Dengfu M06
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
New stuff to put on later:
Schwalbe Rocket Ron Lightskin speed, 29x2.25 - 31g less than Thunder Burt SS. I want to try more traction in front for damp soil and sand. McLeod shock, ~8g less than Radium DC according to the speadsheet, gonna reweight everything later.
Schwalbe Rocket Ron Lightskin speed, 29x2.25 - 31g less than Thunder Burt SS. I want to try more traction in front for damp soil and sand. McLeod shock, ~8g less than Radium DC according to the speadsheet, gonna reweight everything later.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I'm late to the party here, but that X-Shifter looks interesting! Great concept.
It's a shame that you can't stuff it into the downtube or similar to conceal the unit, with having only the outer cable exiting the chanstay like a full mechanical setup - that would look extra neat (however would carry a weight penalty for extra cable outer & inner...)
It's a shame that you can't stuff it into the downtube or similar to conceal the unit, with having only the outer cable exiting the chanstay like a full mechanical setup - that would look extra neat (however would carry a weight penalty for extra cable outer & inner...)
According to XShifter creator, Paul Gallagher, they have plans to work on exactly that with third party frame manufacturers and a slimmer XShifter revision.smacd wrote: ↑Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:46 pmIt's a shame that you can't stuff it into the downtube or similar to conceal the unit, with having only the outer cable exiting the chanstay like a full mechanical setup - that would look extra neat (however would carry a weight penalty for extra cable outer & inner...)
So I was doing a tubeless dance when the tire blew off right in my hands. Probably because I went way overboard at 55 psi. No sealant got into my eyes, but I had to remove latex from hair and arms. Ears still ring a bit an hour afterwards. Curiously, Barbieri valve stem broke off, I have no idea why. Tomorrow I'll have to repeat tubeless procedure again and find a replacement valve.
@Klaster_1: Were you using a hand pump and pushing on the valve stem when this happened? Just wondering how that would happen if a floor pump or compressor with a flexible hose was being used.
In any case, your hair will clean up I’m sure. But what’s your ceiling look like?
In any case, your hair will clean up I’m sure. But what’s your ceiling look like?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
No, the floor pump was detached, just a wheel in two hands. Probably sheared off by lateral forces from tire blowoff.
It had a nice splash of Orange But not much, since I only put 40ml in. Reminds me of condensed milk explosion, now that's a mess to remove.
By the way, Tune aluminium valve nut is lighter than Barbieri plastic nut. I expected the opposite. Gonna put tune nut on the remaining valve to negate weight gain.
Today I decided to install the new chainring. Something urged me to compare chainline between the two, KA Engineering (32t, oval, non-boost) should have 5.1mm offset and Garbaruk Melon 32t should have 5.3mm offset. Pretty negligible, right? Nope, KA Eng chaingring sits ~2mm more outboard. When compared to a 34t round non-boost RF chainring, which has 51mm chainline, Kaeng teeth center matches that of RF very closely. Looks like offset value is calculated differently by kaeng, when you subtract 2mm you get 49mm chainline, pretty close to 49.1mm of Garbaruk. This stuff is rather confusing to be honest.
Long story short, the Xshifter battery has died due to negligence and lack of any documentation on how to maintain it. No product support is available, Xshifter forum does not accept posts from new users because there seems to be no-one to pre-moderate messages. At the moment, I am in a slow process of repairing the battery.
To open the battery, I used a rotary tool. Cut a window in the bottom, around the label. When you see blue shrinkwrap through the cut, the cut is deep enough. The battery pack sits quite flush, use electronics disassembly tools to extract it. The label reads "GEB 3S1P 501746" and "11.1v 350mAh". GEB is the manufacturer, "3" probably means "3 cells", "1746" are dimensions (46mm long, 17mm tall), "50" might be the thickness (5mm). Asking over the Internet never hurts, so I don't hesitate to contact companies. Surprisingly, GEB replied to my email the next day and agreed to manufacture the battery pack for a mere 5USD, I ordered two just in case. This will take a while, so I decided to remove the shrinkwrap and see what's inside. The three cells are connected in serial to a PCB. As an electronics noob, I can't tell what exactly the PCB does apart from a guess that it controls charge and maybe discharge. The PCB is in turn connected to another PCB that interfaces with the outside via micro USB for charge and two contact points for discharge. I did not measure pack charge current and what voltage/current goes from the USB PCB to the pack PCB. If you know electronics, making a custom Xshifter battery should be super easy with off the shelf parts and 3D printing, the cradle design even allows for a taller battery with more capacity.
