Long time coming: Colnago C-60 comes to life!

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Geoff
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by Geoff

Ok, that's nice. Great choice.

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Willier
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by Willier

Which bottles do you use with those cages? Mine only work with tacx bottles
"Smart may have the answers, but stupid have all the interesting questions."

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dgasmd
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by dgasmd

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“Pre-final weight” update. Cut the rest of the steering tube, removed the Garmin mount as it won’t be used on it, and bars double wrapped with Dead tape. 14.0 lb.

Said “pre-final” because I will be trying the Berk padded saddle in a few days and that will certainly get it below 14 lb, which was the initial goal. One of them at least!!

I may swap the mechanical SR grouppo for EPS, but the weight gain will not be welcomed. Both of my other bikes are right at 14 lb and I was hoping to get this one below 14 with EPS. Clearly won’t happen? Maybe I need to get a C-64 for that LOL......
Last edited by dgasmd on Sat Feb 10, 2018 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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dgasmd
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by dgasmd

And yes, tape job was good but not perfect

m4k1
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by m4k1

Off topic really, but could you pm me about the differences between the 595 and the rxr und terms of ride? I am building up a 595 at the moment, but would also consider an rxr if the right size came along...

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Calnago
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by Calnago

dgasmd wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 6:11 pm
And yes, tape job was good but not perfectImageImageImage
You've still got a ways to go on the tape job :beerchug:

In my mind I concurred with RichW's comments earlier about lever/handlebar position, but I think you still stopped a bit short of ideal. If it was mine, which I know it's not, I'd rotate the bars even a bit further and move the levers up a bit still. And get some different waterbottle cages.

As for function... did you get the shifting dialed in? I'm alwasy suspect when I see a post 2015 campy bike without the inline cable adjuster installed. They're rarely dialed in, even though the owner sometimes "thinks" it is. But if you nailed it, good for you, because I think the inline adjuster really takes away from the aesthetics, and especially on a small frame, can really kind of interfere with the smooth shallow bend that the cable has to make from bars to downtube port.

But that weight! Don't see to many Colnagos down in that weight territory, and that's without any real compormises either, apart from the waterbottle cages and the Lightweight skewers (which are always a compromise in my opinion, but they sure are light). I also prefer just nice Campy cables as well... those link type affairs never really did it for me, they just look all kinky. But again, I guess they're lighter? And as long as they fit squarely in the shifters and brake stops then performance shouldn't suffer.

Those Time Expressos are incredibly light pedals. I was just working with some of those. They feel kind of plastic to me but I guess the main thing is you have to be so careful when working on the bike because you can easily cut yourself on the ends of them while adjusting things in the stand rotating the cranks. So sharp. You'd think they'd just buff out that knife type edge at the front.

Very nice! Now order that C64.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

glepore
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by glepore

The Time pedals are plastic, but a really secure light pedal. I take a file to all of those edges though.

Personally, I like the cages. Can't see it in the photos, but they have pseudo "ties" where the strands cross just like the wheels, and it carries over nicely.

I prefer bars parallel to ground as well, but to each his own.

That deda tape is a bear to work with.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Cannondale SS Evo Di2 7970 (5.79); Willier Cento Uno Air Di2 9070 (7.0); C40 Mk2 DA 7800 ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record

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Calnago
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by Calnago

glepore wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 10:05 pm
I prefer bars parallel to ground as well, but to each his own.

That deda tape is a bear to work with.
There is no "parallel" to the ground with the variable radius bars like he's got. I guess the closest line you can achieve is to imagine the direction of a gunshot fired out the bar ends and which line the bullet would take. But I'm referring more to how the levers interface with the bars. None of my bars are parallel to the ground either, even though with the Deda SHALLOWS, there's a good long straight section of drop that would be easy to do so. I prefer having that straight edge run along the same angle as my stems, be that the -8 or -10 options that I currently use. I think that looks best and also feels best to me as I drop my hands onto the drops. Perfeclty parallel to the ground means a little forward kink in the wrist, which isn't quite as natural for me. But mine are "classic" shaped bars, and have a ramp which I like, and Campy levers fit them perfectly. These bars aren't that shape, but with those minor adjustments, just a stitch more rotation down in the bars, with the levers moved up a stitch, it would be perfect. He's gotta redo that tape job anyway, so he can experiment and see which he likes better. :beerchug:
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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dgasmd
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by dgasmd

Calnago wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 9:14 pm
In my mind I concurred with RichW's comments earlier about lever/handlebar position, but I think you still stopped a bit short of ideal. If it was mine, which I know it's not, I'd rotate the bars even a bit further and move the levers up a bit still. And get some different waterbottle cages.

As for function... did you get the shifting dialed in? I'm alwasy suspect when I see a post 2015 campy bike without the inline cable adjuster installed. They're rarely dialed in, even though the owner sometimes "thinks" it is. But if you nailed it, good for you, because I think the inline adjuster really takes away from the aesthetics, and especially on a small frame, can really kind of interfere with the smooth shallow bend that the cable has to make from bars to downtube port.

