Cannondale Supersix 2008, goal: <7kg

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Peeza21
Posts: 166
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:00 pm

by Peeza21

Interested to know how this build is progressing.
Cannondale Supersix Evo HiMod 2012 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=148290

Cannondale Caad12 2017 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=143217&p=1389852#p1389852

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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

Slowly, in short :D . I just scored some rotor 3d+ cranks on fleabay for a pretty good price. I was going to piece together some hollowgrams, but these have a similar look (which is very important to me) and are only a bit heavier for quite a bit less money (probably).
I don't know when I'll be finished with this build, but hopefully in time for summer riding. Updates to follow soon when the cranks arrive.
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

by Weenie


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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

My new (to me) cranks just arrived in the post courtesy of Paul Milnes Cycles on fleabay (<-- if you're sensing a theme here, you're senses are working). They're Rotor 3D+, presumably with a titanium spindle as they've come in about 30g under what I was expecting! :D
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At 471 grams for the bare cranks, these are plenty light enough to keep me going for a good while yet.
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The chainring bolts are 9.5g for 5, so one should be about 1.9. Seems pretty good but if there are any light (and cheap!) ones anyone can recommend, I'm all ears.
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Paired with stronglight CT2 chainrings (approximately 125g) this crankset should come in at ~605g, lighter (and a lot cheaper) than Dura Ace.
As with my ciamillos, I really like the industrial yet elegant look of these cranks, they should fit in very nicely.
These were the last big expensive thing I needed for this bike, so things may (or may not) begin to speed up. Exciting times!

P.S. I got a new scale for my birthday (what else does a WW's sister get for him? :lol: ) which are accurate to half a gram, an OCD pleasing upgrade.
Last edited by themidge on Tue May 15, 2018 12:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

User avatar
themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

I haven't been able to get on here for a bit, so hello if you can see this! My front derailleur for this bike arrived the other day: Shimano dura ace 7900 braze-on
Image
At 66 grams without any tuning it's light enough to keep me going for a while or until I get more adventurous in my endeavours to lighten this bike. The original supersix frame actually needs a clamp-on FD, but I'm going to use one of those neat carbon converters as it's lighter and (IMO) more elegant.
This was the last used thing I had to buy for this bike (unless I've forgotten something), so I've no excuse other than money for this taking much longer, though it will probably be a while anyway :) .
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

campagowlo
Posts: 154
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 6:05 pm

by campagowlo

Hi Midge - what's the outer diameter of the fd clamp you need? I've got a smud one you could have but it might be too small.

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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

I'm not exactly sure, but from a quick measurement it's about 34mm (the frame takes a 31.6mm seatpost). If I can find the manual somewhere online it'll probably tell me. I'm not sure where you are in the world but if you're in the UK or the EU (i'd rather not mess around with overseas shipping if I don't have to) then do please drop me a PM.
Last edited by themidge on Mon May 21, 2018 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

campagowlo
Posts: 154
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 6:05 pm

by campagowlo

I'm UK based. My clamp is 31.8mm od unfortunately. I can recommend smud clamps. I've had 2. Piotr takes a while to deliver but they are light and well made.

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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

So it turns out the screaming deal I thought I could get on Stronglight CT2 chainrings is no more and now I'd have to spend £90 which feels a bit dear just now. I was initially planning to change to a 36t inner ring, but seeing as I already have a set of 50/34's on my current bike I thought I might as well use them until they wear out and it'll cost me nothing right now.
Turn's out they aren't too heavy either :D :
(outer, 50t, 114.5g)
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(inner, 34t, 35g)
Image

149.5g isn't too bad for a pair of chainrings that came stock on a £500 bike :thumbup: .
This money saving exercise has cost me about 25g in crankset weight, but that can be remedied when the time comes for new rings.
Image
Image
I'm not sure about the 'cloverleaf' style look compared to the more retro and spindly Stronglights, but I'll live with it for the time being. Please forgive the chainring rotation, I need to file down the big silver pin to make them fit.
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

Nixster
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:30 pm

by Nixster

The big silver pin is to prevent the chain dropping between cranks and rings, are you sure it doesn't fit as is? I have Praxis rings on my Rotor cranks on my Supersix and they went straight on, as did the FSA rings before those so not sure why you'd struggle? :noidea:
Weight saving suggestion, one of the cheapest there is, replace your inner tubes with either latex for a 50-60g saving or Conti supersonic for a 100g saving. Latex will also be faster!
Second suggestion- 10 speed Dura Ace cassettes are pretty cheap on EBay these days, I picked up a 11-23 for £40 which weighs 163g and would save you 135g at less than 30p/g.
I got my Supersix under 6.8kg with nothing exotic on it, good luck with yours!

