Dogma Build - Technical Questions (and answers hopefully)

[Calnago]

@Alistaird: that’s all you need to do, You’re good to go re the BB.
And I agree on the headset. Those Pinarello type headsets are as you say, a pain in the ass. Leave well enough alone until you’re sure the bearings are shot.

[alistaird]

So my next question is around removing the logos from the FSA Carbon stem - can I use acetone and do I need to protect it aftwards from UV with some form of clear spray protections?

Thanks

A

[alistaird]

Do I need to face this BB? This is a magnesium alloy frame with a ceramic finish. My guess is the BB is steel and it's quite ok to face it or should I leave well alone?



Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

[alistaird]

I should have added - external BB cups. All my research says - needs facing. ...

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

[Calnago]

Personally, I’d always face something like that, but realize that a lot of folks, shops included, don’t. I’m sure the shell was faced at the factory, but then they go spray over it with paint, so all it would need is a light spin to remove that layer of paint. From your pics, it looks fairly uniform so you could probably get away just fine without facing. The other thing is being a Pinarello, those threads are probably Italian, so you’d need either the bushings (non cutting) or taps (be gentle) to insert along with the facing tool. Unless you see varying thickness of paint that has pooled to one side or the other of the shell, creating an uneven surface, I’d probably just leave it. If, after you install the cups and crankset, you find that the crank doesn’t spin totally freely, then it’s not a big deal just to remove it and face it, but from looking at it (that side at least), I suspect you’ll be good.

[alistaird]

Personally, I’d always face something like that, but realize that a lot of folks, shops included, don’t. I’m sure the shell was faced at the factory, but then they go spray over it with paint, so all it would need is a light spin to remove that layer of paint. From your pics, it looks fairly uniform so you could probably get away just fine without facing. The other thing is being a Pinarello, those threads are probably Italian, so you’d need either the bushings (non cutting) or taps (be gentle) to insert along with the facing tool. Unless you see varying thickness of paint that has pooled to one side or the other of the shell, creating an uneven surface, I’d probably just leave it. If, after you install the cups and crankset, you find that the crank doesn’t spin totally freely, then it’s not a big deal just to remove it and face it, but from looking at it (that side at least), I suspect you’ll be good.

Thanks, the ceramic finish is great and it seems a shame to spoil it... You're correct on Italian threads, and as per my Colnago E1, it's getting an Over Torque crank... So I might need to face it if the tolerance is tight as the cranks aren't designed for a 70mm wide BB. Hopefully though an installation as per last time with a wavy washer instead of the 2mm expanding spacer will do the trick....

A

Sent from my SGP312 using Tapatalk

[beanbiken]

Really looking forward to seeing this completed, lusted over one of theses for quite some time but could never find one in my size that I would be happy with. Really wanted a NOS frameset.......... enjoy

BB

[Calnago]

Did Overtorque have Italian cups available? If so, why wouldn’t you get some of those instead? I’ve never installed an Overtorque crank but I know it uses a mechanical preload versus the wavy washer. I’d try to install it correctly if I were you, unless it’s impossible to source the required bits to fit it to an Italian BB at this point.

[alistaird]

Did Overtorque have Italian cups available? If so, why wouldn’t you get some of those instead? I’ve never installed an Overtorque crank but I know it uses a mechanical preload versus the wavy washer. I’d try to install it correctly if I were you, unless it’s impossible to source the required bits to fit it to an Italian BB at this point.

I've been through this on my E1, they never made Italian cups.... Used a Campagnolo trained tech to do the other install ..

Normally you use a 2mm expandable spacer to take up the "slack" in the spindle (with no pre load) but with the 2mm difference in English and Italian BBs there is no room. I had a load of spacers of differing thicknesses but found the wavy washer worked best even though it applies some pre load to the bearings. Time will tell but no problems on my E1 though it's in for a respray....

A

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[alistaird]

A slightly more general BB query. I'm looking again at my proposed Over Torque BB intall and I am wondering about the external seals for the BB Bearings. Both installs will have 42x30x7 bearings with seals (I will have 2 bikes with OT BBs - one which will be SS bearings and one will have ceramic if it makes any difference.)

I'm wondering about the requirement for the additional rubber seal in the install - does it serve any real purpose or just there to try and reduce the chance of water cr@p getting into the bearings and a good helping of waterproof grease would work just as well if not better?

Here is the seal from the OT manual.

And it looks like it serve the same purpose as on here?

To me - it's not offering any structural support (as it's rubber - but also on an OT install it's not under any real horizontal load to enable it to seal against the bearing anyway?

Any thought welcome...

A

[alistaird]

Has anyone got a view on these rubber seals/gaskets on external bearing bottom brackets? I'm jus tinterested in thoughts as to their value vs waterproof grease?

Thanks

A