But that weight! Don't see to many Colnagos down in that weight territory, and that's without any real compormises either, apart from the waterbottle cages and the Lightweight skewers (which are always a compromise in my opinion, but they sure are light). I also prefer just nice Campy cables as well... those link type affairs never really did it for me, they just look all kinky. But again, I guess they're lighter? And as long as they fit squarely in the shifters and brake stops then performance shouldn't suffer.


Those Time Expressos are incredibly light pedals. I was just working with some of those. They feel kind of plastic to me but I guess the main thing is you have to be so careful when working on the bike because you can easily cut yourself on the ends of them while adjusting things in the stand rotating the cranks. So sharp. You'd think they'd just buff out that knife type edge at the front.

Very nice! Now order that C64.
You are somewhat correct. I actually have not ridden the bike but once. Life keeps getting in the way, and adjusting things on a stand by "eyeballing it" is a very different thing from real life. Bars and levers do need to move some as pointed out. It is funny that when the tape was not on they looked and felt good to me, but the moment the tape went on I could see it still needed adjusting some more. :roll: :roll: :roll:

As far as the shifting, the front derailleur shifts effortless and incredibly precise. Frankly, I've never had an issue with Campy front derailleurs not working perfectly ever in this or the older SR version I have in my Time bike. The Record one in the LOOK from back in the late 2000's is even more precise dare I say. Frankly, I sincerely love the older Record shifting for the rear. The levers require a bare touch and hardly any travel to shift up or down vs the SR long throws required. It is OK, but certainly prefer the bare touch and shift of the old Record stuff, which is more like the EPS, and another reason I was seriously contemplating going with EPS. Because I love that 10s Record feel so much, I have not swapped them to SR 11sp. The rear derailleur in this bike is still not 100% (to me). It is close, but not there entirely. I have no patience and zero attention span for 2 things cycling related, which I have always farmed out to someone else with more patience to get it right the first time: truing wheels and doing micro adjustments in rear gears. Without much effort, I got it OK in the stand, but we all know the moment you put a load on them it is another story. At least that has been my limited experience. I will adjust the bars and levers, rewrap the thing again, and then I will try a bit more adjusting on the rear gears. I put a new cassette and chain on it, so that should make it a bit easier in a way.

The pedals are nice. I went to the iClic 12 a short time after they came out many years ago. These are my first set of Xpresso 15. They are noticeably lighter by holding them and such than the iClic 12 I have in my other bikes, but they feel no different to ride them. Well, maybe a bit tighter to click in/out, which is good by me. I also got a new pair of shoes and trying to adjust cleats on them is going to take me a bit of time. These are different shoes, so not as easy to translate the position from my previous set. Add to it that I have funky feet. I had ridden pedals with zero float before, and frankly I prefer it. Takes longer to dial in the cleat position, but once you do you are set until you change shoe model again. The float always feel to me as if it is never right because you have so much more free movement or room for error that gets masked.

As far as the cages, I seriously can't see what's so bad about them LOL....I think they look OK, I am not in love with them, and they are certainly better looking LIVE than in pictures. However, I am contemplating a pair of Carbon Works at half the weight. The $150/pair involved is not convincing/encouraging me or moving me much though. :smartass: :smartass:

And as for the C64. Well, let's just say maybe not any time soon. This one only took me 8-9 years since the last new bike LOL.......Now, if Campy came out with wireless this year........... :welcome:
Last edited by dgasmd on Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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dgasmd
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by dgasmd

Willier wrote:
Tue Jan 30, 2018 6:47 pm
Which bottles do you use with those cages? Mine only work with tacx bottles
Sorry I missed this question. I have used and tried 6 different brands/types I had laying around. All fit. That includes a 1 liter bottle as well. Have not tried insulated bottles as I gave up on those a very long time ago and have none laying around.

dbnm
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by dbnm

I'm about to buy those Time Xpresso 15 Pedals. I've only ever used Dura Ace. Should be interesting.

chazmtb
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by chazmtb

Looks like I have an identical twin. Except for the saddle stem and tires.

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themidge
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by themidge

dgasmd wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 11:32 pm
Bars and levers do need to move some as pointed out. It is funny that when the tape was not on they looked and felt good to me, but the moment the tape went on I could see it still needed adjusting some more. :roll: :roll: :roll:
Just a quick tip if you're struggling to set up your bars just right: When setting up my bars I always get the angle of the drops completely right and tightened down first, then worry about shifters. That's because with having classic bend bars I get really annoyed if the angle is wrong. It kind of depends how important the drops are to you (I hope they are given your saddle->bar drop, they certainly are to me) compared to the transition between bar and shifter but it definitely helps when doing the shifters because you don't have to worry about moving the bars, only the shifter.
Getting the shifters in the same place on each side of the bar though... :scared:
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jekyll man
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by jekyll man

Other than the bar tape and cages, thats sweeeeeeeet!
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dgasmd
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by dgasmd

After some serious shaming and peer pressure here, I changed the bottle cages. Still bothered by the fact that after 3 different cages the bottle on the seat tube hits the down tube and never reaches “bottom” on the cage itself. Also, new Berk saddle added. Have to give it a couple of hundred miles to make a final judgement on it!ImageImageImage

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