Focus Izalco Max Disc Ultegra R8000 di2

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brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

Here's the claimed weights list that I've managed to find references to so far, still quite a bit off but there's a lot of things missing weights!
Let me know if you have the weight of anything on this list that I'm currently missing.
I approximated the weight of the sealant in the tyres and it will only be vaguely accurate as I'm unsure of exactly how much was added.

edit: updated post to incorporate new weights, still a bit off measured but there are still a lot of components guessed and scale accuracy could also be a factor.

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Last edited by brackc on Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

kofsw4
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:28 pm

by kofsw4

Top cap and bolt 13g
Expander 43g
Six spacers 28g

Also, front rotor is 160mm so will be heavier (my RT900 was 128g compared to 110g for the 140mm rear)ImageImageImage

by Weenie


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Klaster_1
Posts: 370
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Krasnoyarsk, Russia

by Klaster_1

brackc wrote:
Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:12 am
Let me know if you have the weight of anything on this list that I'm currently missing.
The BH90 is ~21g per meter, Shimano straight hose furniture is 3.27g per end (olive, barb and nut). You can add an extra 1g to each shifter side because ST-R8070 nut has extra collar compared to ST-RS685. I have one lying around somewhere and can weight it if you want the precise value. Sealant, at least what I got to use, usually is 1g/ml, the trick is to use a syringe so you always know how much is in each tire. Your caliper weights are way off too, I'd estimate ~125g per one, plus ~15g for each flat mount bracket if there are any.

brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

Klaster1 wrote:
Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:59 am
brackc wrote:
Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:12 am
Let me know if you have the weight of anything on this list that I'm currently missing.
The BH90 is ~21g per meter, Shimano straight hose furniture is 3.27g per end (olive, barb and nut). You can add an extra 1g to each shifter side because ST-R8070 nut has extra collar compared to ST-RS685. I have one lying around somewhere and can weight it if you want the precise value. Sealant, at least what I got to use, usually is 1g/ml, the trick is to use a syringe so you always know how much is in each tire. Your caliper weights are way off too, I'd estimate ~125g per one, plus ~15g for each flat mount bracket if there are any.
ah, I mis-read the source, weight was for a pair hence 140g/calliper not 280, thanks for pointing that out!
1g/mL is a fair assumption and is what I've used so far, except I only roughly measured it... From a functional standpoint I don't care about the weight of sealant, as I'd rather have enough of it for it to work, it just helps to know the exact amount make sure I've tracked everything else correctly!

Izalcomaxdisc
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:41 am

by Izalcomaxdisc

Let me know how you go with the brake rub. I’m a relatively new owner of an izalco max disc too, and I’m also experiencing some brake rub during out of the saddle efforts.

Currently I’m trying to resolve it by increasing the rat axle pressure, but I think it might just come down to the design of the forks not being able to cope with it. Little disappointing since I love the rest of the bike.

Let me know if you have any luck fixing yours.

brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

Just got to be pretty careful increasing the pressure on the dropouts as they do have a max pressure before you start damaging them.
I'm not going to get a chance to get this looked at short term unfortunately as I'm in exam mode, however there's a few shops more renown for their mechanical prowess that I can take it to once exams are done. I was told by the shop that the local focus rep's bike was doing the same thing, which I found quite worrying really as they should have a problem free bike if anyone does!

*the bike I test rode had NO SIGN of any pad rub at all, even when i deliberately tried to create brake pad rub throwing the bike sideways *awkwardly* whilst sprinting up a hill in the big ring, nor have I read any review of a Focus Izalco Max with brake rub issues before.

edit:
Stopped dealing with that bicycle shop where I bought it as they told me in no uncertain terms the issue was persisting and they's tried and failed ti fix it and go live with a non-working bike, so I'm now dealing direct with local distributor and they're much more pleasant to deal with. They're going to contact Focus (Germany) to figure out the issue properly and sounds like work with another Focus LBS to deliver (actual) service.

brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

Izalcomaxdisc wrote:
Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:55 pm
Let me know how you go with the brake rub. I’m a relatively new owner of an izalco max disc too, and I’m also experiencing some brake rub during out of the saddle efforts.

Currently I’m trying to resolve it by increasing the rat axle pressure, but I think it might just come down to the design of the forks not being able to cope with it. Little disappointing since I love the rest of the bike.

