Perhaps crossed cables look aesthetically less pleasing, which is why they route them directly on display bikes. Also, with entry ports being where they are, the result can be, mmm, interesting. Even for professionals:
Team Novo Nordisk's 2019 Colnago C64, link to youtube
In case you think there's something strange going on with the cables throughout the video, they used more than one bike. I think one is crossed and the other is straight cables. Nice to see them running mechanical gears, though.
edited: link.
Colnago C64 - Inside and Out
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Looks to me like the same bike just with different wheels at the beginning. But even if the bikes are different, the cable routing looks to be the same either way. That is, the cables are crossed internally in the downtube, allowing the cable housings from the shifters to follow a nice simple arc around the head tube and into the cable ports. This is how I route all my bikes, and was common in the "olden" days for very small bikes there the bends from the bars to the downtube were very tight. But with fat tubes that went out of favor because you couldn't get the cables to cross underneath the downtube. But now, with fat tubes AND being able to cross the cables internally in the downttube, this is by far my preferred mechanical cable routing method. Not only does it keep the cables from rubbing on your head tube, but it's simply much better from a performance standpoint in that there is much less friction involved. The downside is that routing this way perfectly means you should have your setup predetermined because it will leave very little excess to play with adjustments to stem or stack height, versus the "traditional" (is there a traditional way anymore?) way where you can have a fair bit of slacke in the cables.
Here's an example of how Colnago was routing their C64's during the media launch... hideous if you ask me... it's a rats nest of up front, incorporates an awful unavoidalbe "S" bend which only adds to the friction, and rubs hard on the head tube... paint will be rubbed through in short order using this method...
Now, here's the internally crossed method... notice the smooth arc from the handlebars around to the opposite side of the downtube, where internally the cable just follow the same line to the appropratie outlet at the bottom bracket... there is not a single place on this bike where a cable housing touches the frame other than at the stops....
I think it's arguable which way looks better... on old bikes I used to like crossing the cables up front because you could kind of artfully "frame" the headtube logo, like on my C50... and note that the cable stops keep the cables far enough from the headtube that they don't rub. Manufacturers these days seem not to even think or care about those details anymore. The cable routing is probably my biggest issue with the C64.
But I also had no choice in the above since the C50 now had fat enough tubes with the placement of the cable stops on the side making a cable cross underneath the downtube impossible...
I do like how they did the cable stops above however... I detest the cable stops being attached to the headtube as it tightens up the bends and often interferes with the front brake cable when turning. Anyway, there's alwasy more than one way to skin the cat as they say, and each frame may have its own nuances that might make one method more favorable than an another. At that point, the builder should be able to use his judgement as to which is best.
Earlier in this thread, I took a stem with some housing just to kind of mock up the routing I would choose to see how it worked with the new cable port centered in the downtube. While not as nice as if there were a separate cable port on each side of the downtube, I still felt it would work just fine... here's the pic from earlier in the thread...
This week I was called over to a shop where the owner was recabling a Campy bike for a customer. He wanted to borrow my BB tool for installing the BB cups. When i got there he had already jammed them in using the big washer type press on the outside of the cups. I checked it and it seemed ok, but not what I would have done. More concerning was his cabling, which he had already done. I set up the front derailleur properly for him, but it was a small frame and he had routed the cables up front the traditional way, S-bend cross up front externally. Becasue the frame was small, the bends were extremely tight, and to compound the issue they were on the short side. Even though it was a new set of Campy cables, the shifting felt like the cables were being dragged through some too tight housings that had been soaking in maple syrup all winter. It felt horrible and I said they need to be done over with a new set of cables as I hate the thought of handing a bike off to a customer in that condition. Especially when it's Campagnolo.
Here's an example of how Colnago was routing their C64's during the media launch... hideous if you ask me... it's a rats nest of up front, incorporates an awful unavoidalbe "S" bend which only adds to the friction, and rubs hard on the head tube... paint will be rubbed through in short order using this method...
Now, here's the internally crossed method... notice the smooth arc from the handlebars around to the opposite side of the downtube, where internally the cable just follow the same line to the appropratie outlet at the bottom bracket... there is not a single place on this bike where a cable housing touches the frame other than at the stops....
I think it's arguable which way looks better... on old bikes I used to like crossing the cables up front because you could kind of artfully "frame" the headtube logo, like on my C50... and note that the cable stops keep the cables far enough from the headtube that they don't rub. Manufacturers these days seem not to even think or care about those details anymore. The cable routing is probably my biggest issue with the C64.
But I also had no choice in the above since the C50 now had fat enough tubes with the placement of the cable stops on the side making a cable cross underneath the downtube impossible...
I do like how they did the cable stops above however... I detest the cable stops being attached to the headtube as it tightens up the bends and often interferes with the front brake cable when turning. Anyway, there's alwasy more than one way to skin the cat as they say, and each frame may have its own nuances that might make one method more favorable than an another. At that point, the builder should be able to use his judgement as to which is best.
