CAAD7 build in 2019 - goal <= 6.8Kg for < $1K USD

Who are you (no off-topic talk please)

Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

garjo wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 4:43 pm
This wheelset looks awesome, it has the right rim height for your frame.
About tubulars I can say Veloflex are good but Continental (Competition, their best model) are better, then managing tubulars is pretty easy because their punctures can be fixed with latex always running inside them, and with some attack flexgel + little pieces of american tape you will go to put on the tread in the point of puncture, it takes like 3 minutes to fix it.
Interesting point of view. With your experience on both is it just the general puncture protection that you found better on the Competitions? It looks like they are only 180 TPI so ride feel surely can't be as good as the Veloflex at 320 TPI?

Currently I ride Challenge "Open Tubulars" on my other bike - 300TPI I think. They were a vast improvement over other clincher tyres i've tried and the Veloflex look very, very similar. Wouldn't be suprised if they all came out of the same factory. In fact, I probably would have gone Challenge again as their actual Tubulars are meant to be brilliant as well, but they tend to be a lot heavier than Veloflex and others. Claimed weights for Challenge tyres always seem to be about 10-15% under actual.

by Weenie


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Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

Gary71 wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 7:59 pm
Fantastic polish, photos and build in progress - great stuff.
What product did you use to polish the frame and how do you get on with preventing the frame from oxidising?
Did you use Autosol or something similar

I can't wait to see your final build.
The frame was in pretty good nick to start with so that certainly helped! But I did sand it down to remove any major scratches and oxidation. Used mostly 800 grit paper to remove any serious marks, then 1200 then 2000 to finish. All done by hand so up close there's definitely still lots of marks but you'd need some professional tools to get any better I reckon.

After sanding I mostly used Mothers Aluminium Polish: http://www.mothers.com/02_products/0510 ... slider1=21

It's magic stuff and really brings up the shine! I also had some stuff given to me by the previous owner, it was a blue polish cream but don't know the name. I presume it was this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-P ... B000BO8Z9I. I tried that and the Mothers and both seemed to give equal results.

As for future protection, I don't have anything planned at this stage. It's really going to be a "Sunday best" only bike, and will mostly be stored indoors so oxidation will probably be minimal. I'll probably enjoy keeping it polished up anyway, and I presume the Mothers polish provides a certain amount of protection, like Autosol does.

Did a light sanding on the carbon fork as well to remove some scratches in the clear coat and then used the Mothers on that too to bring up the clear coat shine. Worked brilliantly!

garjo
Posts: 193
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:41 pm
Location: ITALY

by garjo

Mosbo wrote:
Fri May 24, 2019 10:31 am
garjo wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 4:43 pm
This wheelset looks awesome, it has the right rim height for your frame.
About tubulars I can say Veloflex are good but Continental (Competition, their best model) are better, then managing tubulars is pretty easy because their punctures can be fixed with latex always running inside them, and with some attack flexgel + little pieces of american tape you will go to put on the tread in the point of puncture, it takes like 3 minutes to fix it.
Interesting point of view. With your experience on both is it just the general puncture protection that you found better on the Competitions? It looks like they are only 180 TPI so ride feel surely can't be as good as the Veloflex at 320 TPI?

Currently I ride Challenge "Open Tubulars" on my other bike - 300TPI I think. They were a vast improvement over other clincher tyres i've tried and the Veloflex look very, very similar. Wouldn't be suprised if they all came out of the same factory. In fact, I probably would have gone Challenge again as their actual Tubulars are meant to be brilliant as well, but they tend to be a lot heavier than Veloflex and others. Claimed weights for Challenge tyres always seem to be about 10-15% under actual.
I was been using Veloflex tubs for a long time, great quality and surely more TPI, but their internal structure (double layer) is not so latex friendly, some times it doesn't help puncture repair because latex could be dispersed between the two layers, so better Competitions, for their great quality and for faster and durable repairs.
My 4,93 kg Supersix Evo HM: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137647&start=30

My 6,22 kg Cannondale R500 1996: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=134364

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

Haven't posted an update for a while so thought i'd just share another photo of build progress. I've pretty much got everything now, just waiting on cables. Then I can run the cables and fit the chain, brakes etc... properly. Oh, and tyres, haven't bought tyres yet either. It's all coming together though! I've got lots more component weight pics to post up soon just haven't had much time.

