CAAD12 Black Inc. Di2 build
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
First ever build post on WW! I found a brand new frameset on Craigslist for ~ $500 USD and decided to build a crit bike to start racing for next season. The seller broke the frame of his touring bike and Cannondale could only offer him a Black inc! He couldn't be bothered by the frame and sold it the next day.
The part list is not 100% final (seatpost and saddle mostly) and I have yet to receive some parts. I had a decent deal on the R8050 Ultegra Di2 groupset and I will be using a bar end junction box to clean-up the cockpit. Crankset will be Rotor 3D+ matched with a power2max NGeco PM and Praxis chainrings. I'm assembling everything myself and it's a learning experience. I want to keep the build under 6.8kg but it's going to be hard...it's not a light frame and I was planning to purchase 40-55mm clinchers to replace my 38mm...
I'll update the topic once I receive the remaining Di2 parts I need to start the build.
partial list
Frame is 1,180g size 54 including seatpost clamp and hanger
Fork is 287g uncut
Most of parts
Crank with original spider is 502g which I found quite heavy, but it was much cheaper than going with SiSL2
Found a brand new 3T Aeronova LTD with matching steam (from a take-off) for $200 on Craigslist
I'll post more details about the Di2 routing next week, but I connected the 2 shifters together, 1 cable from junction box to shifter and 1 long cable from shifter to BB
The frame is Di2 ready which means you still have holes for gear cables. I'm trying to find a solution but didn't find one so far...any suggestion?
The part list is not 100% final (seatpost and saddle mostly) and I have yet to receive some parts. I had a decent deal on the R8050 Ultegra Di2 groupset and I will be using a bar end junction box to clean-up the cockpit. Crankset will be Rotor 3D+ matched with a power2max NGeco PM and Praxis chainrings. I'm assembling everything myself and it's a learning experience. I want to keep the build under 6.8kg but it's going to be hard...it's not a light frame and I was planning to purchase 40-55mm clinchers to replace my 38mm...
I'll update the topic once I receive the remaining Di2 parts I need to start the build.
partial list
Frame is 1,180g size 54 including seatpost clamp and hanger
Fork is 287g uncut
Most of parts
Crank with original spider is 502g which I found quite heavy, but it was much cheaper than going with SiSL2
Found a brand new 3T Aeronova LTD with matching steam (from a take-off) for $200 on Craigslist
I'll post more details about the Di2 routing next week, but I connected the 2 shifters together, 1 cable from junction box to shifter and 1 long cable from shifter to BB
The frame is Di2 ready which means you still have holes for gear cables. I'm trying to find a solution but didn't find one so far...any suggestion?
Last edited by djel on Mon Mar 05, 2018 5:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Going to enjoy watching this develop!
Cannondale Systemsix Ultegra 2020
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=160844
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=160844
you can get a grommet set (part #K32048 / Shift And Brake Grommets)
https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/canno ... 18-p333238
Cannondale CAAD12 Disc
Cinelli Experience
Specialized Langster s/s hack
Cinelli Experience
Specialized Langster s/s hack
I ordered the Hylix seatpost but it will take a while before I receive it. It's unfortunate as I want to do a bike fit asap to dial in my position and cut the steerer. I might try to find a generic 25.4mm seatpost locally just to get the position dialed in. I'm planning to get a Specialized saddle but I had my sitbones measured and I need something wide (155-160mm). I want to try a few models but I will start with the new Power Arc model even though it's somewhat heavy at ~200g.
Ah! I like the look but I agree it's heavy Unfortunately, this build is full of compromises as I didn't want to break the bank on this frame.
Life saver!! Do you know if there's a cap to cover the hole under the bottom bracket? There's one (overpriced) option on shapeways but I don't think there's an OE option.riggsy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 2:09 pmyou can get a grommet set (part #K32048 / Shift And Brake Grommets)
https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/canno ... 18-p333238
I'm confused...
I purchased a 5mm SuperSix dust cover KP253 but it doesn't sit perfectly flush as opposed to the part that the frame shipped with.
jinnie799 uses the same part on it's CAAD12 Black inc (viewtopic.php?t=147461)
What's different??
I purchased a 5mm SuperSix dust cover KP253 but it doesn't sit perfectly flush as opposed to the part that the frame shipped with.
jinnie799 uses the same part on it's CAAD12 Black inc (viewtopic.php?t=147461)
What's different??
Subscribed - Looking forward to seeing the final weight. I'm doing my own CAAD12 Black Inc. build also.
2017 CAAD12 Black Inc (budget-ish build in planning stage https://goo.gl/Mh4PZg)
Not much progress this week as I'm still waiting for a longer 1400mm di2 cable. I've installed the bar end junction box and set-up the levers. Crankset is assembled and it's heavy...750g. I might change the rings for something lighter eventually but it'll have to do for now.
The tires and the tubes will be replaced later this summer. I'll go for Corsa G+ but they're a bit on the heavy side though. I'll read a bit about these tubes, thanks!
slow progress as I had difficulties sourcing the little parts like the grommets...
It's 90% completed as it is...just waiting to install the chain, adjust the gears and set the position. After I get a fit I will cut the steerer to its final length.
I decided to inverse the brake cables purely for esthetic reasons; I prefer when the cable crosses in front of the head tube. I find it cleaner and there’s no rub at all. I will set the heat shrink once I’m sure I won’t move the cables again.
(front brakes not adjusted yet)
(temporary saddle)
It's 90% completed as it is...just waiting to install the chain, adjust the gears and set the position. After I get a fit I will cut the steerer to its final length.
I decided to inverse the brake cables purely for esthetic reasons; I prefer when the cable crosses in front of the head tube. I find it cleaner and there’s no rub at all. I will set the heat shrink once I’m sure I won’t move the cables again.
(front brakes not adjusted yet)
(temporary saddle)
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- Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:01 am
Hi,
i use the Bor Chainrings with my p2m NGeco.
http://bor-germany.de/de/product/100-2x ... 8-50-52-53
Not expansive, good shifting Performance, and for my Power (300W FTP, no Sprinter) stiff, good Classic looking
Sorry, bad pic
i use the Bor Chainrings with my p2m NGeco.
http://bor-germany.de/de/product/100-2x ... 8-50-52-53
Not expansive, good shifting Performance, and for my Power (300W FTP, no Sprinter) stiff, good Classic looking
Sorry, bad pic
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com