Godzuki26 thinks there needs to be a Weightweenie Scott Scale 900 SL build in the USA. So here we go!

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Attermann
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by Attermann

That’s your problem, look up the original bearings, they are about 2 mm under the outer edge of the bearing, so that those will be too wide.

scant
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by scant

godzuki26 wrote:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 4:30 am
I am using a 2mm spacer on the driveside Crank arm to leave space between the chainstay and the chainring.
if you're using what looks like a double chainring crankset, with a boost 148 x 12mm frame, you'll always have issues with both chainring clearance with the frame & chainline.

The "boost" width can either be incorporated into the chainring, or the crank, so compatibility is a bit of a confusing mess between different brands.

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Marin
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by Marin

godzuki26 wrote:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 4:30 am

I need help with the THM Clavicula DP crankset.
Just use the outer chainring position and remove the BB spacer. Chainline will be ok and you can use shorter chainring bolts too.

BmanX
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by BmanX

Depending on chainring size, you might have to move it to the outer position. I would remove the 2mm spacer and move this to the outside. The chainline should be close to what you have now or 1-2mm further out.
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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

@Atterman - I have a bigger problem with this custom bottom bracket as I am finding it does not support the carbon 30mm spindle of the THM crankset. After installation, I am noticing that it does not feel solid and may flex. I will need a different bottom bracket with wider bearings. I have this one that I ordered from Bikeonline a while back. Still half the weight of the THM branded bottom bracket.

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

Thank you everyone for the suggestions on the crank installation. I first removed the spacer I had on the drive side crank arm. I then pushed the drive side crank arm all the way through. After this, I removed the chainring from the inner chainring to the outer chainring to create more space between the chainring and the chainstay. This will not work because the chainring no longer lines up with any teeth on the cassette. The chainline is way off if I do this. So, I put the chainring back on the inside position of the chainring spider. This seems the only way to get this crankset to work. Fortunately there is plenty of clearance between the crank arm and chainstay. However, the chainring is now very close to the chainstay. I have Slightly less than a 3 mm gap. My question is, will this be safe to ride? Will the chainring teeth hit the chainstay under torque? Please help me!

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BmanX
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by BmanX

I believe this will be OK but I am sure there is a standard that should be met that is more like 5mm or something. You have more space than I do on my English 1x build as I only have 2.5mm and on my 29er 1x build I have 3.25mm and I have never had any issues. The English build is new with only a few rides but no issues.

My standard MTB 26” 1x build is more like 5mm but I had to run that ring on the outside which is not as good of a chain line as the others
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Alexbn921
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by Alexbn921

That is way too close if you plan to really ride the bike and put down some power. The frame will flex from pedaling and bumps.
I would at a minimum put some 6mil Heli tape on the area where contact might happen. This will protect the frame and give you a visual indication of rubbing or indentations.

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

Thanks for the tips. I was worried about the possibility of flexing. I am going to install the Boost e*Thirteen XCXR crankset and see how much space is between the chainstay and chainring as a reference. I may have to swap to this if I also notice a huge variance in the chain line. It would be terrible to not have a proper chain line which will result in the premature wear of the Ingrid Cassette. I'll take some pics. I'm looking at only a 30 gram penalty if I abandon the THM Clavicula DP crankset.
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mattr
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by mattr

godzuki26 wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 3:38 am
This will not work because the chainring no longer lines up with any teeth on the cassette. The chainline is way off if I do this.
Chain line is not a precision measurement.
If the chainring is that close to the stay, the chances are that you are way under the nominal chainline measurement anyway, unless Scott made a frame that you can't actually build.

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

@mattr - I never understood what a Boost spec crankset/chainring meant until now. I will see the real difference once I install the e*Thirteen crank. The issue here is me trying to fit a crank that was discontinued before 142mm and 148mm spacing became a standard. I am still trying to figure out how Moyo installed his. I am using a 32T chainring and it is VERY close. He installed a 36T and got it to work but how? He did eventually end up selling his Clavicula crank so maybe it wasn't working too well as well?
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mattr
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by mattr

How? Probably fitted it on the outside of the tabs. Or used a spacer on the axle and lived with a less than optimium crank/spindle interface.

Plenty of people running boost and non boost stuff together. As long as you clear the chainstay, pretty much *anything* should function.
(And 142mm doesn't make any difference to the chainline, it's effectively an endcap swap.)

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robbosmans
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by robbosmans

Chainline is very important with sram eagle, 2 mm to much and you wont be able to backpedal on the larger cogs.


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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

My Eagle AXS shifter and rear derailleur finally shipped from Germany yesterday. I got a pretty good deal on BikeInn and they ship SRAM products to the USA. With shipping included it was $749 out the door but I had to wait 4 weeks as it was a pre order item. Those are the last pieces for me to finish this bike before I can actually ride the damn thing.

In the mean time, Poynt forwarded me a link to a company called Aserra. They make some fancy ass bolts made of titanium and carbon. Very nicely made and light. Still weigh more than my C2works prototype axles. Maybe something to consider in the future but not for me right now. I won’t be spending any more money on this build. Good info to share though.

I wonder if these axles are like my Shift-Up pseudo carbon axle? Is it a full carbon rod or is it a thinned out titanium rod wrapped in carbon? I don't want to buy one just to find out. Can someone get one and cut it in half to see? J/K :lol:

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Arfer01
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by Arfer01


Hopp posted this yesterday, surprised nobody posted it on here yet, I hope they are available


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