Colnago C60 - Traditional PR99

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c60rider
Posts: 872
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by c60rider

I was using a tiny screwdriver for this job and ended up bending one and snapping another it was so weak. By chance I came across this pick set https://www.parktool.com/product/utilit ... set-up-set and have to say it's brilliant for the c clip job. Magnetised at the opposite end but also really useful for picking out bearing seals.

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cadence90
Posts: 1678
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by cadence90

guyc wrote:
Fri May 18, 2018 7:13 pm
As always Cal it’s a pleasure watching your output come to life on screen.
+1.

I really enjoy and appreciate these posts.
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Thanks guys, I enjoy doing it.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

welchy
Posts: 458
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

Hi Calnago,

Once again coming back to the oracle.

I've sacked of my EDCO wheels on my build and i've no got some new Bora 35 One Tubulars arriving late this week/next week.

Question being tyre size/fitment. I've got an urge to fit Veloflex Vlaanderens sitting at 27C wide and wandering if you have fitted these before to your wheelset/frame?

I was running Conti GP Clinchers measuring 26.8mm and clearance was okay all round. Just wandering if you have had experience of fitting 27C or Vlaanderens?

We are very close in size/weight. I'm 92KG and 189Cm, hoping the Vlaanderens will work well to use on rougher roads and maybe even for Paris Roubaix in April. Still undecided to use my Zondas or Boras for it!

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Hi @welchy... this if for your C60 right? Yes, I have some Vlanderens on some current (AC3) Boras and will say No, there’s simply not the clearance you need to run these in that frame. You say you ran Contis and they were ok, which I’m a little surprised at. Because if they were 25mm 4000sii clinchers on any kind of even slightly wide rim, then the clearance with those is simply too tight for this frame as well in my opinion. Conti Comp 25mm tubulars are just fine however.
I’ve had the Vlanderens for awhile but hardly every use them. Got them to experiment with on the Koppenberg but I simply prefer 25’s on the road. I will be removing the Vlanderens shortly and putting 25’s back on, or in this case, will be trying some of the Specialized S-Works Turbo Tubulars in 26mm, which are pretty equivalent to the Veloflex Arrenberg in 25mm.
Good luck and have fun at Roubaix. I should try to get over there one of these days with my Koppenberg.
Last edited by Calnago on Wed Mar 13, 2019 2:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

welchy
Posts: 458
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

Hi Calnago, thanks a bunch for the informative response as usual.

Yes for the C60, I was running the conti's (25C) on the Edcos for about 350KMs without any real issues (26.8mm), but I would add this was mainly fair weather riding.

I have just measured the Conti GP 4 seasons which are on my Zonda C17 rims, they come at at 26.4mm.

I also put on a Schwalbe Pro One 25C on the Zondas and these measured 26mm exactly.

I think the S works tubulars seem a good shout at 26C, reluctant to go smaller to be honest.

If you see a big unit on a C60 at Roubaix give us a shout!

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Calnago
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by Calnago

welchy wrote:...
I think the S works tubulars seem a good shout at 26C, reluctant to go smaller to be honest.

If you see a big unit on a C60 at Roubaix give us a shout!
Even though the S-Works are labeled 26mm, they’re really no different sizewise than the 25mm Arrenberg. And I’m not sure about their durability yet, but I suspect similar to Arrenberg. Arrenberg is 295-300g. S-Works is 290-295g.
Likewise, if you see a “big unit” on a Campy equipped Koppenberg...
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Visus
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2018 1:43 pm

by Visus

I have a question regarding how you cut your forks:

In your post (viewtopic.php?f=10&t=142391&start=30#p1274081) you have shown an extremely neat cut. What cutting blade do you use? A regular 32tpi bi-metal blade (intended for cuting aluminium) or a carbide carbon-specific blade?
And do you finish your cut in one step or do you cut until the middle and then start from the other side? Ever had an issue with carbonsplintering?