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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

Wow! A reply on my glacial build! :D
Thanks for the weight saving suggestions, the DA cassette seems to be a very good one, thanks for pointing it out. I'm not sure what to do about innertubes, with light ones you can easily save a lot of weight, but seeing as they are 'consumables' they can feel a bit expensive (especially compared to normal butul ones). Perhaps if I end up with two sets of wheels, one for training and one for racing or best then I'll put lighter ones on the 'race' set (although I don't race... perhaps I will).
I know the function of the big pin, the problem seems to be that it is a tad too long for the cranks (the ones the rings came on were cheap and heavy and had a sort of groove in the back, so perhaps that's why the pin is longer than usual :noidea: ). It shouldn't be to much work at all to take a little off the end with a file or something.

In other news, I'm on holiday right now and forgot to order my seatpost from the far east, so that will take a while. However, I have decided to go for Alligator iLinks (normal 5mm) for cables. They are a little (well, quite a lot actually) more expensive than normal cables, but the weight savings, reusable-ness of the outers, and the fact that you can fine-tune the length easily all makes it worth it I think.
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

Peeza21
Posts: 166
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:00 pm

by Peeza21

themidge wrote:
Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:53 am
Wow! A reply on my glacial build! :D
Thanks for the weight saving suggestions, the DA cassette seems to be a very good one, thanks for pointing it out. I'm not sure what to do about innertubes, with light ones you can easily save a lot of weight, but seeing as they are 'consumables' they can feel a bit expensive (especially compared to normal butul ones). Perhaps if I end up with two sets of wheels, one for training and one for racing or best then I'll put lighter ones on the 'race' set (although I don't race... perhaps I will).
I know the function of the big pin, the problem seems to be that it is a tad too long for the cranks (the ones the rings came on were cheap and heavy and had a sort of groove in the back, so perhaps that's why the pin is longer than usual :noidea: ). It shouldn't be to much work at all to take a little off the end with a file or something.

In other news, I'm on holiday right now and forgot to order my seatpost from the far east, so that will take a while. However, I have decided to go for Alligator iLinks (normal 5mm) for cables. They are a little (well, quite a lot actually) more expensive than normal cables, but the weight savings, reusable-ness of the outers, and the fact that you can fine-tune the length easily all makes it worth it I think.
If you haven’t already ordered them, I have a brand new unused set of gear ilinks from my build. Never needed them as I went to etap. They are black and come as new from the factory with all cables and bits and bobs
Cannondale Supersix Evo HiMod 2012 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=148290

Cannondale Caad12 2017 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=143217&p=1389852#p1389852

campagowlo
Posts: 154
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 6:05 pm

by campagowlo

I have used and reused ilinks for 7 years. I just change the inner Teflon cable once a year. superb vfm.

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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

Peeza21 wrote:
Tue Apr 10, 2018 12:35 pm

If you haven’t already ordered them, I have a brand new unused set of gear ilinks from my build. Never needed them as I went to etap. They are black and come as new from the factory with all cables and bits and bobs
Sounds good, as I mentioned above I'm on holiday at the mo but I'll PM you when I get back :D . Mind you, are they the minis? They seem to be a bit of a hassle and it would seem sensible to have the ability to chop and change spares etc. between all the cables rather than isolating each type.

@campagowlo: That's good to hear, I decided on them based on your recommending linked housing for Ciamillo brakes as Jagwire didn't seem as versatile what with the links sliding onto a tube that's cut to length, which somewhat defeats the whole 'undo button' that links have!)
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

Nixster
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:30 pm

by Nixster

Tubes are only consumables if you don't patch them :lol:
The lightweight ones don't go any more often than the heavy ones, once they're in :D
Enjoy your hols!

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themidge
Posts: 632
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 4:19 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

by themidge

^ Good point, can you patch latex tubes? I've heard they're more puncture resistant anyway :noidea: .
Whilst I'm at it, there have been a few changes to the spreadsheet since I last posted it:
Image
Those shimano stainless cables will be brake ones, all part of my cost cutting plan :twisted: . It's cheaper to get the gear set (180cm of links) and a spare run of outers from fleabay (30cm of links), which should give me just enough length to cable the bike, so I need brake inner cables, and you can't go wrong with shimano's standard for the price!
The price of this build pales into insignificance compared to some on this site, but I'm doing what I can with what I've got.
Last edited by themidge on Tue May 15, 2018 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
:hello:
Cannondale Supersix 2008 (weight: 7.3kg)
B'twin Triban 540 (in bits)
Vitus "Benotto" 979 (weight: :? )

by Weenie


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