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I took it for a quick spin, but won't have much real feedback til I get my replacement front LW next week. The Nemesis are super cush so I won't make any comments about that til I get a carbon set on it. Di2 felt much more intuitive this time around after having been on 9100 for awhile, but the hoods are super slim, I much prefer the shifter shape of the 9100 shifters.
Here it is with Nemesis since these are my only functioning wheels at the moment (pardon the big big):
Https://www.bespokecycling.com/blog/com ... e-wheelset
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
I got a new stem in today which was supposed to match the TT angle but doesn't quite seem like it's a match. Rather confused since it's a 5.4* Slope, 73 hta and - 12 stem... Should be spot on. Any who, this puts my drop closer to the Litespeed around 10cm. Gained almost 30g...going the wrong way...
I also got my replacement front Lightweight in today. Glued it up this morning and went on a ginger ride in the afternoon. I definitely miss these.
I'd like to get my front repaired but ran into an issue where USPS will not ship a bike box to Slovenia. Seems the dimensions are fine for everywhere else in the EU but max to Slovenia is like 23". FedEx wants $350 each way...
There's a thread on here that suggests the issue is a long running one with di2 and I guess the fix is a drop of silicone glue.
Creaking has me stumped. It clicks every crank revolution but only if I put my weight far back or sit near the back of the saddle while climbing. I'm 80% sure it happens without any weight on the saddle as long as I shift my weight far enough back. If I pedal softly I can't really get it to create and I can get a faint creak out of the saddle up a steep climb sometimes. I don't think it makes sense to be the BB, right? I loctited that and it's one of those thread together pf30 thm bottom brackets.
I forgot I was supposed to check the chainrings too before I try to undo the BB and risk damaging the BB area.
It's possible the extra weight in the rear triangle is causing the seat stays to put enough pressure to cause the click in the seat tube crack. That's the only thing that makes sense.
Assume you've cleaned/tightened/ greased the rear skewer?
Regarding the Di2 shifters, I forgot to add that if I press my fingers outward on the shift buttons (from the inside) while riding over bumpy stuff, it's quiet as a peep. I supposed it could still be brake cable related so I'll check that too.
Bike looks pretty good, especially with the LWs
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: )
I'm actually kind of hoping it's that but am concerned it's something else. I was hoping that putting my finger over the crack would dull the noise but that I'm having trouble pedaling and getting the noise to happen while having my finger on it.
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