Image

Went for a gold chain and got some matching (marginally lighter) brake shoes from AliExpress. Got some gold cable end crimps too. Not sure i'll end up keeping it yet, i'm undecided if I like it, but wanted to do something a little bit different/special.

Current weight as seen here is 6.35kg. On target for about 6.6-6.7 fully built by the looks.
Attachments
APC_2746.jpg

Squashednuts
Posts: 546
Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:12 am
Location: Christchurch New Zealand

by Squashednuts

Good looking bike

Whereabouts in NZ are you?

Tubulars are a better cycling experience IMO
You’ll need to carry some liquid sealant, in case of punctures
I use Tufo extreme sealant, it’s worked well when I’ve had punctures

I like a Michelin tyres and they make a tubular, the Pro 4

Have you tried Bike Shelf on FaceBook
Trading forum for all things bike
I was Somewhat reluctant to tell you about this is case we end up in a bidding war

I’m about to start a build with a Fuji Frame aim8ng for 5.7kg and under 5k Nz$
Got most of my bits and up to 4.2k
Building Spec Allez

Sold
Fuji SL 5.5kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=157704

Sold -
Izalco Max Disc 6.7kg http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... o+Max+disc

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

Squashednuts wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:22 am
Good looking bike

Whereabouts in NZ are you?

Tubulars are a better cycling experience IMO
You’ll need to carry some liquid sealant, in case of punctures
I use Tufo extreme sealant, it’s worked well when I’ve had punctures

I like a Michelin tyres and they make a tubular, the Pro 4

Have you tried Bike Shelf on FaceBook
Trading forum for all things bike
I was Somewhat reluctant to tell you about this is case we end up in a bidding war

I’m about to start a build with a Fuji Frame aim8ng for 5.7kg and under 5k Nz$
Got most of my bits and up to 4.2k
Hi Squashednuts! I’m in Auckland. Looks like you’re down in Chch?

Thanks for the tips. Actually I have been told about Bike Shelf before but I keep forgetting to join. So thanks for reminding! Don’t worry about any bidding war, I have all my parts now. Kind of wish I’d joined sooner though as maybe I could have saved some more cash. I’m nowhere near a $5k budget build though, maybe next one!

Squashednuts
Posts: 546
Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:12 am
Location: Christchurch New Zealand

by Squashednuts

Mosbo wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 11:48 am
Squashednuts wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:22 am
Good looking bike

Whereabouts in NZ are you?

Tubulars are a better cycling experience IMO
You’ll need to carry some liquid sealant, in case of punctures
I use Tufo extreme sealant, it’s worked well when I’ve had punctures

I like a Michelin tyres and they make a tubular, the Pro 4

Have you tried Bike Shelf on FaceBook
Trading forum for all things bike
I was Somewhat reluctant to tell you about this is case we end up in a bidding war

I’m about to start a build with a Fuji Frame aim8ng for 5.7kg and under 5k Nz$
Got most of my bits and up to 4.2k
Hi Squashednuts! I’m in Auckland. Looks like you’re down in Chch?

Thanks for the tips. Actually I have been told about Bike Shelf before but I keep forgetting to join. So thanks for reminding! Don’t worry about any bidding war, I have all my parts now. Kind of wish I’d joined sooner though as maybe I could have saved some more cash. I’m nowhere near a $5k budget build though, maybe next one!
I’ve already blown my budget
Very poor arithmetic
I’m at 6k plus...ah well...and I still need a seat post

I know, I’ll just revise my budget to $7k....phew, all sorted 😀
Building Spec Allez

Sold
Fuji SL 5.5kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=157704

Sold -
Izalco Max Disc 6.7kg http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... o+Max+disc

flying
Posts: 2861
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:16 am

by flying

Mosbo wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 12:34 am
Went for a gold chain and got some matching (marginally lighter) brake shoes from AliExpress. Got some gold cable end crimps too. Not sure i'll end up keeping it yet, i'm undecided if I like it, but wanted to do something a little bit different/special.

