Hongfu FM079
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Inspired to do this as well!
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Did a second hood too.
Before weight, without clamp: Hood only: This time I used a single layer of food wrap and a layer of Scotch tape: Deals on food vaccum bags (0.5USD for a pair) and a pump (0.75USD) served as a good reason to ride my other bike. Since Xshifter has died, it only has a single gear, last time I rode single speed (Velta Kama, used to be very popular here) was 20 years ago as a middle school student. The cut pattern was modified: extra material removed, marked area where to place the lever for a proper wrap. Resin applied and vacuum sealed. Really love how neatly the bag pushes the cloth in, but in the end it ended as a failure. Like before, the resin was left to cure overnight, when I opened the bag I found it was still wet! Another 12 hours later, nothing changed, but the cloth at least stayed in place and didn't slide off, so I sprayed more resin on, wrapped the lever in food wrap and left for another night, which did the job. Next morning I spent more than an hour peeling the wrap off, I decided to remove all of it and the result turned out much better looking than the first hood. Some resin leaked under the first wrap layer and had to be peeled of the lever too, at least none got into the master cylinder bore. Scotch tape was easier to remove from the inner surface compared to food wrap.
Before weight, without clamp: Hood only: This time I used a single layer of food wrap and a layer of Scotch tape: Deals on food vaccum bags (0.5USD for a pair) and a pump (0.75USD) served as a good reason to ride my other bike. Since Xshifter has died, it only has a single gear, last time I rode single speed (Velta Kama, used to be very popular here) was 20 years ago as a middle school student. The cut pattern was modified: extra material removed, marked area where to place the lever for a proper wrap. Resin applied and vacuum sealed. Really love how neatly the bag pushes the cloth in, but in the end it ended as a failure. Like before, the resin was left to cure overnight, when I opened the bag I found it was still wet! Another 12 hours later, nothing changed, but the cloth at least stayed in place and didn't slide off, so I sprayed more resin on, wrapped the lever in food wrap and left for another night, which did the job. Next morning I spent more than an hour peeling the wrap off, I decided to remove all of it and the result turned out much better looking than the first hood. Some resin leaked under the first wrap layer and had to be peeled of the lever too, at least none got into the master cylinder bore. Scotch tape was easier to remove from the inner surface compared to food wrap.
I expected for second hood to be heavier since I tried to use more resin, but even after multiple fix ups it came out slightly lighter. Probably because the wrap had less exposed fibers and no extra cloth patches.
Takeaways:
1. A single base food wrap might cause leaks, wrap the lever at least twice.
2. Liquid resin (at least the brand I used) does not cure in a vacuum bag in room temperature.
3. Scotch tape over base wrap was a good idea.
4. Tight Scotch tape was not enough to prevent pits. If I were to do another hood, I'd fill the cavities with dense material.
5. Extra CF cloth increases weight, try to do the whole lever in a single cloth layer. This seems to match The Climb blog series, where two layers of CF yielded hoods twice as heavy as mine.
On a bike, it looks rather ghetto, especially when paired with used cloth tape.
Will test it later after the wheels are rebuilt and a bleed job.
Takeaways:
1. A single base food wrap might cause leaks, wrap the lever at least twice.
2. Liquid resin (at least the brand I used) does not cure in a vacuum bag in room temperature.
3. Scotch tape over base wrap was a good idea.
4. Tight Scotch tape was not enough to prevent pits. If I were to do another hood, I'd fill the cavities with dense material.
5. Extra CF cloth increases weight, try to do the whole lever in a single cloth layer. This seems to match The Climb blog series, where two layers of CF yielded hoods twice as heavy as mine.
Great job on the custom carbon hoods! Do you plan on giving it a clear coat to protect it? Or no to save some weight? I know wrapping in real carbon is no easy task. A buddy of mine made me a few parts on my car in carbon from sctratch very tedious process. Can't wait for more updates!
Masi 3VC SL
S-Works SL7
Supersix Evo HM Black INC
S-Works SL7
Supersix Evo HM Black INC
Not sure a UV protection layer is necessary in my case, as far as I understand, it's the epoxy that requires protection, not the CF cloth itself. Since the hoods use liquid resin (resin in solvent that evaporates), there's no epoxy to protect from UV. I suppose the resin can degrade under direct sunlight and over time, especially when covered in sweat, in which case I can always make more hoods or put a fresh coat of resin. These are very cheap to make, I have enough material for at least three pairs.
Off by 10g from the spreadsheet, but I suppose 1098g is good enough.
Wow!!!! Those hoods are awesome. Thank you for the detailed write up. Those are huge weight savings. Let us know how they work out.
BH Ultralight
Litespeed Ghisallo
Scott Addict Singlespeed
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Cannondale Evo HiMod
Felt AR FRD
Litespeed Ghisallo
Scott Addict Singlespeed
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Cannondale Evo HiMod
Felt AR FRD
~20g off from the spreadsheet. Maybe it's time to add "grease and air" to it? Do you guys think 11-26 cassette would be considered as cheating? With remaining upgrades done (probably early next year), I can put the XG1190 on, remove the computer (30g) and source some Aerolites for sub-5kg disc build photos, but probably won't ride the bike in that setup much (especially during winter).
Regarding the DIY hood: one strip of tape held it in place only for a handful of rides in hot weather. I barely touch the hoods anyway, so not a very robust solution. For now, I did two wraps of tape, let's see how long it will hold, but going this way I can just remove the hood and wrap whole lever in tape.
Regarding the DIY hood: one strip of tape held it in place only for a handful of rides in hot weather. I barely touch the hoods anyway, so not a very robust solution. For now, I did two wraps of tape, let's see how long it will hold, but going this way I can just remove the hood and wrap whole lever in tape.
Unlike SM-BCR2 from this video, BT-DN110 uses glue instead of clips to hold the case, so you'd either have to cut it off or unglue it somehow. Batteries are 570mAh 3.7 Li-ion, I'm going to order 14250 size 300mAh as replacements. The junction is lighter than claimed, but wires were heavier than I expected, about 10g per meter.
Will take a while longer, for some reason I assumed the junction A accepts a USB instead of a proprietary connector. And totally not looking forward to another bleed
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