I ask because i used to use a tungsten carbide blade but you can't cut very thin slices as the blade is very thick (you wrote somewhere you can cut 2mm slices?) Never used a 32tpi blade an fear i may splinter/delaminate the edge of my cut.

Thank you

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Calnago
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by Calnago

@Visus: Thanks for noticing. I found that a 24tooth good quality blade and hacksaw works best. I've tried 32tooth, but it was too fine and seemed to take forever. I got some of the carbon specific blades once, and still have them. They looked like they're all coated with something and I remember wondering if I was somehow supposed to remove that "coating" first. Because as they come, they don't even fit into the slot on my cutting guide. I just finish the cut all the way through, with essentially no pressure on the blade at the final stages. I suppose you could wrap the area to be cut with masking tape to help prevent it, but I never do. I mark it when it's on the bike with all spacers etc., I have a great cutting guide, which is basically a chunk of steel made by VAR and fits into a bench vise. Comes with several steel collars for various size steertubes. With this I can cut a slice less than 1mm thick, but the kerf of the blade itself is 1mm, so aside from just creating some dust with a bit of a shave, I could actually come away with a carbon ring that is 0.5-1.0mm in thickness.

The basic tools...
Image

The slice of carbon, up agsint the blade for scale...
Image

My preferred blade (24 tooth)... and the unused tungsten carbide blades which won't fit into my VAR guide anyway...
Image

Oh, and I don't think I ever actually showed how I finally ended up with my C60. After much trial and error with different setups, I finally went back to my trusty Deda Zero 100, -8 degree, 130mm stem, with the drops of the bars parraellel to the angle of the stem, not the ground or the top tube. It's funny, because the last iteration I showed was with a -17 degree Pro-Vibe stem, and the drops were also parrallel to the stem, which made everything horizontal. I had actually forgotten that back in the day of quill stems, I still always liked a bit of a more natural angle at the drops, rather than having to cock my wrist forward which is the case if they are perfectly parallel to the ground. Many preferred the slightly angled setup, even though the horizontal look was what you'd usually see in the catalogs.

My final answer... Deda Zero 100 stem, 130mm, -8 degree; 8mm carbon spacer above the headset cover, and a 3mm red alloy spacer, just for interest. 5mm spacer above the stem...
Image
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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cadence90
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by cadence90

Calnago, you really are a fantastic contributor to this forum.
Yet another extremely clear explanation, and as always supported by wonderful photographs.
Bravissimo.
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Thanks @cadence90... a lot of the questions on here I had myself at one time. This steertube cutting, what blade to use, etc. the fear of messing up, all of it. That was certainly one. For the one right answer you might find on the Internet, it was sometimes easier to find 10 wrong ones, or incomplete ones. I try to explain things beyond a simple “Do it this way and don’t ask why” kind of thing. So I appreciate your kudos. Thanks again.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

ND4SPD
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Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 4:10 am

by ND4SPD

Great colour, great build, great bike :)

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guyc
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Location: Hampshire, England
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by guyc

Don’t be nice to him. He’s responsible for my spending over the last 12 months and is a very bad man.

ND4SPD
Posts: 168
Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 4:10 am

by ND4SPD

guyc wrote:
Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:21 pm
Don’t be nice to him. He’s responsible for my spending over the last 12 months and is a very bad man.
:-D :-D :-D

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cadence90
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by cadence90

guyc wrote:
Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:21 pm
Don’t be nice to him. He’s responsible for my spending over the last 12 months and is a very bad man.
Unbelievable. The gall of the guy, to just be spending other people's hard-earned money like that, willy-nilly....

I am very sorry to have read of your situation, really. I truly cannot imagine the intolerable pain and suffering you must have gone through over the past year, to have been forced so rudely and irresponsibly by Calnago to go buy yourself your very own Colnago, and a C64 PKWH to boot! The guy really metes out the pain in a big way, full bore, does he not?

Now, please do understand that when I say "I cannot imagine" what I really mean is "I cannot afford".
That's how I solve my Calnago-caused problemos!

:lol: :mrgreen: :P
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



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