El Cheapo Caad10

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LouisN
Posts: 3526
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

Since you mentioned "el cheapo"...It's really easy to strip an alloy frame. Just brush the frame with a paintbrush with paint stripper and the clearcoat and paint will peel off, no need to use scrapers or abrasive stuff. Rinse and wipe off, done. Make sure you remove the bearings, and keep the fork away. The fork would have to be sanded down to the carbon. It's 200g + removed right there, plus the "badass look", for FREE ;) !!!

Louis :)

centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

Confused!!! In a dillema

by Weenie


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jorisee01
Posts: 386
Joined: Mon May 04, 2015 8:22 pm

by jorisee01

For inspiration
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=ht ... are_type=t

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

Decent set of 34mm alloy clinchers. 1550gm without skewers

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Front wheel
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Rear wheel with Ultegra 6700 10spd 12-25 cassette
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centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

Nice weight for 25mm width!

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SpecializedColnago
Posts: 227
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2016 11:33 pm

by SpecializedColnago

Strip it and polish it. This is a CAAD 9 but your 10 would polish up the same way with time and patience. When I ride this bike I get more questions and comments about it then when I am riding my Red Hook Allez Sprint.

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centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

SpecializedColnago wrote:
Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:11 pm
Strip it and polish it. This is a CAAD 9 but your 10 would polish up the same way with time and patience. When I ride this bike I get more questions and comments about it then when I am riding my Red Hook Allez Sprint.

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Wow.... Looks amazing....👍

SpecializedColnago
Posts: 227
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2016 11:33 pm

by SpecializedColnago

Thanks! It’s hard to tell from the picture but it is polished to a mirror finish. If you want information on the process of stripping and polishing just let me know, but be warned, it took me 40 hours of stripping, sanding, and finally polishing to make it look like this.

centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

Some more parts arrived! :D

Non authentic .... Cheap and cheerful
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Wet black 110mm Ritchey wcs stem tuned with black ti bolts
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Weight of the ti bolts
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Brandless ti skewers
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ianeire
Posts: 132
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:08 pm
Location: Dublin, Ireland

by ianeire

SpecializedColnago wrote:
Thu Sep 13, 2018 5:24 pm
Thanks! It’s hard to tell from the picture but it is polished to a mirror finish. If you want information on the process of stripping and polishing just let me know, but be warned, it took me 40 hours of stripping, sanding, and finally polishing to make it look like this.
Would love to know more!

SpecializedColnago
Posts: 227
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2016 11:33 pm

by SpecializedColnago

ianeire wrote:
Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:25 pm
SpecializedColnago wrote:
Thu Sep 13, 2018 5:24 pm
Thanks! It’s hard to tell from the picture but it is polished to a mirror finish. If you want information on the process of stripping and polishing just let me know, but be warned, it took me 40 hours of stripping, sanding, and finally polishing to make it look like this.
Would love to know more!
Its started as a NOS team frame for a local shop and it was painted blueand silver. The first thing I had to do was strip the paint. For that I used some aircraft stripper in an aersol can. I picked it up from Home Depot. You just spray it on and the paint bubbles up and loosens off of the frame. You can scrap or use the garden hose to spray off the loose paint. It took 2 applcations to get 90% of the paint off. The The next step is 400 grit sandpaper. Standard sandpaper works alright but if you can find Norton Soft Touch Sanding Sponges i highly recommend those. Work the whole frame over with the 400 grit then continue this process with finer grades of sandpaper until you end up at 1500 grit. You can go all the way to 2000 grit if you want but not really neccessary if you are mechanically going to buff it later. After you have uniformly sanded it with 1500 grit then it is time to break out the buffer with the aluminum compound buffing bars. This is the step that takes the most time. A pedestal mounted buffer would be optimal but i used a handheld, battery powered drill with a few different shapped buffing wheels to allow me to access some of the tougher areas. You essentially keep working the frame with the buffer until you are happy with the level of shine. Once you are happy with the finish you can use Mothers Aluminum Polish to finish off the frame by hand. This really cleans it up and gets rid of whatever fine scratches. If you want a mirror finish like i did expect to spend at least 40 hours working on it. You are essentially removing the microscopic high spots of the aluminum to give it a uniform appearance which is what gives it shine. To maintain the finish you just need to hit the frame with the Mothers Aluminum Polish once every 2 or 3 weeks or about every week if you ride in a lot of rain. It takes about 10 minutes to go over the whole frame again. The process is not difficult it just takes time and you have to have a few tools at your disposal.

centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

Putting it together before handing over to my mechanic

Black or green bartape??

Image

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LouisN
Posts: 3526
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

Green is out ( since 2013 ;) ).
Black tape + strip the thing !!

Louis :)

centurionAL
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:51 am

by centurionAL

SpecializedColnago wrote:
Thu Sep 20, 2018 12:32 pm
ianeire wrote:
Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:25 pm
SpecializedColnago wrote:
Thu Sep 13, 2018 5:24 pm
Thanks! It’s hard to tell from the picture but it is polished to a mirror finish. If you want information on the process of stripping and polishing just let me know, but be warned, it took me 40 hours of stripping, sanding, and finally polishing to make it look like this.
Would love to know more!
Its started as a NOS team frame for a local shop and it was painted blueand silver. The first thing I had to do was strip the paint. For that I used some aircraft stripper in an aersol can. I picked it up from Home Depot. You just spray it on and the paint bubbles up and loosens off of the frame. You can scrap or use the garden hose to spray off the loose paint. It took 2 applcations to get 90% of the paint off. The The next step is 400 grit sandpaper. Standard sandpaper works alright but if you can find Norton Soft Touch Sanding Sponges i highly recommend those. Work the whole frame over with the 400 grit then continue this process with finer grades of sandpaper until you end up at 1500 grit. You can go all the way to 2000 grit if you want but not really neccessary if you are mechanically going to buff it later. After you have uniformly sanded it with 1500 grit then it is time to break out the buffer with the aluminum compound buffing bars. This is the step that takes the most time. A pedestal mounted buffer would be optimal but i used a handheld, battery powered drill with a few different shapped buffing wheels to allow me to access some of the tougher areas. You essentially keep working the frame with the buffer until you are happy with the level of shine. Once you are happy with the finish you can use Mothers Aluminum Polish to finish off the frame by hand. This really cleans it up and gets rid of whatever fine scratches. If you want a mirror finish like i did expect to spend at least 40 hours working on it. You are essentially removing the microscopic high spots of the aluminum to give it a uniform appearance which is what gives it shine. To maintain the finish you just need to hit the frame with the Mothers Aluminum Polish once every 2 or 3 weeks or about every week if you ride in a lot of rain. It takes about 10 minutes to go over the whole frame again. The process is not difficult it just takes time and you have to have a few tools at your disposal.
Thks for sharing! How about the fork? I find that the tricky part is stripping paint off the carbon fork. Pls enlighten!!

Jopie666
Posts: 48
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2016 9:48 am
Location: Den Haag

by Jopie666

The fork is quiet easy. Sand it by hand with 280, or 320 grit sandpaper. Concentrate on the coloured parts because I think the black parts might be the carbon itself (it was on my hi-mod fork). Once the coulour is gone use a 400 grit paper to sand the whole fork and take out the rough scratches.
After that you can take a 500 grit, and not really necessary, maybe another step of lighter sandpaper.
Clean it very well with some, not so aggressive, degreaser and after that a wipe of alcohol.
Than you can put on a clear coat out of a spray can (2 or three thin layers should do the trick) or take it to a body shop and ask if they can do it for you.
Oh, it's all right. I'm sure that we can handle this situation maturely, just like the responsible adults that we are. Isn't that right, Mr... Poopy Pants?

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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