Hongfu FM079
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
1. On Vumaquad with a FibreLyte 1x chainring, I experienced two chain drops in about 3000km. One was my fault - changed to a 9t over a road bump, the other happened for no apparent reason. Good enough for me.
2. The narrow-wide Stone chainring I've been using since September on trainer (~2k) and road (~1000km) was flawless. Good product, but heavy.
Without the clutch, the chain rattles around, I forgot how silent my MTB was in comparison. If clutched DA for a penalty of ~30g was available, I'd strongly consider it, maybe 9200 will make this happen.
By the way, welcome to WW, don't hesitate to share your clutched RD builds
The BBInfinite has been lying around 1.5 years, now I finally managed to weigh it, the whole assembly is heavier than expected: 59.5g for the cups (58g claimed) and 3.56g for shields and wavy washer (omitted from the official weight). Did not install the cranks yet, only had enough free time to remove the FC-5700, clean it and put the chainring onto the Clavicula SE.
- Attachments
-
- FibreLyte chainring tabs weight, 5pcs
-
- FibreLyte 38t lightweight 2 1x chainring weight
-
- KCNC chainring bolts weight, 5pcs
-
- BBInfinite BSA30 UL Ceramitech cups weight
-
- BBInfinite BSA30 UL Ceramitech shields weight, 2pcs
-
- BBInfinite BSA30 UL Ceramitech wavy washer weight
-
- BBInfinite BSA30 UL Ceramitech 0.5 washers weight, 2pcs
-
Stock ST-R9170 hose flare nut:
Same, but custom made in aluminium:
No idea how the custom nuts will work, it's a gamble.
M6 to M8 hose adapter for Hope calipers, aluminium:
No idea how much stock weighs.
M8 aluminium hose nuts:
These might be too long to fit the front, will assemble later and cut down as needed. Kudos to @joejack951 for sharing the link to these.
- Shimano Y8RD98010 weight, 1pc, stock
M6 to M8 hose adapter for Hope calipers, aluminium:
M8 aluminium hose nuts:
Yeah, this came to my mind too, will try it out and report. I have four olive flavors, the rightmost (with a cut) are what I tried. Not sure which ones are Shimano after everything got mixed up.andreszucs wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:23 pmJust came across an idea if the problem persists: maybe a tinny cut on the back of the olive, just like a seat tube frame has a cut to ‘bite’ a seat post, you could try using a dremmel and a super thin cutter.
Well, the hose is retained, but only because the bar is wider than the olive opening. My main concern is that with a smaller diameter, the hose is free to rattle inside the shroud which can potentially lead to a gap between the gap and caliper/lever, resulting in a leak.andreszucs wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:09 pmSomehow it worked on first attempt, I believe I used a shimano olive. I didn’t see any leaks after several rides so I didn’t touch anymore!
Are you trying to install it right now?
Thankfully, no. Hope RX-4 require an additional adapter between the caliper and hose, and I have spares, so I bolted everything dry.
The hose modification is on pause, waiting for 4mm ID olives to arrive, afterwards I'll try to arrange 4mm ID flare nuts for both front and rear. Meanwhile, here's the bike with new parts fitted (Clavicula SE, Scrub rotor, Darimo mount), spreadsheet weight of 5128g and 5.14kg according to scales. Should be 5084g with Rico de Wert's pedals. Not too bad, I guess.
With too many orders to handle, the CNC shop was not able to deliver the second custom front mount iteration in a timely manner, so I purchased a Darimo, for much more bucks. Going from the Cateye Strada Slim computer to a phone saved ~8g: 69g stem and 30g computer with sensor vs 65g stem, 13g mount, 14g sensors. And I have a cadence sensor now compared to speed only before. This also includes four hollow Ti bolts from TitaniumPlanet, these are compatible with Darimo IX2 and IX2.
Here's how the bike looked when I just assembled it in 2015 (~8kg). The only parts to remain in the build list since then are the frame, rear rotor (anyone got a Scrub Workhorse in 140mm?) and a headset bearing wedge.
- Klaster_1's Hongfu FM079 (22.07.2021)
- Klaster_1's Hongfu FM079 weight, 5128 gram (22.07.2021)
- Darimo out front mount, long, Garmin
Well, I only had a couple of very short rides, but after bedding in, the stopping force is not much different from Ashima, at least I can't tell much difference. Note that my local area is super flat, so anything will do. It used to scream like a banshee during the first ride, but settled down a bit afterward. The rotor was a NOS from eBay and cost me about 120USD including shipping to Russia. Honestly, I did not expect to ever purchase one, the eBay search yielded nothing for the prior two years. These do not exist indeed. There's a 180mm one available if anyone's interested.
The method I used to fix the battery in the seatpost turned out not very reliable. Even though the battery feels hard to move with fingers, it nevertheless slipped and fell down the seat tube, breaking a cell wire joint in the process. I had to complete a 100km+ ride in a single gear, but it went surprisingly well given the flat terrain and the appropriate ratio the derailleur was at the time. Removing the battery from the seat tube was really, really hard, the bottom bracket area has no holes to push a rod through, I had to tie two J-spokes together to function as a hook. When putting the battery back, this time I put on an additional safety measure: a thread that hangs from the seat post rod and loops around the battery, fixed in position with sticky tape.
- Attachments
-
-
It's a drag losing power mid ride. Though your new solution could work, the thread and tape feels a bit weak. Friction seems to be the typical solution for most battery holders that come with framesets. As long as the friction is high enough and it doesn't loosen up over time, they seem to work. For DIY-ers, I prefer the pin and drill method. This method has never failed me. Take a 1-2mm pin, like a small nail and cut the head off. Get a drill slightly thicker than the nail and drill through your seatpost near the bottom edge. It's easier to drill perpendicular when starting but you want to go at an angle so the pin does not intersect the power plug. Put the pin in the hole and mark the length so it can go into the seat tube. Cut it to length and that's it. Wrap the battery with packing foam so it doesn't rattle around and you should be good to go. The pin is trapped inside the seat tube so it can't come out.
@takolino that's a solid idea, thanks for sharing! I will strongly consider it if the current approach proves insufficient.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
