Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane meet

[JackDaniels]

Yeah, it's low and long. But it was called the koppenberg with h1 geo.

https://archive.trekbikes.com/au/en/201 ... et/details

[Calnago]

My mistake then. For some reason I thought you said it was an older version, I guess you did, but I just assumed it had to be the Classics version since that was the only “older” version. But yeah, that’s the 2015 paint job. So same bike, just different paint. Not “long” though, with the H1 geo, at least as far as the frame goes. But you’ve certainly got it set up as long and low. That’s one huge drop you’re sportin’ there, what is that... like 14cm or so? On a 56 frame? And long stem and long reach bars. Holy smokes. Assume you’re liking it as much as I am?

[Geoff]

@Calnago, thanks a lot. I was perfectly happy with Alberto's Emonda...

[Calnago]

@Geoff: just how many ex pro bikes do you have in your garage, and who’s running around snatching them up for you? I just read that you also have Dan Martins creaking Cervelo. Send it to me and I’ll fix it once and for all.
Oh, and I’m sure your Emonda is just fine. They didn’t even make the Koppenberg in your size (I’m assuming your ideal size is smaller than a 56?). They really touted it as their frame for their “big men”. I’m quite sure I’m bigger than their biggest man. But if I actually wanted to buck up with my own cash for one of the uberlight frames on the market today, it would have to be the SLR. I just feel that I’d trust Trek to have done the testing. But my little ride around with the SLR a few blocks with some intentional twisting and grinding seems to indicate that it’d be a blast to climb with but maybe I’d want to switch to my Koppenberg for the ride down.

[Geoff]

@Calnago, too darn many. I still know lots of guys from the Teams, so getting bikes is never the issue. I have a dedicated bike storage area, so that is ok right now, too.

I am pretty selective of the bikes that I want to add. I only recently got interested in the Trek offerings (largely because of you guys). It was actually this thread that got me interested in the Trek 'Northern Classic' rides. I can't get a Koppenberg, but a Domane is perfect. Fortunately, John and I are the same size...

On the S5, my intent is always to keep the bikes in 'as-raced' condition. That would typically rule out a C-Bear, or something, but in this case, I am kind of at my wits-end. I don't want to glue it. Any great thoughts? (not to hijack your inspiring thread, or anything, but I am out of ideas...)

[Calnago]

A few years ago I finally succumbed to the fact that pressfit BB’s weren’t going away and tooled up and learned how to do it right. Loctite 609 and the associated primer (I can never remember the number but I think it Loctite 7649?). It may be your only hope. It’s a retaining compound. Hopefully the bore in your shell isn’t too bad. Do you think it was “raced” in that condition? I think our own bikes can often be better than those “as raced” bikes. Lots of threads on BB and retaining compounds.

[Geoff]

Yeah, he stopped using it forthat reason. He told me that it was wonky when he sent it, so I can't say it was a big surprise...

[1415chris]

There is no need of using Loctite with primer anymore. It can fix creaking problem, but the same time, can make removal of the bb cups a real nightmare.
Get yourself one of these aluminium threaded together bottom brackets. Having experience with this type of press fit bb (I put in on my S5 last year) I must admit that I'm surprised that people still buy the plastic versions, whenn they have much better solution available.
I went fo Wheels mfg with angular bearing. Although the bb itself is very good I'm not so sure about their choice of bearings (Enduro).
Swapped them for NTN contactless.

[BSUdude]

Two questions--

1) I assume the stack numbers listed in the geo charts available on the web are to top of headtube, and do not account for the top cap/spacer provided?
2) The spacer/top cap provided looks to be 15mm to my eye. Is this correct?

[Calnago]

@BSUdude: Even though they list the Koppenberg as having H1 geometry, there’s some minor discrepancies with the geo chart, at least in the size 60. Wheelbase is spot on at 1001mm for example. So is the effective top tube length. But the headtube length on the Koppenberg is actually only 170mm, not 180mm as per the H1 geo chart. However, the axle to crown length (not published) is 370mm on the Emonda and 380 on the Koppenberg. So where the top of headtubes effectively end up at is the same. However, I think that the stack number is slightly different as well due to the Koppenberg having a BB drop of 75mm, versus 68mm on the Emonda. So, even though they've always just said the Koppenberg is H1 geometry, I would say that an "adjusted measurement" of stack is 7mm greater than the published H1 numbers, for a size 60. And I just confirmed that with an actual measurement. But yes, to answer your question about the measurement in general, the stack heights are measured to the top of the headtube at its center, and do not include the headset cover. So, stach and reach numbers for this bike in this thread... as measured by me are Stack=593mm, Reach=404mm.

The headset cover is 15mm in height, yes.

[sennder]

That bike looks great!

Did you use the plastic bottom bracket sleeve that Trek supplies with their BBs?
I read your comment in another thread that you skipped the sleeve in your Emonda build. Did you have any issues with that down the line?

I'm building a Trek Domane SLR and installing Enduro bearings instead of the Trek ones. The frameset supplier shipped the frameset without the hardware kit (I'm guessing the sleeve comes with the hardware kit). In my eagerness to get the build started, I pressed the bearings without giving the sleeve too much though. I would rather not remove the bearings just for the sleeve if it's not essential.

[Calnago]

At first I just left the sleeve out of my Emonda SL. Then I rode it for the summer before actually setting it up for a winter bike, with full fenders, flaps, etc. As I was doing that I removed the crank just as part of normal maintenance and to check things out. I noticed some large enough pieces of road debris sticking to the lightly greased spindle that I decided to be better safe than sorry, so I put the sleeve back in on reinstallaton. And mounted fenders etc. Funny though, because on the next removal after the winter it was squeaky clean. The fenders and flap just kept anything at all from being thrown through the fairly large BB slot. I suppose I’d leave it in if I were you. Even though it’s a good idea to use a press to install the bearings so they get fully seated and aligned, they are just a slipfit and super easy to pop out.

[Stolichnaya]

I must have been hibernating under a rock because I completely missed this thread.
A great read, and arguably the best Trek I have ever seen.

[markulan]

Hi there,
I am new here and would be very happy if someone have answer for my problem.
I recently bought new 2018 Trek Domane SLR - race shop limited frame, fork and iso speed sistem; but there were not small parts included.
Is here somebody know which cable stoppers would fit in this frame?
I will build mechanical groupset and direct mount rim brakes.
I was asking local dealers, few biggest trek dealers in Europe, but I got no answer on this question.
All other parts I found on web.
I appreciate any tip, where and what to buy or if someone on forum have parts for sell.
Thanks for all answers.

[Robt57]

At first I just left the sleeve out of my Emonda SL. Then I rode it for the summer before actually setting it up for a winter bike, with full fenders, flaps, etc. As I was doing that I removed the crank just as part of normal maintenance and to check things out....

Sorry for the giving life to a zombi thread. Altough your muriad of Domane info is fantastic here-in. In fact brought me to join after many years of lurkage here.

How is the love for the Kopen Burger these days? I am quite late to this party only getting the Domane that is the keeper in 2019.