Earlier in this thread, I took a stem with some housing just to kind of mock up the routing I would choose to see how it worked with the new cable port centered in the downtube. While not as nice as if there were a separate cable port on each side of the downtube, I still felt it would work just fine... here's the pic from earlier in the thread...
This week I was called over to a shop where the owner was recabling a Campy bike for a customer. He wanted to borrow my BB tool for installing the BB cups. When i got there he had already jammed them in using the big washer type press on the outside of the cups. I checked it and it seemed ok, but not what I would have done. More concerning was his cabling, which he had already done. I set up the front derailleur properly for him, but it was a small frame and he had routed the cables up front the traditional way, S-bend cross up front externally. Becasue the frame was small, the bends were extremely tight, and to compound the issue they were on the short side. Even though it was a new set of Campy cables, the shifting felt like the cables were being dragged through some too tight housings that had been soaking in maple syrup all winter. It felt horrible and I said they need to be done over with a new set of cables as I hate the thought of handing a bike off to a customer in that condition. Especially when it's Campagnolo.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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Hi all,
I am fortunate and lucky enough to own and ride a C64 (PJWH) fitted with 12 speed SR EPS.
I still do fight a little annoyence - there is a connection of 2 pieces of EPS cabling in the down tube that is rattling when riding a rough surface.
PLEASE - any tips or hints how to get rid of this rattling ? Campagnolo probably does not have this dialed as perfectly as Shimano does...
I know that masters like @Calnago are not favouring the electronic shifting but still - any possible help ?
Regards
xkoum
I am fortunate and lucky enough to own and ride a C64 (PJWH) fitted with 12 speed SR EPS.
I still do fight a little annoyence - there is a connection of 2 pieces of EPS cabling in the down tube that is rattling when riding a rough surface.
PLEASE - any tips or hints how to get rid of this rattling ? Campagnolo probably does not have this dialed as perfectly as Shimano does...
I know that masters like @Calnago are not favouring the electronic shifting but still - any possible help ?
Regards
xkoum
Your friend here is bubble wrap. Use a little blue painters tape (easy to peel off, tear, and remove later as needed) to secure it around the offensive part that’s rattling (probably one of the junctions I suspect), then stuff if it all back in. Recabled an electronic Madone and got rid of the rattling in exactly this manner. Same thing in a Time Skylon. Zip ties with the tails not cut off can work also, as they provide kind of a “spring” effect keeping the hard connectors away from the edges of the frame. But yeah, those rattles are SO annoying. I couldn’t stand it. If the rattling is from cable housing hitting the inside of internally routed aero bars however, that can be a more difficult task as access can be impossible or difficult at best. All depends but I know I couldn’t live with cables rattling inside any tubes.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
So following on from my post a few weeks ago, have finally had time to build my C64 up after being delayed by holidays and catching up with work.
Here's a teaser pic' until I get chance to get something better.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... ofYv_VKCSq
The build went smoothly after following Calnago's and others guidance and I'm very pleased with the overall quality of the frame and paint work.
More to follow.
steeley wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2019 10:11 amSeems to work for me, but I'm not very au fait with adding pic's I'm afraid. Try this one ?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9DNVSvAnBpgrvXu28
- Attachments
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Very unique choice of pedals (8Ti?).
and with Sidi carbon soles plenty stable enough for me with no hotspots 
For anyone who's interested, went out literally for a couple of miles shakdown test to make sure nothing fell off it and my first impressions are very positive.steeley wrote: ↑Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:46 pmSo following on from my post a few weeks ago, have finally had time to build my C64 up after being delayed by holidays and catching up with work.
Here's a teaser pic' until I get chance to get something better.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... ofYv_VKCSq
The build went smoothly after following Calnago's and others guidance and I'm very pleased with the overall quality of the frame and paint work.
More to follow.
Haven't ridden a pure road bike for a number of years but this thing feels amazing, nimble and lithe but stable and very comfortable. I have 260mm of seat post exposed and can really feel the compliance, just have to trust the technology that it's going to last in the long term. Have left plenty of wiggle room on the steerer as I was a little worried it might feel a bit low on the front but I did the numbers and it's is currently set up with my usual 95 to 100mm saddle to bar drop and felt like I might drop the front a little further once I'm settled into it !
My drop bar bikes of reference are my Colnago Prestige CX wihich I've been riding on and off-road for the last three years and my Kona Rove Ti Gravel bike which I've had since Lynskey built them up originally around 5/6 years ago. Both of these are set up with Hydraulic discs and SRAM Red Etap so I'm going totally opposite to trend with a mechanical and rim brake C64 but man it feels sooooooo sexy.......Maiden proper ride is this evening so wish me luck
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