2018 FUJI SL 1.1 54cm
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- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
Ended up going with Shimano R8050 Di2 will post up weights here soon
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- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
Ok so debating on these EE brakes for my build... I can’t decide if these will go with the scheme open to opinions. The group will be ultegra R8050 and Reynolds Assault carbons.
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Please get these, it looks perfect! It'll definitely help a lot with your weight target.
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- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
Here’s another pic, just unsure about the silver wishing it was black with red accents. Although the chain stay guard is silver to match
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you could get the standard black ee brakes and get the red ee badge.
https://www.canecreek.com/product/brake ... cessories/
https://www.canecreek.com/product/brake ... cessories/
- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
This is definitely a good idea. Plus I would save $130.00 on the pair. Although I have debated on buying the EE’s due to the braking performance of the Current gen Shimanos. Of course weight wise they don’t compare.CrankAddictsRich wrote:you could get the standard black ee brakes and get the red ee badge.
https://www.canecreek.com/product/brake ... cessories/
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- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
Got some pieces from JRC Components to complete the build. Some very nice looking machinery and solid design. Shipping was quick to the US. So far very happy with them.
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I have not tried the 9100 brakes yet, but I've been using 9000 brakes for the past 3 seasons on one bike and ee's 1 season now on another. I don't feel like the ee's give up anything in terms of performance. They're less in weight and lighten your wallet. Its hard to argue against 9000's or 9100's though, as well... all stellar brakes.Drpoomanchu wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:33 amThis is definitely a good idea. Plus I would save $130.00 on the pair. Although I have debated on buying the EE’s due to the braking performance of the Current gen Shimanos. Of course weight wise they don’t compare.CrankAddictsRich wrote:you could get the standard black ee brakes and get the red ee badge.
https://www.canecreek.com/product/brake ... cessories/
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- in the industry
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Glad you're happy with the purchase! Thought the donut on the scales with the calories etc listed was ironicDrpoomanchu wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:39 am
Got some pieces from JRC Components to complete the build. Some very nice looking machinery and solid design. Shipping was quick to the US. So far very happy with them.
- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
I know right..! I was pleasantly surprised to see “0” calories. That’s what you call a LIGHT Donutjrccomponents wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 11:11 pmGlad you're happy with the purchase! Thought the donut on the scales with the calories etc listed was ironicDrpoomanchu wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:39 am
Got some pieces from JRC Components to complete the build. Some very nice looking machinery and solid design. Shipping was quick to the US. So far very happy with them.
- Drpoomanchu
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:59 am
I wanted to pick your brains on something I have not run into. I went to install my Wheels Mfg. PF30 BB tonight and after prepping and inserting the drive side per instructions there was relatively no resistance and the BB bottomed out by hand. It’s almost like the cup is out of tolerance. I tried the non-drive side of the bottom bracket in the drive cup with the same results so it shouldn’t be the BB causing the issue. Has anyone had this problem ? Is this acceptable? My last bike I built was a PF and the cups went in tight. I know this bottoms bracket pulls together but this just doesn’t seem right.
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- Gearjunkie
- Posts: 877
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Hmm, doesn't sound quite right.
My Hawk Racing PF30 BB went into my Fuji SL tight but smoothly with some grease.
My Hawk Racing PF30 BB went into my Fuji SL tight but smoothly with some grease.
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Doesn't sound right. See if you can get some calipers and measure the frame and the BB you got.
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
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I have the PF30OUT on my Fuji and definitely had to use a BB tool to insert it fully the first time. The 2nd time it was much easier. Have you torqued to to the full 50n/m? I'd do that and roll with it for a bit and see how it reacts. I emailed them back and forth on installation and, if I recall correctly, installation should not be super tight. I'll see if I can dig up those emails.Drpoomanchu wrote: ↑Sat Apr 21, 2018 6:25 amI wanted to pick your brains on something I have not run into. I went to install my Wheels Mfg. PF30 BB tonight and after prepping and inserting the drive side per instructions there was relatively no resistance and the BB bottomed out by hand. It’s almost like the cup is out of tolerance. I tried the non-drive side of the bottom bracket in the drive cup with the same results so it shouldn’t be the BB causing the issue. Has anyone had this problem ? Is this acceptable? My last bike I built was a PF and the cups went in tight. I know this bottoms bracket pulls together but this just doesn’t seem right.
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