BMC Teammachine SLR01 TWO Di2 Disc

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iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

I did a bike fit a couple weeks ago and I went back to the standard seatpost. The fitter said that I was positioned too far forward which caused some knee and shoulder pain. Moving the saddle backwards and upwards certainly made longer rides more enjoyable and one nice surprise was a boost in performance. By having the saddle too far forward, I was limiting the use of my hamstrings + glutes, and I was over using my quads... I didn't know any better since I'm a fairly novice cyclist. I should have gone to do a bike fit years ago!

Here are a couple new photos from my recent rides.

Col du Marchairuz
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Solo ride around lac leman
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by Weenie


g32ecs
Posts: 681
Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:50 am

by g32ecs

Hey, since you did your fitting, wondering what your bb to top of the saddle and tip of the saddle to bar top measurements?

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

Saddle tip to bar is 51.5cm. Bottom bracket to top of saddle is 70.5cm. I am 172cm with an inseam of 81cm.

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

I purchased my first powermeter with the intention to do more structured training efforts. After a bunch of research, I settled on a 4iii left-sided Precision powermeter which is mounted on a Ultegra 6800 crankarm. It was a far bit cheaper than the R8000 crankarm which I technically should have purchased to match my R8000 crankset. But when you see them side-by-side, there's very little difference in design and color. The R8000 arm is a bit wider though you would be bery hardpressed to spot the difference

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R8000 on top and 68000 below.

asiantrick
Posts: 257
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:18 pm
Location: the OC, CA

by asiantrick

Anyone know what is the max tire clearance for this frame?

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

I recently switched from 25mm to 28mm Vittoria Corsas (measured 28mm on a 18mm internal/25mm externa rim). There is 4mm of clearance on the fork and 3mm clearance on the rear seat stay.

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

Quest for a new saddle:

The starting point...Selle SMP Lite 209.
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I’ve had this saddle for a couple years and while it was comfortable, it was quite heavy (321g) and you cannot adjust your sitting position due to the shape of the Selle SMPs. The shape is fine for rides around 3 hours, but I would get sore for anything longer and I believe it’s cause I was ‘fixed’ to the saddle. Also, I found the extreme nose of the Selle SMPs useless and quite ugly to be honest. I did like the curved back, width, and cutout, but I wanted something lighter and a bit flatter so I could around move around more.

Sticking with the Selle SMP family, I put a bid for a Selle SMP Carbon which I ended up winning for next to nothing
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In photos it looked like the SMP Carbon saddle was flatter than the Lite 209, but I was disappointed to find that they are really the same shape. The saddle was considerably lighter (163g), but comfort was nonexistant due to the inox rails and the lack of padding on the bare carbon shell. It was also very slippery. I only had this saddle for a month before selling it on for a profit.

I read a lot of positive reviews on the Specialized Romin. It seemed like a good candidate due to the cutout and the shape looked similar to the Selle SMP, but without the extreme curvature on the nose. So I bid on a new old stock Specialized Romin Pro (208g) and fell in love when it arrived. The slightly flatter shape allowed me to sit in the front, middle or back of the saddle. The curved back gave me something to push against while climbing. The cut out eliminated any numbness. I finally found the saddle for me... (or so I thought)
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But of course, this is ww and I wanted to shave a few more grams. That brings to me today and the saddle that’s currently on my bike…S-Works Romin Evo. The shape is very similar to the Romin Pro with a bit more. What’s more is it shaved a considerable amount of weight from where I started… only 126g for a side 143mm. I've read that people didn't like the shortened nose of the Romin Evo vs the older Romin Pro, but I cannot tell the difference at all. I do notice that the Evo is more comfortable than the Pro.
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The old Romin Pro is now on my steel winter/commuter rig.
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iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

New Cassette

Inspired by a fellow ww, I've put together an 12-32t franken cassette. My 11t cogs are always pristine from never using that gear so when I learned that you can tune a SRAM RED XG-1190 cassettte by removing the 11t cog, I was very intrigued. Using an 11-28t Red cassette as a starting point, I ditched the 11t, added a new Token 12t lockring (5g), and added a Miche Primato Light 32t with a small Miche spacer (44g).

