Kayrehn's Colnago C60 PLGL heavy bike

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Regarding the gap between the fork crown and the headtube, of course there has to be a gap there so the headtube and fork aren’t rubbing against each other, but if you look closely the lower bearing is actually sitting proud of the cup itself. It’s almost as if the lower bearing didn’t get quite pressed in all the way into the cup. It’s an interference pressfit between the bearing and the cup so just removing the fork, and seeing if you can press it in by hand likely won’t work. If it is not pressed in all the way, I would imagine that riding it might actually do it, so if you all of a sudden notice your headset become extremely loose, you’ll know why. I would contact Acros and send them that picture to get their thoughts. I’ve had to contact them before and they were very good in providing me with some hard to find specs. On my C60, the lower bearing does not sit proud of the cup like that.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Mockenrue
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by Mockenrue

Kayrehn wrote:
Fri Jun 01, 2018 1:58 pm
Image
Do you know that you can unscrew and remove that rear derailleur cable stop on the chainstay if you're using an electronic group?

by Weenie


bilwit
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by bilwit

worthy of an Olympic champion :lol:

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Kayrehn
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by Kayrehn

Thanks for all the comments folks!

Cable stop holes - I used sugru for my Fuji and will use it likewise if the plugs eventually proved useless.

Stem top cap/spacer - you're right, the brass spacer doesn't go but I didn't think much about it till you pointed it out. Perhaps I'll put a matte carbon spacer below the gold top cap

Lower headset bearings - will get the lbs to look at it again.

Rear derailleur cable guide - wanted to remove it but had slipped my mind previously - will definitely get it off!

Never raced before and not looking to build a 'podium bike' but just have a thing for bling. The wheel graphics decals had to be made thicker than the original lines so that the sharp ends of the logo-text doesn't peel easily, so the look is much more striking than how I envisioned it to be. Still nice, just different.

Next update in 2 weeks' time, when I put on new rings, chain, pulley wheels, BB (wasn't very smooth spinning even without the chain on)

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CAMSHAFT
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by CAMSHAFT

Kayrehn wrote:
Tue May 22, 2018 6:35 pm
Image

and the Krispy Kreme has a bright pink bolt.
Where did you get that Krisy Kreme top cap from? I am a North Carolinian, love the donuts, and it would be perfect on my ride!!

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Kayrehn
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by Kayrehn

Hey it was a gift so I'm not sure but I pretty sure it came from kapz.com. Didn't manage to find the exact design but there are donut ones here http://www.kapz.com/designer-headset-caps

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CAMSHAFT
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by CAMSHAFT

Gotcha... Thanks!

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Kimmoth
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by Kimmoth

Definitely go the carbon cap with gold bolt.

As for the fork gap, it looks like the crown race might settle a fraction of a mm, but you'll still be left with most of the gap. I'd consider trying to find a lower-profile crown race, or having that one machined (or even filing it, but doing a good job would be quite painstaking).

On one of my bikes I had a 1.5mm gap there with a fork upgrade, so I just ditched the crown 'race' altogether. It's not actually a bearing race but just a conical seat; in my case I just needed some tape around the base of the steerer to provide lateral location, and the bearing itself just rested on the shoulder of the fork. It's held up fine. If all else fails you could try something similar, but it looks like you'd need some sort of spacer under the bearing in addition to making it snug around the steerer.

The wheels look mad. Can't wait to see pics of the whole bike!

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Calnago
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by Calnago

I realize after relooking at this thread that that silver in the gap is the crown race, and not a bearing not fully seated. Totally normal gap in that case. My bad, I even commented at the beginning of the thread that it was odd the fork had a metal crown race instead of the molded one.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Kayrehn
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by Kayrehn

Just back from my holiday, and raring to go for my first ride in the evening. Tried to put on my bottle cages and I realised that the bosses are stuck with something plastic inside that's smooth and not threaded. Any help on how to remove this?

Image

@Calnago I'll ask the mechanic to look at the lower bearing still, because it seems to me like there's a gap between the fork steerer base and the bearings, and the bearings are not flushed with the head tube base.




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Calnago
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by Calnago

What the heck is in there, and it looks like something is on the top hole as well. I don’t remember ever seeing anything like that in any frame, let alone a C60. Only thing I could possibly think of might be remnants of the water bottle boss mounting hardware for an internal EPS battery, but this is a new frame, right? And I’ve never actually used the water bottle bosses to mount an internal battery, so I’m not familiar enough with it to know what they actually look like during install.

And pretty sure your headset/lower bearing and that gap are all just fine. Looked again at your earlier pic and I don’t see the bearing protruding (not flush). I mistakenly in one post thought it might be but then remembered commenting earlier even your fork had the split alloy crown race versus just the molded in crown race as part of the fork.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Kayrehn
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by Kayrehn

Ok a mechanic friend suggested that those are drilled out bolts and after a second check I think his assessment is right cos it is metallic rather than plastic. Yes the frame is brand new (supposedly but now who knows) and no I don't have an idea of how that can happen. An enlargement of the picture the dealer sent me before it was shipped showed them as well, so this time he can't accused me of doing some stupid DIY shit on it and damaging the frame on my own.

Speaking of which, the said dealer tried to bargain with me for the reimbursement of the frame blemish repair even though it was within his stated budget and to date he has not refunded me yet. And now this. I just wanna ride my bike...




Last edited by Kayrehn on Tue Jun 19, 2018 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Ugh! Something’s not right with those waterbottle bosses. I don’t think you’re getting the full story from the dealer. And who would drill them out in the first place. I think I’d try an extraction bit to hopefully remove what’s ever in them after applying some good penetrating oil around the edges and letting that sit a while. You don’t want to rip the bosses out. Is this a legit dealer you’re working with?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

zebra
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Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2015 2:02 pm

by zebra

I've just read this start to finsih. What on earth is going on here. Can this frame be genuine? I don't know enough about these bikes but based on the 3 pages I've read I would seriously be considering if it is legit.

This has been in the ridiculous position of going for paint........ from new, would the painter not have seen these during masking and do new frames not come with bottle cage bolts these days?

The whoe thing actually annoys me and it's not even my bike. Sorry to sound harsh.

by Weenie


ecl2k
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:13 am

by ecl2k

I agree, he should send the serial number and pictures to colnago and see what they think.

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