Rough cell dimension measurements: Update:
One of the cell might be dead. After several months of standby, two cells output 4.13V and the third only 0.7V.
To open the battery, I used a rotary tool. Cut a window in the bottom, around the label. When you see blue shrinkwrap through the cut, the cut is deep enough. The battery pack sits quite flush, use electronics disassembly tools to extract it. The label reads "GEB 3S1P 501746" and "11.1v 350mAh". GEB is the manufacturer, "3" probably means "3 cells", "1746" are dimensions (46mm long, 17mm tall), "50" might be the thickness (5mm). Asking over the Internet never hurts, so I don't hesitate to contact companies. Surprisingly, GEB replied to my email the next day and agreed to manufacture the battery pack for a mere 5USD, I ordered two just in case. This will take a while, so I decided to remove the shrinkwrap and see what's inside. The three cells are connected in serial to a PCB. As an electronics noob, I can't tell what exactly the PCB does apart from a guess that it controls charge and maybe discharge. The PCB is in turn connected to another PCB that interfaces with the outside via micro USB for charge and two contact points for discharge. I did not measure pack charge current and what voltage/current goes from the USB PCB to the pack PCB. If you know electronics, making a custom Xshifter battery should be super easy with off the shelf parts and 3D printing, the cradle design even allows for a taller battery with more capacity.
Rough cell dimension measurements: Update:
One of the cell might be dead. After several months of standby, two cells output 4.13V and the third only 0.7V.
Replacement batteries manufactured by GEB:
They also confirmed that a single dead cell is a common failure mode.
Didn't post here for a while, so here's an update.
I damaged the DC-DC converter PCB while opening the battery case, so be careful. The solution was to use an external DC-DC converter wired up directly to the battery. Works great, but now I have to use a USB tester to indicate the charge completion, the stock battery red/green LED does not work anymore. Way cheaper than a replacement Xshiter battery. I finally managed to contact Cell Cycling, they flat out refused to send me a spare battery to Russia claiming "they can't send anything there, period", which sounds like total BS to me. They did not agree to send a battery case without cells either and just stopped responding. Worst customer experience ever, keep away from Cell Cycling.
Unfortunately, the bike does not see much use after moving to SpB, the city is just too big and trails too far away. No way to ride for a couple of hours after work on weekdays, and on weekends you either have to catch a train or spend a significant portion of a ride on the tarmac. To motivate myself use the bike more, I put on a ZTTO 12sp 9-46 cassette on, increasing the weight to 9.2kg.
I damaged the DC-DC converter PCB while opening the battery case, so be careful. The solution was to use an external DC-DC converter wired up directly to the battery. Works great, but now I have to use a USB tester to indicate the charge completion, the stock battery red/green LED does not work anymore. Way cheaper than a replacement Xshiter battery. I finally managed to contact Cell Cycling, they flat out refused to send me a spare battery to Russia claiming "they can't send anything there, period", which sounds like total BS to me. They did not agree to send a battery case without cells either and just stopped responding. Worst customer experience ever, keep away from Cell Cycling.
Unfortunately, the bike does not see much use after moving to SpB, the city is just too big and trails too far away. No way to ride for a couple of hours after work on weekdays, and on weekends you either have to catch a train or spend a significant portion of a ride on the tarmac. To motivate myself use the bike more, I put on a ZTTO 12sp 9-46 cassette on, increasing the weight to 9.2kg.