Second this, it took me a couple of weeks to align the caliper on my new flat mount fork so it doesn't rub in stand after every ride. The brake still rubs a bit after heavy braking, but I can live with that. I'd face the fork, but none of bike shops in my 1M city have flat mount facing kit and only one can face post mount.
Ryan Gets Trendy: Wilier Cento10Air Disc :shock:
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Have the caliper mounts been faced? I swap wheels back and forward on my ViAS using the same centerlock discs with 2 wheelsets and it lines up every time provided I torque the disc down properly.
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Ryan, thx for the update, its great hearing about your experiances in such detail.
From your reasearch do most disk brake bikes have these same kind of issues ? (What a pain)
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From your reasearch do most disk brake bikes have these same kind of issues ? (What a pain)
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C64 My Sixty 4 SR EPS 12
Well I have experienced this issue when I was running Sram Red rim brakes, but never with disc.
Those Red calipers would rub up against the rim if I looked at them funny, even had to carry a little brake centering wrench in my kit, it was a PITA
With my disc bike, I frequently remove the front wheel to load it in my car (and swap between wheels) and have had no rub issues
My disc brakes have been mostly set em and forget em, the only time I have to mess with brake rub is after putting new pads in, and it is not that big of a deal to sort it out. Occasionally they will rub after a hard braking event but goes away after they cool, this happens more often when I run my Enve wheels vs my Giant wheels though.
My only dissapointment has been burning through pads pretty quick (about 2000-2500 miles), but I do a lot of technical descending and use the brakes hard. There has also been a couple of occasions where something contaminated the brakes and they started to squeal, I was able to fix it pretty easily each time but mildly irritating because I had to deal with it as I was rushing out the door to catch a ride. And brake squeal also happens with rim brakes, so not something new to have to deal with.
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I think that's the crux of it. My typical rides encompass several stops at the bottom of steep hills. 60+ kph down to 10 or 0 for a busy, often blind, intersection. Sure, I could modulate my speed the whole way down so that I'm not having to shed so much speed all at once but there's no fun in that My experience riding rim brakes on those roads is that they require a lot of force to stop and you eat up rims. If you ride in even damp weather, the brakes are even more sketchy and you eat up rims (and pads) real quick (only have ever used aluminum clincher rims with rim brakes, FWIW). Switching to a front disc only on my commuter completely eliminated my issues with these stops. Going full disc on my latest road bike makes stopping even easier as I now use the rear brake, too.RyanH wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:14 pmIt depends where you are riding and how often you encounter situations like I was describing. Prior to moving to my new place, I rarely rode on roads like these, now it's part of my daily routine.joejack951 wrote: I hear a lot about how carbon wheels brake acceptably with rim brakes. Is this considered acceptable? How many other disc-skeptics feel the same way about stopping?
Keep in mind too that Hollywood Hills is notorious for narrow, super tight turns and being very steep. It's a challenge driving through the area, let alone riding at normal speeds. I think very few people are riding on roads that are effectively one lane but two directions of traffic with parked cars along one side of the road, super tight blind turns, broken pavement and stop signs at the bottom or in the middle of a double digit grade road.
Tuna Canyon, for example, is a fairly notorious descent in the Santa Monica Mountains and I think averages 12% with some parts in the high teens. It's known to destroy carbon clinchers but I wouldn't hesitate to ride it on carbon tubulars. So, that's why for the most part carbon is good enough. As long as you're a somewhat competent descender, even on one of the most notorious descents you'll be fine. Your hands will be a little tired and disc brakes may have given you more margin for error but for all intents and purposes you probably will make it down Tuna in roughly the same time and you'll have gone up it with a lot less weight and finicky setup.
Anyway, best of luck with the sweet looking bike! Can't wait to see what you come up with to bring the weight down.
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I know you sold your T3 recently. Do you see yourself keeping this disc bike as long as the T3?
I'm still undecided regarding disc brake, since I used to own one. It was a pain in the butt regarding rubbing and pad contamination.
I'm still undecided regarding disc brake, since I used to own one. It was a pain in the butt regarding rubbing and pad contamination.
That one is up in the air. I was pretty frustrated over the weekend about showing up to a big ride and having to deal with centering calipers but that was most likely my fault since I didn't put the block in. I was at the point though after that morning where I almost put the Wilier up for sale instead. I had the T3 for almost two years, which was a surprise to me considering the average lifespan of every other bike I've owned, but also keep in mind those other bikes weren't kept that long because I had the T3 and they never measured up to the T3 as an all around package, this bike does. I will say that I'd be hesitant to get another carbon bike other than a Wilier, I've dabbled enough to know that what Wilier did was pretty unique. It's like they took the downhill mannerism of an Evo and married it with the comfort of the Litespeed and the BB snap of the Tarmac.
If I do go back to rim brakes, it'll be a tossup between this bike in DM and a T1sl.
If I do go back to rim brakes, it'll be a tossup between this bike in DM and a T1sl.
RE: the pad centering, the block will help when transporting yes but IME if your brakes a properly bled and the caliper aligned you should have enough clearance that you can take the wheel in and out all day long without having the disc rub on the caliper. I have an EVO Disc and once the calipers are setup and properly alinged I literally forget about them until I need to change the pads or something. Is there any paint on or around where the caliper mounts to the frame?RyanH wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:14 pmThat one is up in the air. I was pretty frustrated over the weekend about showing up to a big ride and having to deal with centering calipers but that was most likely my fault since I didn't put the block in. I was at the point though after that morning where I almost put the Wilier up for sale instead. I had the T3 for almost two years, which was a surprise to me considering the average lifespan of every other bike I've owned, but also keep in mind those other bikes weren't kept that long because I had the T3 and they never measured up to the T3 as an all around package, this bike does. I will say that I'd be hesitant to get another carbon bike other than a Wilier, I've dabbled enough to know that what Wilier did was pretty unique. It's like they took the downhill mannerism of an Evo and married it with the comfort of the Litespeed and the BB snap of the Tarmac.
If I do go back to rim brakes, it'll be a tossup between this bike in DM and a T1sl.
Progress comes in bits and pieces. Took out the Wilier expander and removed one side of the Extralite Ultrastar. Much to my surprise it fit into the odd steerer tube.
Today's savings: 20g
Today's savings: 20g
I'd be a little concerned about the stress created by the small contact point where the outer was removed, but Ryan's a smart guy and won't overtighten it.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6. ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
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