Let me know if you have any luck fixing yours.
Just got the bike back from a different shop and they managed to fix (on first-ride impressions at least) the brake rub within a couple of hours of first seeing the bike. They also discovered the rear brake hadn't been bled correctly, which took them a bit longer (was already re-bled ~2 months ago at last shop), the brake actually feels good now!
Depending on how much trust you have in your shop and how long it's been going on for, I'd suggest asking for a second set of eyes/hands to check it out.
Have to say even though the first shop was pretty horrible to deal with and proved incompetent, Focus themselves have been more than willing to help out, as has the local distributor.

Izalcomaxdisc
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:41 am

by Izalcomaxdisc

Thanks for the update. Good to hear that your issues may have just been solved by using a different shop.

I’ve got a service booked with the shop I purchased it from in 2 weeks. I’ve been riding a fair few kms over the last month and it continues to be fairly intermittent annoyance. I normally do all of my own servicing but this is my first hydraulic disc brake so a bit tentative about playing with them myself without some practice...

tomee
Posts: 150
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2014 8:52 am

by tomee

I'm surprised how heavy this bike is since the frame is one of the lightest out there.

These are going for just under$5k Australian at the moment with di2 which makes it pretty good value wise

brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

quick update:

Chain waxing:
for anyone going the wax route, get the most refined (least oil content) wax you can find, follow ZeroFrictionCycling's guide to clean your chain and apply the wax and you'll be laughing. I got highly refined parrafin wax from my brothers work, but otherwise just use molten speed wax. Chain stays clean enough that you could probably eat your lunch off of the chain, not that I'd really recommend that, easily getting 300 kms with no maintenance besides a quick 15sec wipe to get off any surface dirt after longer rides. Stay away from forums / youtube (looking at you OzCycle) as the information there is mostly just plain wrong, e.g. remove the chain while the wax is hot, do not let it cool in the wax as per OxCycles recommendation.

Bike:
Front disc rubbing on the pad was 99% sorted by the new shop working on the bike, seems like bad facing by focus was PARTLY the cause of the problem as the shop sanded down the facing on the fork, but the tool to correct it properly is super expensive and every time there's a new standard, you need a new tool...
Currently the brake will only rub just after braking for about 2 seconds as the pads retract, or when really throwing the bike around more than usual, however an oscillation/shudder/vibration has crept in to take it's place.
We suspect that it may be the centerlock locking ring working loose, so I'm going to be checking it over the next few weeks/rides as I prefer bars over tarmac for snacks.
Other thoughts were that the 8000 series rotor might not be stiff enough for some reason, we tried a quick swap with another wheel with a solid steel rotor (non-ice-tech-sandwich) and that seemed to solve the issue. Going to look into this more when the pads need replacing next, as it occurs more under harder braking loads. FYI the headset was checked and is perfectly fine.

Riding it:
now ridden it 1800kms, which given how often it's been in a shop vs on the road is half-decent going, also I'm finishing up my masters of Engineering this semester, so don't have too much free time to ride, or, well, do anything non-uni related really. After I finish this post I'm having dinner and then going to do some uni work before bed, YAY!
Rides pretty well, loving running these tubeless tyres on the wide rims at relatively low pressure, it's super fast and super comfy at the same time (and yes, I do love cake). Sealant has fixed one flat for me, only noticed when I had to stop and help my brother repair a flat and noticed the sealant on the tyre (it wasn't bird shit)
I've gotten used to the geometry and position, becoming much more trusting of the bike around corners and ironically I'm pushing my other (commuter) bike harder too in the corners as a result!

remember to:
a) add Di2 weight penalty
b) add Ultegra weight penalty
c) add heavy finishing kit + k-edge + pedal weight
d) add disc weight penalty

upgrades near term:
may opt for still narrower handlebars (40cm?)
bike fit (post final semester of uni)
maybe another carbon cage for that huuuuggggeee 20g saving, but now we have to pay gst on imports *sigh*

Squashednuts
Posts: 356
Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:12 am
Location: Christchurch New Zealand

by Squashednuts

Here's a Park Tool vid on how to clean the calipers....may help with piston retraction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQXFFgRButo

brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

Squashednuts wrote:
Fri Aug 17, 2018 10:13 am
Here's a Park Tool vid on how to clean the calipers....may help with piston retraction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQXFFgRButo
ohhhhhh, I had no idea about that, thanks! Honestly I've just been washing the brake dust off with water and pushing them back in (dry) when replacing pads, not that I've even got to that stage with this bike yet :noidea:

brackc
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:07 am

by brackc

Got some nice new bike porn photos for you!
I've cleaned the front brake pistons according to the park tools information, it's currently hailing so I'm yet to try it.

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