanium only in the future.
http://www.torontocycles.com/Selling/Pe ... ories.html

BTW I like the primitive vernier caliper your using on that tire for someone who works in the Aeronautical industry I was expecting at least digital calipers.

I've bookmarked that link - will be ordering some next month when fingers crossed bonus comes - very tempted to get a new wheelset as well (tune hubs build around 1500g) then put the fulcrums up for sale and buy some carbon bare rims to build into something tasty and lighter say around 1400g target.

Baby arrives hopefully in two weeks as the missus is about to pop so all the above could change

For sure, these are my toolbox verniers. They go with my portable toolbox for obvious reasons that they take much more abuse. Needless to say my digi ones come out for real use!

[majklnajt]

Great looking bike! Well done

[welchy]

Cheers bud - it'll be going for a respray soon - unsure which colourway in Cinelli's repetoire yet...

[Calnago]

@Welchy, nice on the campy chain tool. But did you ever follow up in the outcome of the difficulties in getting your 12sp dialed in perfectly? Did it get sorted in the end?

Still not fully worked it out Calnago - shifting has been a bunch better since I removed the nokon rear cable outer but still struggling with the reach of the mech. I'm pretty certain that the reason for the issue is freehub/spacing of freehub related or the end caps on the rear axle. I think there is too much space between the rear dropout and the first 11T cog. Do you know if there is a diagram showing what the spacing between dropout and first cog should be? I'll measure it out on mine.

I really doubt this is the issue, I can't imagine the manufacturer not ensuring that this spec as it relates to the dropout plus hanger dimensions was maintained, so it's a real long shot, but here ya go...

[welchy]

Time to get some accurate measurements but I think this could be it

[welchy]

@Welchy, nice on the campy chain tool. But did you ever follow up in the outcome of the difficulties in getting your 12sp dialed in perfectly? Did it get sorted in the end?

Still not fully worked it out Calnago - shifting has been a bunch better since I removed the nokon rear cable outer but still struggling with the reach of the mech. I'm pretty certain that the reason for the issue is freehub/spacing of freehub related or the end caps on the rear axle. I think there is too much space between the rear dropout and the first 11T cog. Do you know if there is a diagram showing what the spacing between dropout and first cog should be? I'll measure it out on mine.

I really doubt this is the issue, I can't imagine the manufacturer not ensuring that this spec as it relates to the dropout plus hanger dimensions was maintained, so it's a real long shot, but here ya go...

So, took the measurement and it was right at the very far end of the spectrum/tolerances. I have the feeling that the cap on the end of the axle is a bit proud so when it's sandwiched together is maybe 0.8mm ish further out when I tighten the axle than it should be. As in the cap on the end of the fulcrum axle..

I'm beginning to think maybe this is direct mount?!? And I should sack off the extra mount.

Thoughts?

[Calnago]

I think I may have questioned whether it was a direct mount hanger previously, based on where the derailleur was positioned, but that was just from a photo so I couldn’t be sure. But compare your dropout position with the dropout position in that frame you just posted above the paint tube samples. Because the dropout in that pic is for sure not direct mount. Does yours look the same, or different, position wise.

[welchy]

I think I may have questioned whether it was a direct mount hanger previously, based on where the derailleur was positioned, but that was just from a photo so I couldn’t be sure. But compare your dropout position with the dropout position in that frame you just posted above the paint tube samples. Because the dropout in that pic is for sure not direct mount. Does yours look the same, or different, position wise.

Pretty hard for me to work out which is which, but it seems by adding the other part on the mech yiu effectively space out another 0.8ish mm

[Calnago]

@Welchy: it's still kinda hard for me to tell from the perspective of those pics if that's a DM hanger or not, but I'm leaning towards thinking it is. Could you post another pic from straight on with the bike standing on a level floor as if you're doing a profile shot. In any case, here's the DM spec from Campy...

The critical measurement is how far toward the rear from a line perpendicular line to a line through the bottom bracket and the center of your rear axle is the center of derialleur mounting hole. In the diagram above it is 31.5mm +/- 2.5mm. The same spec on a regular hanger would be between 4-8mm, so quite a big difference that shouldn't be hard to distinguish between.

If it is a DM hanger, then you need to remove the "link" on the rear derailleur and attach the derailleur directly to the hanger. Take note that the link is attache to the derailleur with a left hand bolt, so make sure you're turning it the right way if you remove it. Also, in the even that it is a DM hanger, and you remove the link, you will also need the unique B-screw which you'll have to obtain separately. It also mounts very differently in that it gets inserted from the opposite side that the original B-screw does. At the end of the day, the derailleur should end up in the same place regardless of whether a DM hanger or a regular hanger is being used, but for sure if you try to attach the "link" to a DM hanger it will be way off, and I would be surprised if it works at all. I've never tried that, but that's why I'm reluctant to assume it's a DM hanger you're dealing with, but it certainly looks like its further back than a regular hanger might be (look at the bike you posted in your post with the different colored tube samples).

Anyway, hope this helps to at least confirm which type of hanger you're dealing with.

[edit]: after looking at your photos again, and specifically the angle of the stop tab on your hanger, I doubt very much that that is a DM hanger.
So still unknown to me, is what kind of cabling you’re using up front, all the way into the levers themselves? You’re not using Nokon links up there as well are you?

[welchy]

Unfortunately still nokon up front... couldn't find max smoothness for less than £85 in the UK... until this eve on eBay. So I've ordered it up and will re-cable as I've just bought some Cinelli Dinamo bars as the 3T Ergonova were A Super Heavy (think 310g) in 40cm and a touch too narrow, thought it was worth trying them though.

Just irritating as I thought the nokon set would be awesome..