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I have to strip the paint of the forks and brakes, because the frame is internal brake routing striping the brakes down gives me the chance to rebuild them anyway. One more race next Wednesday and I can strip the old bike down then progress will happen.
Im going to use the headset that came with the frameset, its all made specifically for it and has suuuuper low stack which is great for me! i run a long and low setup so the lower the better! Weight of headset below
Ill use my Tune Gum Gum expander, if you dont have one and are looking for an opinion, ive never had a problem and you really cant argue with the weight
I am a massive fan of Thomson Components, they look fantastic, ive never broken one of their bits, and they are maintenance free. also weight to price ratio is really good. The Stem is a 130mm -17, i want to go to a 140mm and lower but no company produces what i want. The stem i ride is stock apart from Titanium bolts which saved 6gm.
Stock Thomson X2 Bolts
Titanium Bolts (these are also a 4mm hex head instead of a 3mm so i can torque them a little safer)
And total stem weight, i really like the stiffness of the Thomson Stems too
Stock (but cut) seatpost, add another 43gm = 290gm
The tuned seatpost which ended up being 89gm lighter than stock. i didnt buy a masterpeice because of the price, the elite really isnt that much heavier.
Note: When the funds allow ill be buying a combo off Berk. Thatll shave a significant amount of weight!
I needed to strip the old paint off the old fork because it had red on it. The new frame would clash horrendously with this. Ive stripped a whole bunch of frames before so nothing new. typical fork savings are around 20gm in paint alone, not to mention itll get cut even shorter in its final iteration.
Fork with its paint
Fork without its paint
i added a layer of gloss clear after this which only added 3gm, cut the steerer again saved 3gm.
Had a delivery too, Carbon XX brake clamps, these are fantasticly cool. also came with a small bag of Haribo Gummie Bears saved 16gm from stock clamps.
Ive mentioned i use XX1 Cranks before, this is for the direct mount rings and their easy changing and stiff build. Cheap to buy too with lots of sizes available. I use a Stages Power Meter as well, and below ill show you the weight penalty of the power meter.
Stock crankset no chain ring
Left hand stock arm
Stages arm, note the weight penalty is only 24gm. ill sacrifice 24gm any day for the info it gives me.
Ill do a complete weight of the cranks when ive stripped the paint off the drive arm. I wont strip the power meter as itll no doubt void warranty, and im not willing to do that, i will however cover it with custom black XX1 stickers later down the track.
The gear ratio i use most is 36 / 12. Its a gear for flat to very short small climbs. Anything i know is steep or long it gets changed out to a lower gear. 36 / 12 lets me attack the front top riders here and sometimes ride away.
Pictured is an Absolute Black DM Round ring. Ive contacted a local company who produce high end chain rings to ask about a series of custom rings just for me as well, so hopefully in the near future ill have something different. Regardless the Absolute Black is respectably light for a 36T.
Forgot to post with the other post, i run a old Selle Italia SLR saddle. This one is Ti Rails, i broke a carbon rail one before and care to not relive that. This saddle will be retired with the Berk Combo ill eventually order. Funny how Selle Italia Print a weight on the saddle leather which isnt even close to the actual weight.
Thats all the updates i have till my other bits arrive, feel free to ask some questions or offer suggestions
Ordered 650mm Hyperbar from extralite, these things are bloody cool, great weight, but upon riding them they are not hugely stiff. Considering other options at the moment
Extralite Top cap and alloy bolt. Again a really nice product, i brought the cap for the cool factor mainly, and i find you need to tension the headset up with a big beefy cap and then replace one the stems snug. Otherwise i love it.
Hypergrips top off my order, genuinely my favorite grips ever, and i was a big fan of ESI
Driveline stuff, Ultegra chain, shortened up quite a bit. I use them because they are cheap, the weight is "good" but ultimately they are strong, ive never broken one. I dont use the shimano connecting pins either, they suck.
Surly cog, 13T, yeah its not fantastically lifght, but i havent had to replace them monthly in winter like i did with the Shimano DX cogs.
Braking is taken care of by XX Avids. These brakes get a bad wrap, but i got a good set apparently.I like how they work, seem to give me ZERO issues and are plenty strong. These will at some point (probably failure) get replaced with XTR or Piccolo.
Rotors are AVID HSX 160mm front and rear. Replaced soon with Ashima rotors (they just havent arrived yet).
Also a complete crankset shot for you guys. Stages Power meter, and chain ring included
Whipped up some SS spacers, good weight saving over the Surly spacers.
Front wheel weight
Rear wheel weight
So 1294gm wheels all up, which included Stans tape and Specialized tubeless valves. Time will tell if they ride any good.
As for bars give Mt. Zoom a try. I found great reviews on MTBR, but was still a bit sketched, however, they came in on weight target and stiffer/thicker on the ends than MCFK and other brands. 2 or 3 friends have bought them and all loved them as well.
Pretty cool build though- SS MTB is pretty fun.
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