The final product is a cassette is around the same weight (199g with lockring) than the SRAM Red equivalent 11-32t with ratios that suit me more. 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,22,25,28,32t
IMG_9602.jpg

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

I also ditched the Ultegra rotors for Shimano XTR 160mm/140mm and swapped in some Continental Supersonic tubes.

Total bike including one bottle cage, computer mount and pedals is 7.230kg
SNAG-0283.jpg

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IMG_9591.jpg

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

A couple minor changes.

First, I wanted to go with a narrower bar with a more compact shape. The previous Easton EC90 SLX3 bars were 40cm width, 75mm reach and 130mm drop and the shape of the drops had a more traditional round curve. I found a good alternative in the Cannondale Escape Carbon bar which comes in at 38cm (at the hoods), 70mm reach and 125mm drop with a tighter radius. The new bars also save 9 grams, though the change was mainly for fit reasons.

Second, I swapped the spindles in my DuraAce pedals to titanium spindles from Titanium Planet. Installing the new spindles was pretty straightforward though removing the circlip was a bit finicky. However, setting the preload on the pedals afterwards was a pain in the ass since a very minute movement of the preload ring caused a big difference in play. That saved another 34g.

Stock pedals at 248g
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Modified pedals at 214g
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hannawald
Posts: 813
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

I didn´t know there are reliable titanium spindles for dura ace pedals. From what i have read Shimano uses bearing system that is not friendly to titanium..
Btw nice change to golden stickers (or paint), your bike looks good. I just don´t like ultegra rotors appearance, but you have already changed them to xtr. What are your other upgrade plans?:)

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

It was just gold vinyl. I got a bit tired of it and just covered the blue with black vinyl so now the bike is a bit more stealthy and the drive side and non-drive side now match.

As for the Titanium spindles, I was hesitant since I couldn't find many reviews or experiences of Dura Ace spindle upgrades; there are plenty of folks upgrading their Look or Speedplays. Since these were fairly inexpensive and the shop is in Switzerland (where I am), I just went for it. I'm planning to use them on the trainer for now and use my Ultegra R8000 pedals for riding outdoors until I get a build my confidence in them. I'll inspect the axles for wear after a few months to see if there is any play or wear on the bearing races.

Edit: To answer your question, no major plans for now. When these tires wear out, I may switch to Veloflex Masters in 25mm which could save another 80g. I'd love to get the bike to 7.0kg. A wheel upgrade (like the 30mm Feders from Farsports laced to Carbon-Ti hubs) would certainly get me there, but that's a bit more than I want to spend right now.

Hellok
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2018 6:57 pm

by Hellok

Great work there and bike is looking awesome.

I also have exactly the same bike and was looking at a di2 upgrade. Fearful that I might be missing minor BMC Parts and tools to carry out the job myself though!

Can you recommend how I can vinyl out the blue too? Did you have to provide the art files to the vinyl supplier or something?

TIA!

iamraymond
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

Hellok wrote:
Sat Apr 18, 2020 11:39 am
Great work there and bike is looking awesome.

I also have exactly the same bike and was looking at a di2 upgrade. Fearful that I might be missing minor BMC Parts and tools to carry out the job myself though!

Can you recommend how I can vinyl out the blue too? Did you have to provide the art files to the vinyl supplier or something?

TIA!
If you are considering the di2 upgrade, I've made a whole thread about that here:viewtopic.php?f=3&t=152331 It has the part numbers you'll need to order to convert to Di2 and the part numbers you'll need to get from your BMC dealer.

The vinyl I used was 3M 1080 which you can find on eBay fairly easily. Don't cheap out on the crappy vinyl you can buy from China, it doesn't last very long and will eventually start tearing or peeling. It also doesn't stretch around the curves very well. The 3M vinyl has been very robust and is much easier to apply: with a little pressure it will conform around any curve.

Here's a photo of what the bike looks like now:
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lvanbever
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Apr 10, 2020 2:26 pm

by lvanbever

Hi folks,

I'm the happy owner of a BMC SLR01 Disc 2020 Four for the last 4 months or so! Really love the bike so far.

I was wondering whether any of you managed to fit a left-side only Stages Power Meter to it? When doing the 10mm hex wrench test (as recommended by Stages themselves: http://support.stagescycling.eu/en/supp ... wer-meter-), I see that the hex wrench doesn't fit everywhere in the clearance zone.

Any experience to share?

by Weenie


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