Current weight as seen here is 6.35kg. On target for about 6.6-6.7 fully built by the looks.
Build is looking very good as is the weight congrats :beerchug:

Really like these types of builds that find a very good classic frame & Fuji's Alloy frames are often
overlooked but Fuji have been building an excellent frame for a long time. :thumbup:

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

Cables finally arrived last week and I had some time on the weekend to put it all together. So here she is!

Image

Had to take it for a quick test ride so pedals are off my other bike, still don't have tires, and won't do the bar tape until all finished adjusting etc... but so far i'm pretty stoked!

6.9kg as pictured. So take off about 100g from the tyres and another 150g+ off the pedals. Bar tape looks to weigh about 35g but that's the only bit missing I think.

Oh and please excuse the repetitive photo positioning haha. Until I can get it out for a proper ride this is the only space I really have at home that's suitable.
Attachments
APC_2752.jpg
Last edited by Mosbo on Tue Jun 25, 2019 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

What do you think of the cabling? This is my first ever build, so first time running cables etc... Shifting on initial ride seemed slick so it's functional at least!

I'm a bit gutted the FD inline barrel adjuster ruined the symmetry of the gear cables, I tried it without one at first but couldn't get the tension I needed on the cable. I might re-do this with a better adjuster at some stage though and put the adjuster down by the cable stop instead.

Any other tips greatly appreciated!

Image
Attachments
APC_2753.jpg
Last edited by Mosbo on Mon Jun 24, 2019 11:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

Another at home pic

Image
Attachments
APC_2749.jpg

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onemanpeloton
Posts: 367
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:30 am
Location: Edinburgh, UK

by onemanpeloton

Looks sooo good!

I always hated those inline cable adjusters so just spent a bit extra time getting the tension correct when clamping the cable at the derailleur. It's worth it!

Also, I don't know how compatible they might be with sram shifters, but some of the newer shimano front mechs have a cable adjuster built in
2020 Trek Boone
2017 Merida Reacto
2017 Trek Superfly AL

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stockae92
Posts: 295
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:13 pm

by stockae92

nice looking bike.

I just love the polished metal look. and those welding looks great.

Mosbo
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 11:33 pm

by Mosbo

onemanpeloton wrote:
Mon Jun 24, 2019 11:36 am
Looks sooo good!

I always hated those inline cable adjusters so just spent a bit extra time getting the tension correct when clamping the cable at the derailleur. It's worth it!

Also, I don't know how compatible they might be with sram shifters, but some of the newer shimano front mechs have a cable adjuster built in
I took your advice and re-ran the cable with no adjuster. Used the limit screws to losen and then add a bit of tension in again. Seems to have done the trick on the stand but we will see out on the road.

Unfortunately I have severely fraid my shift cable now in the process so I will have to redo it again at some point with a new cable. But for now it’s tidy enough with an end cap on and works. The front end looks much cleaner without the inline adjuster.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



User avatar
onemanpeloton
Posts: 367
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:30 am
Location: Edinburgh, UK

by onemanpeloton

Mosbo wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:47 am
onemanpeloton wrote:
Mon Jun 24, 2019 11:36 am
Looks sooo good!

I always hated those inline cable adjusters so just spent a bit extra time getting the tension correct when clamping the cable at the derailleur. It's worth it!

Also, I don't know how compatible they might be with sram shifters, but some of the newer shimano front mechs have a cable adjuster built in
I took your advice and re-ran the cable with no adjuster. Used the limit screws to losen and then add a bit of tension in again. Seems to have done the trick on the stand but we will see out on the road.

Unfortunately I have severely fraid my shift cable now in the process so I will have to redo it again at some point with a new cable. But for now it’s tidy enough with an end cap on and works. The front end looks much cleaner without the inline adjuster.
Nice one. Yeah, it takes a bit of finesse and trial and error but it's worth it for cleaning things up and I've never had cables stretch much on a front mech anyway so a barrel adjuster is overkill
2020 Trek Boone
2017 Merida Reacto
2017 Trek Superfly AL

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