250mm length measured from bottom of the post to the rails. I have 16cm almost exactly from top of the seat clamp to the middle of the rails (following the line of the seatpost). So about 9cm in the frame, which takes it just past the top tube in my estimation.dereksmalls wrote: ↑Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:46 pmSO what was the length of the seatpost and how much is actually sticking out of the frame?
4ibanez's Supersix Evo - 4.29kg (build list in 1st post)
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Even if you long lost the warranty (wonder why4ibanez wrote:250mm length measured from bottom of the post to the rails. I have 16cm almost exactly from top of the seat clamp to the middle of the rails (following the line of the seatpost). So about 9cm in the frame, which takes it just past the top tube in my estimation.dereksmalls wrote: ↑Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:46 pmSO what was the length of the seatpost and how much is actually sticking out of the frame?
), 90mm is the minimum recommended inserted length as per Cannondale. With 16cm out, 90mm is probably conservative but would be a shame to damage the frame being 1cm too ambitious...Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
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Keep a close eye on the details kids! I checked the RD hanger with a magnet while fiddling with the RD, and found the M3 x 12mm bolts that secure it to the frame were steel. A bit of sick almost came up 
Only 1.2g saved... but the cost was negligible. I had a think about whether aluminium was a good idea and decided it was. The skewer holds the hanger in place and it's over the axle anyway. If a crash was gonna snap off the hanger, it's probably better it's held on by aluminium rather than steel, as aluminium is more likely to snap (which is probably a good thing in this case).
Steel
Aluminium
Only 1.2g saved... but the cost was negligible. I had a think about whether aluminium was a good idea and decided it was. The skewer holds the hanger in place and it's over the axle anyway. If a crash was gonna snap off the hanger, it's probably better it's held on by aluminium rather than steel, as aluminium is more likely to snap (which is probably a good thing in this case).
Steel
Love the attention to detail. I missed that on my wife's bike. Every gram counts!!!
BH Ultralight Litespeed Ghisallo Scott Addict Singlespeed_________________
Cannondale Evo HiModFelt AR FRDI've had a horrible week with the bike. After replacing the b-stop on the RD I couldn't get it back together for the life of me. Eventually with 2 people we did it (1 holding the RD and pushing the b-stop down, and me opening the tiny split washer with a stanley knife and pushing it into place). Not worth like 1.3g or whatever!
Then today I had a frickin mare. One of my weenie components (un-tuned) broke. Thankfully it was only 5 minutes from home. Could easily have caused a crash and damaged other parts of the bike (actually pretty lucky that didn't happen on the 40mph road I'd just come onto). Thankfully it happened 3 minutes from home at the end of a ride. Anyway let's see what happens with the after sale care. I won't post all the details, as I want to keep things cool - but really pissed off I won't be able to ride it on my week off and had to vent!
Here's how it was looking. Hopefully it doesn't shake my confidence about uber WW components too much, and I'll be back at it soon. For the timebeing it's the 7kg Tarmac for me!
Then today I had a frickin mare. One of my weenie components (un-tuned) broke. Thankfully it was only 5 minutes from home. Could easily have caused a crash and damaged other parts of the bike (actually pretty lucky that didn't happen on the 40mph road I'd just come onto). Thankfully it happened 3 minutes from home at the end of a ride. Anyway let's see what happens with the after sale care. I won't post all the details, as I want to keep things cool - but really pissed off I won't be able to ride it on my week off and had to vent!
Here's how it was looking. Hopefully it doesn't shake my confidence about uber WW components too much, and I'll be back at it soon. For the timebeing it's the 7kg Tarmac for me!
Last edited by 4ibanez on Sun Apr 15, 2018 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Looks awesome! Some impressive tuning going on there, and a great final weight for such a big bike.
What actually broke? Did I miss it in your post somewhere?
Man I never get bored of looking at this build, it’s increidible!
Sorry about whatever broke, hopefully it gets taken care of by the vendor!
Sorry about whatever broke, hopefully it gets taken care of by the vendor!
Thanks mate - if I ripped the Sprinters off and put on my Records, I'd be another 105gish lighter. But the sprinters are great, so I'll probably just wear the rear out and try with a Record on both wheels for fun. When the rear is knackered I'll probably settle into the planned solution of Sprinter rear and Record front.
Fingers crossed my broken part gets sorted ASAP! Communication can be slow in the bike world, but hopefully they'll send a replacement for the broken parts quickly, as the pics I took for evidence don't look good, I'm well under the weight limit, and I installed the part to the letter! I'd be interested to hear their opinion about why they delaminated, esp where it did. Sorry for being crytpic! I just hope it's a one-off that'll be sorted quickly without trouble. To be fair, the Spesh really should be my training bike anyway!
Good news. Next day reply to my email resolving my issue, so I feel I can talk about it now (although I won't be posting pics on Insta or anything cos that's not very respectful). Anyway I've got 2 new carbon yokes on the way for my seatpost. One of them snapped near the end of a little 30 miler. Hadn't noticed any signs anything was wrong apart from a click about a minute beforehand, which I couldn't place. The other yoke looks mostly ok, but there is now a loose fibre visible on the bridge that joins up the 2 sides, near where the other one snapped. Darimo think it's ok and suggest to keep it as a spare.
It broke as I put some power down moving away from a junction, and my Phoenix saddle with bag attached fell off into the road. Luckily it seems ok, and I didn't get buggered by the post!
Darimo specifies a max of 4nm for the saddle rail, which I didn't get too close to. If you've seen these yokes IRL you'd understand my tentative approach. The bridge across the top of the yoke tapers in in its thickness at the centre, and is reallllly thin. I stopped before 3nm after some pretty horrendous clicking/cracking sounds on the rails (this happened with all 3 seatposts I've used with this saddle). But anyway, in all respects I followed installation to the letter using their supplied paste etc. It's important the yokes are parallel and I was very careful about this.
I wonder if the yokes weren't tight enough though, causing them to slip out of alignment as I put some weight back against the saddle. They didn't give too much info in reply to my email, just apologised and said they'll send some more, which is fine. I've asked them for a recommended minimum torque, but TBH I might just bolt them down to 4nm for max security (it's not a hell of a lot is it?!) and hope they hold. It would be nice to have some more info, as it does affect my confidence in the yoke - I really don't want to be without a seat 40/50 miles from home on a different occasion.
I'm glad they've been quick to get me a replacement lined up without quibble. Hopefully more refinement (weight?) or maybe a minimum torque setting (I'm guessing that was my issue), might solve it.
Edit: Darimo got back to me again. They said just clamp it to 4nm or just shy of that. Obviously that's a bit different to their printed instruction (4nm = max, rather than being the recommended amount).
It broke as I put some power down moving away from a junction, and my Phoenix saddle with bag attached fell off into the road. Luckily it seems ok, and I didn't get buggered by the post!
Darimo specifies a max of 4nm for the saddle rail, which I didn't get too close to. If you've seen these yokes IRL you'd understand my tentative approach. The bridge across the top of the yoke tapers in in its thickness at the centre, and is reallllly thin. I stopped before 3nm after some pretty horrendous clicking/cracking sounds on the rails (this happened with all 3 seatposts I've used with this saddle). But anyway, in all respects I followed installation to the letter using their supplied paste etc. It's important the yokes are parallel and I was very careful about this.
I wonder if the yokes weren't tight enough though, causing them to slip out of alignment as I put some weight back against the saddle. They didn't give too much info in reply to my email, just apologised and said they'll send some more, which is fine. I've asked them for a recommended minimum torque, but TBH I might just bolt them down to 4nm for max security (it's not a hell of a lot is it?!) and hope they hold. It would be nice to have some more info, as it does affect my confidence in the yoke - I really don't want to be without a seat 40/50 miles from home on a different occasion.
I'm glad they've been quick to get me a replacement lined up without quibble. Hopefully more refinement (weight?) or maybe a minimum torque setting (I'm guessing that was my issue), might solve it.
Edit: Darimo got back to me again. They said just clamp it to 4nm or just shy of that. Obviously that's a bit different to their printed instruction (4nm = max, rather than being the recommended amount).
Last edited by 4ibanez on Mon Apr 16, 2018 10:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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campagowlo
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I wonder to what extent darimo are pushing the limit on this post. I've got a smud post at 98 grams and saddle and 68 grams both seem rock solid. No noise and no movement at 4nm.
Ibanez as you say I think more torque is probably your friend. On my online post my POP yokes I have had them rotate and heard a rattle when they loosened it the torque wasn't high (serially adjust front and back and push on front back saddle to let it settle and repeat) . Unlike my alloy yokes the us yokes on the darimo post will have no strength if out of alignment. I had a mcfk seatpost clamp of similar construction ( alloy nuts, ud bands) and after flying with the bike was reinstalling and didn't realize one of the 2 collars had lifted on one side so it was as closing at 10 degrees off perpendicular and it cracked (the lower band that closed at 0 degrees was fine)
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Granted I didn't have as much time on Darimo as you, but I set my wrench to just shy of 4 Nm and I haven't had a problem. But, I'll be sure I keep an eye on things as soon as I have my new frame built up.
Speedplay is the devil!
I'll do exactly the same when the new yokes get here. What are you building up? Let's see some build pics!
Meanwhile the WW machine is out of action and I get a KOM on the 3kg heavier Tarmac on a short hill climb with a sprint at the top that I regularly do 
@4ibanez did you experience any issue fitting your CF shifter clamps to the bar? Were these very tight to pull up the drops?
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